Wheel Build Advice Thread

shiny

Go-go-gadget-wrist-thingy
The logo alignment can be a bit tough to get first time.

I screwed in the nipples till the top of the spoke thread can't be seen. I lined up the first round and then did the clockwise twist that is done after the second round, according to Park, and checked.

About 1/4 of the hub to the left of the keyspoke according to the Park guy but the rims I have are asymmetric and the key spoke is about 2 spoke holes further to the left. I guess YMMV and took me some time to nail that.......but you have to do it :)

The trail gods watch for these sorts of things and we don't upset them, ever......
Never upset trail gods with misaligned logos. I put a couple of the under spokes in and rechecked the valve and was off as had rotated the wrong way. Glad I double checked.
 

Mr Crudley

Glock in your sock
Never upset trail gods with misaligned logos. I put a couple of the under spokes in and rechecked the valve and was off as had rotated the wrong way. Glad I double checked.
It is one of those things that you go to all of that effort and if it isn't right then you have to strip it and start again :)

It is a one of those can't be unseen details that you can quietly drive yourself crazy.
 

shiny

Go-go-gadget-wrist-thingy
It is one of those things that you go to all of that effort and if it isn't right then you have to strip it and start again :)

It is a one of those can't be unseen details that you can quietly drive yourself crazy.
Agree. Still annoys me the Hope logo faces backwards but I can’t change that.
 

The Duckmeister

Has a juicy midrange
Is there any logic to building the wheel with external spoke pointing away or toward the direction of rotation? (I know that second picture is 2-cross but it demonstrates what I mean)
The theory is that the "pulling" spokes, which are the major ones for transferring drive or brake force from the hub to the rim are better supported by the respective hub flange if laced outward (heads in). The pulling spokes for drive loading angle rearward off the hub relative to rotation, while the on the brake side, the force is opposite, so the pulling/external spokes angle forward. On wheels that only take one torque force, i.e. non-disc rear or disc-brake front, it's common to have the external spokes angled the same way on both sides.

In the real world, there is probably no discernible difference in build strength going either way.
 

The Duckmeister

Has a juicy midrange
Agree. Still annoys me the Hope logo faces backwards but I can’t change that.
DT Swiss put their front hub logos on arse-about.

The correct logo orientaion is so it can be read right-way-up from the rider's viewpoint, or if it wraps around the hub shell, from the drive side.

If really properly aligned, the centre of the hub logo will not align exactly between two spoke holes on one flange, but very slightly biased to the left. When you've determined your logo centre, count one more hole than your number of lacing crosses to the left (e.g. 3x, go to the 4th hole, 2x go three holes). Drop a spoke through the chosen hole so it's head out, and lace it to the rim hole immediately to the left of the valve hole. Then from your reference point, go the same number of holes to the right, then lace your spoke up (head in) and to the second hole to the right of the valve. Alternatively, counting your prime spoke as 1, you can just count around to the 6th hole for 2x or 8th for 3x; same result either way. Then work your way around closing the gaps.

The most common thing to fuck up is getting the second side prime spoke in the correct hole. The things to keep in mind are that the flange holes are not directly opposite, but offset, so a spoke dropped through one side will hit the opposite flange between two holes; and which spoke was your second starter on the first side of the wheel (which with the wheel now flipped will the second to the left of the valve hole). Find the hole that falls immediately to the right of that spoke, then lace up to the rim hole to the left of the valve. Then repeat the pattern from the first side to fill the gaps.
 
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komdotkom

Likes Bikes and Dirt
What's the current hotness for aluminium rims? I'm a carbon rim guy and give no fucks for aluminium rims, but my son the vandal could break anything so what's the consensus for enduro spec alloy rims? He's most of the way through ruining his current rear rim so I'm going to add some rims to my next order from the germans. EX471?
 

shiny

Go-go-gadget-wrist-thingy
What's the current hotness for aluminium rims? I'm a carbon rim guy and give no fucks for aluminium rims, but my son the vandal could break anything so what's the consensus for enduro spec alloy rims? He's most of the way through ruining his current rear rim so I'm going to add some rims to my next order from the germans. EX471?
I think @ozzybmx built some 511s for his vandals um sons, think they are holding up.
 

