Wheel Build Advice Thread

[PJO]

@ozzybmx is your tension up to the same level when you finish a wheel now compared to a few builds ago? Tension meter could need recalibration?
Well tensioned spokes shouldn't need anything to hold them in place, I have used engine oil, loctite, and linseed oil. Haven't noticed a difference in the final result.
Do you measure final tension with tyre inflated at running pressure?

 

[beeb]

View attachment 385529

Well there’s your problem! You’re using interior rated oil! Since you’re riding outdoors you need to switch it up for some exterior decking oil…

 

[Litenbror]

Well there’s your problem! You’re using interior rated oil! Since you’re riding outdoors you need to switch it up for some exterior decking oil…

I was going to recommend trying a tinted oil but I think you've nailed it @beeb

 

[PJO]

Well there’s your problem! You’re using interior rated oil! Since you’re riding outdoors you need to switch it up for some exterior decking oil…

Actually you are onto something there @beeb. Tung oil should work well and polymerise faster than (raw) linseed oil.

 

[beeb]

Actually you are onto something there @beeb. Tung oil should work well and polymerise faster than (raw) linseed oil.

Yes, I meant what I said.

 

[Flow-Rider]

It took me about 6 hours to get a wheel apart once where someone used linseed oil, I was tempted to cut the spokes but there weren't the easiest to source. I've only ever used anti seize and never had any problems.

Make sure you leave a few soaked old rags lying around.

 

[ausdb]

If you can get it cheap I reckon it would be a really handy addition to the tool box for emergency repairs. Not sure I would build a whole wheel out of spokes threaded with it though

These things do roll the threads not cut them. Waste a few old spokes and set it up properly, use some sort of lubricant and they do a good job. It looks like they've changed the design in the last few years. It doesn't take that long to do a wheel worth once you rig up some sort of a stop so you get repeatable thread length and you can take the handle off and put a battery a drill on if your too lazy to turn the handle.

 

[SummitFever]

@ozzybmx is your tension up to the same level when you finish a wheel now compared to a few builds ago? Tension meter could need recalibration?
Well tensioned spokes shouldn't need anything to hold them in place, I have used engine oil, loctite, and linseed oil. Haven't noticed a difference in the final result.
Do you measure final tension with tyre inflated at running pressure?

This. I have always just used engine oil on the spoke threads and anti seize on the rim hole (applied with a cotton bud).

Wheels build up easily and can be retensioned at any stage without issue.

The nipples can not unwind if the spokes stay under proper tension.

 

[The Duckmeister]

Build dry.

 

[ozzybmx]

@ozzybmx is your tension up to the same level when you finish a wheel now compared to a few builds ago? Tension meter could need recalibration?
Well tensioned spokes shouldn't need anything to hold them in place, I have used engine oil, loctite, and linseed oil. Haven't noticed a difference in the final result.
Do you measure final tension with tyre inflated at running pressure?

The nipples can not unwind if the spokes stay under proper tension.

Yeah it might be an issue with tension but the nipples are spinning by hand, there is no resistance (dried linseed) at all.

I always do my final tension with no tyre on... never had a problem before. Usually around 110kgf.

The Park Tool tension meter I use is the one I have always used, it may need calibration but I dont just rely on the meter. I have built enough wheels by now that I know how they should feel by hand and by sound.

I just use the meter usually to get a ballpark and check consistency.

Has me a bit baffled to what has gone wrong.

Build dry.

Might be an option.

Going to try and get some new Linseed onto my Deviate's rear wheel tomorrow.

 

[Oddjob]

Yeah it might be an issue with tension but the nipples are spinning by hand, there is no resistance (dried linseed) at all.

I always do my final tension with no tyre on... never had a problem before. Usually around 110kgf.

The Park Tool tension meter I use is the one I have always used, it may need calibration but I dont just rely on the meter. I have built enough wheels by now that I know how they should feel by hand and by sound.

I just use the meter usually to get a ballpark and check consistency.

Has me a bit baffled to what has gone wrong.



Might be an option.

Going to try and get some new Linseed onto my Deviate's rear wheel tomorrow.

If you're trying to deal with wheels that are already built, get a 10ml syringe and put some Lanotec in it. It penetrates very well as a liquid but dries out to a tacky anti-seize. Drip some on the threads and the rim holes and then re-tension. Don't use loctite blue or purple.

My guess is that the linseed oil has turned into a hard lacquer and powderised.

Sent from my M2012K11AG using Tapatalk

 

[shiny]

Not built a wheel yet and I have been reading Roger Mussons book, he uses engine oil on spoke threads and a dab on the eyelet.

Not watched Ali Clarkson's vids as yet. Let us know how you go @ozzybmx

 

[ozzybmx]

My guess is that the linseed oil has turned into a hard lacquer and powderised.

I've never had an issue before, even straightening a wheel that I have built, there's resistance unscrewing the nipple. Same unscrewing the Linseed bottle lid.

Something is definitely gone amiss with the old Linseed oil.

Will look into the Lanotec.

Cheers

 

[Nambra]

... and the little 'piss pot' I use for dunking the spokes in was always dried HARD.

Not sure why you're going all Bear Grylls on your spokes, but perhaps see if your urologist can help you?

 

[ozzybmx]

3 wheels done today, Deviate wheelset and #2 sons rear, undone about 10 turns, dripped Linseed onto the threads and re-tensioned, all high sides at around 110kgf.

Might as well not have bothered on #2 sons as hes cracked the sidewall

 

[ausdb]

Are there any mavic gurus here? I noticed a spoke had come adrift on my sons rear wheel the other night whilst I was fixing a puncture. It's an old 26 crossmax SL.

As we're away and I have limited tools I managed to unscrew the nipple from the rim and remove it, but the nipple looks well and truly corroded to the ball end of the spoke.

I'm guessing I need to start unicorn hunting for a replacement but has anyone ever tried or managed to get one apart without destroying it? Some hamboing has suggested hot water as well as the usual soak it in penetrating oil.

 

[Oddjob]

Are there any mavic gurus here? I noticed a spoke had come adrift on my sons rear wheel the other night whilst I was fixing a puncture. It's an old 26 crossmax SL.
View attachment 385560
As we're away and I have limited tools I managed to unscrew the nipple from the rim and remove it, but the nipple looks well and truly corroded to the ball end of the spoke.
View attachment 385561
I'm guessing I need to start unicorn hunting for a replacement but has anyone ever tried or managed to get one apart without destroying it? Some hamboing has suggested hot water as well as the usual soak it in penetrating oil.

Dip it in vinegar mixed 50/50 with warm water. That might loosen the corrosion between the spoke and nipple, or it might completely fuck the nipple. Then use penetrating oil if the nipple doesn't fall apart.

Sent from my M2012K11AG using Tapatalk

 

[Dales Cannon]

Dip it in vinegar mixed 50/50 with warm water. That might loosen the corrosion between the spoke and nipple, or it might completely fuck the nipple. Then use penetrating oil if the nipple doesn't fall apart.

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^^^^^^^^
Or 50/50 acetone and ATF. Don't waste your time with wd40. White vinegar is best.

 

[ForkinGreat]

^^^^^^^^
Or 50/50 acetone and ATF. Don't waste your time with wd40. White vinegar is best.

ATF=Automatic Transmission Fluid?

 

[Dales Cannon]

ATF=Automatic Transmission Fluid?

yarp