6 pawls, easily serviceable, readily available spares. Yeah, the "high-end" Novatec hubs are bomb proof and good value.Do they exist?
Conversely, these days unfortunately no longer exist.I remember the good ol days when you could put Stans Rims, Hope Hubs and DT spokes into your CRC cart for under $400AUD and type "Build my wheels" in the comments and about a week later they'd arrive
Which is also what come with the Trail Wide wheels.6 pawls, easily serviceable, readily available spares. Yeah, the "high-end" Novatec hubs are bomb proof and good value.
Yep, that was my point above. The XLR8 quote you got is for essentially the same spec as the Hunts - Novatec 6 pawl hubs, mid-range spokes and a value-focussed rim. The XLR8 comes through with the brass nipples which is nice, but given the Hunts are cheaper, have the wider rim, and have the crash replacement discount etc they still win out in my eyes.Which is also what come with the Trail Wide wheels.
Have to agree with this. I have a feeling you've just circled around to the Hunts.Yep, that was my point above. The XLR8 quote you got is for essentially the same spec as the Hunts - Novatec 6 pawl hubs, mid-range spokes and a value-focussed rim. The XLR8 comes through with the brass nipples which is nice, but given the Hunts are cheaper, have the wider rim, and have the crash replacement discount etc they still win out in my eyes.
Old wives tale, I'll back the 54t 100%. My xmc1200 wheelset, 240 hub with 54t has done easy over 10,000k's of abuse. The rest is true..Dt 240s are light and expensive. The star ratchet system has limited poe and can be fragile with the 54t ratchet. The bazillion endcaps for different driver and axle configurations is a nuisance and spares are expensive. Special tools to remove the drive ring and snap ring are a nuisance too.
I do believe I have hahaHave to agree with this. I have a feeling you've just circled around to the Hunts.
My apologies, thought the CX-Rays were optimal, but have since found they are bladed. Don't know why they don't offer Race as an option as they would be a better option than D-Light for a whole 56g penalty.That screenshot is the last step before payment so yes, I did. I specced the entire wheelset. Not sure what spokes you were looking at...
Kinda moot for a bloke in Cairns...Hunts won’t be a quick trip back to a local guy to service/tweak if required.
I’d say go the local XLR8 keep a job in Australia support the economy and get the benefit of local support. It really is a small price to pay for a very similar spec’d wheels..
True, send me the extra $250 and I'll go with the Spank Oozy specced wheels.I’d say go the local XLR8 keep a job in Australia support the economy and get the benefit of local support. It really is a small price to pay for a very similar spec’d wheels..
Considered building your own?True, send me the extra $250 and I'll go with the Spank Oozy specced wheels.
Nope.Considered building your own?
I didn't realise this either, the CX Rays are light but a pain in the ass because of the 'twanging' where the blades cross. I have no idea why so many people rate them for mtb use, I'm sure they are fine on the road with 50mm deep carbon rims.My apologies, thought the CX-Rays were optimal, but have since found they are bladed. Don't know why they don't offer Race as an option as they would be a better option than D-Light for a whole 56g penalty.
In what situations do they "twang"? I have long been tempted to try bladed spokes for an MTB wheel build. The last wheel (front) I had built with stiffer spokes, and I love the stiffness under brakes, but there is a reduction in lateral flex and (possibly, might be in my head) edge grip feel. I wondered if bladed spokes could give a best of both worlds feel...I didn't realise this either, the CX Rays are light but a pain in the ass because of the 'twanging' where the blades cross. I have no idea why so many people rate them for mtb use, I'm sure they are fine on the road with 50mm deep carbon rims.
Why not solder the spokes at cross over points?The front isn't too bad, it only twangs occasionally but the rear is like having spokey dokeys on a hard climb.
I sent them back to Astro to find a solution and he used some small bits of rubber in between the spokes (tension was fine) but they've all fallen out again. I'm considering using some DR25 heatshrink as a more permanent solution, or just getting proper spokes.