Where to get larger quantitities of Dot 5.1 cheap and is there much difference in quality

[link1896]

Nathan, I cannot feel a performance difference between Supercheap Auto’s $15 5.1 fluid and bendix or castrol’s 5.1 premium stuff. Can you?

One of the old photography home development tricks for air sensitive fluids is to drop marbles in your container as you use it to get the fluid level back to the top, squeeze the container to get the fluid to the very brim and put the lid back on.

 

[Dales Cannon]

As long as the fluid meets or exceeds the required standards dont worry it will be fine. You can get a moisture tester for not much $. As Mark says lots of options to reduce exposure to moisture. I spent a chunk of the afternoon atop a step ladder topping up a '78 mini mastercylinder reservoir. Only washed my hands 400 times so the stench lingers. And I can also smell brake fluid.

 

[cokeonspecialtwodollars]

One of the old photography home development tricks for air sensitive fluids is to drop marbles in your container as you use it to get the fluid level back to the top, squeeze the container to get the fluid to the very brim and put the lid back on.

So here I was thinking that I'd really lost mine only to find out that they're in your developer container.

 

[pink poodle]

Could make for an interesting mess.

 

[Calvin27]

Not necessarily but I always like to go higher than recommended.

Not sure of the science on this. But when I was tracking my car, I used pretty good stuff for the brake fluid - RBF660. Decided to use that stuff on my normal car that saw no track use. One of the issues I found with using that stuff for the daily is that it doesn't actually last that long. Great for very high temp stuff, but horrible time wise. Might be better to go to dot 4 for a bike. The temps aren't that hot and longevity is a bigger issue for you it sounds like.

 

[Flow-Rider]

Not sure of the science on this. But when I was tracking my car, I used pretty good stuff for the brake fluid - RBF660. Decided to use that stuff on my normal car that saw no track use. One of the issues I found with using that stuff for the daily is that it doesn't actually last that long. Great for very high temp stuff, but horrible time wise. Might be better to go to dot 4 for a bike. The temps aren't that hot and longevity is a bigger issue for you it sounds like.

I wonder if anyone has experienced brake fade on a mountian bike? I've done some 75km/h descents on the road with 160mm rotors and never experienced it. The 5.1 has quite a higher boiling point.

Not sure what they charge for delivery to the apple isle but this seems to be fairly cheap, might be worth getting a few bottles.

https://www.automegastore.com.au/ca...wodxyTaaktVo3jqi-Icw_tWDbbYFV1HgaAjQDEALw_wcB

 

[hellmansam]

I unfortunately go through a decent amount of dot 5.1 fluid

Why/how do you go through so much brake fluid ?

 

[Dales Cannon]

Why/how do you go through so much brake fluid ?

Vodka alternative.

 

[ozzybmx]

I wonder if anyone has experienced brake fade on a mountian bike? I've done some 75km/h descents on the road with 160mm rotors and never experienced it. The 5.1 has quite a higher boiling point.

XC bike down a rutted hiking trail about 4-5yrs ago, I was like WTF! my bike is not slowing down, at 20kph increasing, I had flashes of bail, bail, bail ! Then too late and held on for dear life, I got to the flat at the bottom doing about 45kph with shitty pants.

Trek Superfly with XTR M9020 circa 2016 brakes and 160mm rotors. So mineral oil.

Drop/climb is about 30% average with 147m over 500m. There's a gentle drop to the bend then 35% gradient on the main straight.

I never experienced it in the slightest ever before - its the real deal !

 

[ozzybmx]

Why/how do you go through so much brake fluid ?

Tinkering with older bikes and older brakes probably.

I used to go through 5-6L of sealant a year when I had 2 boys smashing tyres every week.

Now my 946ml of Stans is going out of date

 

[Calvin27]

I wonder if anyone has experienced brake fade on a mountian bike?

Rode up baw baw with a mate. Me on road bike, him on mtb. My brakes faded and cooked, had to stop twice. He was on a mtb with 200mm rotors, and they seemed ok. I think road loads are higher than mtb and mtb rotors are also bigger so more heat capacity.

Have since done with ice tech everything and it's been all good.

Why/how do you go through so much brake fluid ?

#sramlife

 

[pink poodle]

Why/how do you go through so much brake fluid ?