Oddjob

Merry fucking Xmas to you assholes
What's the current hotness for aluminium rims? I'm a carbon rim guy and give no fucks for aluminium rims, but my son the vandal could break anything so what's the consensus for enduro spec alloy rims? He's most of the way through ruining his current rear rim so I'm going to add some rims to my next order from the germans. EX471?
Ex471/511 for regular vandals.

Fr560 for heavy vandals.

Newman Evolutions if your son has fine taste in german things.

Sent from my M2012K11AG using Tapatalk
 
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shiny

Go-go-gadget-wrist-thingy
I'm happy now and done with tensioning and tweaking. Might need a bit more love after a few rides but see how it goes. They built up really nicely.

Now to find dry trails which is the harder thing to find lately.View attachment 389671
Looks great! Laced up my front wheel the other night but have gone wrong somewhere. Will start over but the rear is good just need to tension and true.
 

Mr Crudley

Glock in your sock
Looks great! Laced up my front wheel the other night but have gone wrong somewhere. Will start over but the rear is good just need to tension and true.
Thank you sir.

It is easy to miss something since we are occasional wheel builders at best. You will find it and there will be a self head slap :)
 

ozzybmx

taking a shit with my boobs out
Looks great! Laced up my front wheel the other night but have gone wrong somewhere. Will start over but the rear is good just need to tension and true.
Might be your 3 crossing ?

You can have my wheelbuilding stuff if you need it.
 

shiny

Go-go-gadget-wrist-thingy
Might be your 3 crossing ?

You can have my wheelbuilding stuff if you need it.
Cheers, will re-lace this week hopefully, only time at the moment is when kids are in bed and still they come out and interrupt. I am wheel building, shoo! :p Then will borrow your gear and see how much of a mess I make tensioning and dishing.

Thank you sir.

It is easy to miss something since we are occasional wheel builders at best. You will find it and there will be a self head slap :)
Yup, I think I went wrong on the over over under as @ozzybmx said also missing a couple nipple washers and cannot find where I put the second bag….
 

ozzybmx

taking a shit with my boobs out
Then will borrow your gear and see how much of a mess I make tensioning and dishing.
Grab it anytime, I have no plans to use it... err GESA at Fox Creek today... hold on :p

In the first several years of building, it was not uncommon for me to go grab a previously built wheel for reference. I don't have to do it these days but it took quite long time to make sure I got the gaps in the right places, hub logo aligned with the valve hole and the wheel sewn up correctly.
I start with my key spoke in the same spot each time, once it's in place, it dictates the rest of the build. It's an inside spoke on the left of the valve hole positioned about 10 o'clock so the hub logo is visible through the valve hole.
 

Mr Crudley

Glock in your sock
On the other hand, what's the hotness in carbon rims from the likes of Light Bicycle and other Chinese mfrs these days ?
I heard good things about the Light Bicycle rims and know someone that has built them up and loved them.

The pricing is fair and they seem to have them sorted. I didn't want wanker wheels with proprietary spokes or nipples either.

I have the AM730 rims here. I suspect with my nancy riding and lack of dry trails right now to give them a decent belting then they will last for forever :)
https://www.lightbicycle.com/AM730-asymmetric-rim-profile-carbon-650b-carbon-rims-mtb.html
 

shiny

Go-go-gadget-wrist-thingy
Grab it anytime, I have no plans to use it... err GESA at Fox Creek today... hold on :p

In the first several years of building, it was not uncommon for me to go grab a previously built wheel for reference. I don't have to do it these days but it took quite long time to make sure I got the gaps in the right places, hub logo aligned with the valve hole and the wheel sewn up correctly.
I start with my key spoke in the same spot each time, once it's in place, it dictates the rest of the build. It's an inside spoke on the left of the valve hole positioned about 10 o'clock so the hub logo is visible through the valve hole.
Cheers. Reckon the first wheel was beginners luck and then gave me too much confidence for the front and stuffed it. Watching a few videos on dish and tension. Looks to be a test in patience.
 
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