If you have never used it for a personal or interpersonal lubricant you wouldn't understand.

 

[Flow-Rider]

Rode up baw baw with a mate. Me on road bike, him on mtb. My brakes faded and cooked, had to stop twice. He was on a mtb with 200mm rotors, and they seemed ok. I think road loads are higher than mtb and mtb rotors are also bigger so more heat capacity.

Have since done with ice tech everything and it's been all good.



#sramlife

I just have an MTB hardtail rigid with slicks for the road, and I get a fair bit of cars pulling out in front of me on downhill runs but the brakes seem to hold up.

The only real brake failure I've experienced was when I tried sintered brake pads and the rotors started to sing so badly that the pads were bouncing off the rotor, I was able to alternate between front and rear enough to pull up, but it didn't heat the fluid bad enough to lose the brake lever pressure.

 

[Calvin27]

but it didn't heat the fluid bad enough to lose the brake lever pressure.

Oh how could I forget. A younger and dumber version of me tackling black runs as a rookie in queenstown on a hire bike. Did one run bought the bike back for a bleed, the bike shop guy just laughed at me. Front was cooked, levers to bar, rear got me back to the shop lol.

 

[Haakon]

I wonder if anyone has experienced brake fade on a mountian bike? I've done some 75km/h descents on the road with 160mm rotors and never experienced it. The 5.1 has quite a higher boiling point.

Not sure what they charge for delivery to the apple isle but this seems to be fairly cheap, might be worth getting a few bottles.

https://www.automegastore.com.au/ca...wodxyTaaktVo3jqi-Icw_tWDbbYFV1HgaAjQDEALw_wcB

Ive had fade and a quite sudden lack of brakes with an old Avid BB7, so it does happen. Have come close a few times on the roadie dragging the rear brake down looooooong descents like Mt Wellington, but they start howling like a bastard before they go so I know to get off them and let the front do more work for a bit.

I do keep it in mind on long descents on the roadie, and make sure im only beating on one brake at a time - dont want to fry both at once!

 

[Flow-Rider]

Oh how could I forget. A younger and dumber version of me tackling black runs as a rookie in queenstown on a hire bike. Did one run bought the bike back for a bleed, the bike shop guy just laughed at me. Front was cooked, levers to bar, rear got me back to the shop lol.

A butt clenching moment .

 

[Flow-Rider]

Ive had fade and a quite sudden lack of brakes with an old Avid BB7, so it does happen. Have come close a few times on the roadie dragging the rear brake down looooooong descents like Mt Wellington, but they start howling like a bastard before they go so I know to get off them and let the front do more work for a bit.

I do keep it in mind on long descents on the roadie, and make sure im only beating on one brake at a time - dont want to fry both at once!

Mechanical fade of the pads is a bit different from fluid fade though, I can make rotors go black and blue but I don't drag brakes long enough to cause fluid fade, there's just nothing really that long and steep at my local trails.

 

[Haakon]

Mechanical fade of the pads is a bit different from fluid fade though, I can make rotors go black and blue but I don't drag brakes long enough to cause fluid fade, there's just nothing really that long and steep at my local trails.

I understand the difference, but I think on bike brakes you'll be getting pad fade (ie off gassing of the pad material to the point it creates an air gap...) long before you boil the fluid. Especially with plastic/composite pistons that wont transfer heat.

So the fluid spec is a bit of a non issue - you'll be crashing for other reasons before boiling it.

 

[Calvin27]

but I think on bike brakes you'll be getting pad fade (ie off gassing of the pad material to the point it creates an air gap...) long before you boil the fluid.

This might be true for clean and bled systems imo but not stuff that might be up for a bleed/service. Having said that I rekon most modern stuff should be pretty good. We seem to have gotten to a point where heat management is under control.

 

[Flow-Rider]

I understand the difference, but I think on bike brakes you'll be getting pad fade (ie off gassing of the pad material to the point it creates an air gap...) long before you boil the fluid. Especially with plastic/composite pistons that wont transfer heat.

So the fluid spec is a bit of a non issue - you'll be crashing for other reasons before boiling it.

I'd say you could get there with extreme conditions and bad fluid, the wet boiling point is 155C for Dot4.