Wheel Build Advice Thread

teK--

Eats Squid

The Duckmeister

Has a juicy midrange
Just came across this nipple assembly tool on AliExpress.

I have the Unior model and they are about $40+

Might be worth giving this a try for anyone who is interested for under $10.

Maybe my expectation has been warped by other nipple-driving tools, but I found this bouncy type pretty underwhelming. The nipple-gripping spring is good for deep-profile rims where a "normal" expanding nipple-gripping screwdriver won't fit, but loses the plot when it comes to threading the nipples on to a consistent depth.
 

PJO

in me vL comy
Just came across this nipple assembly tool on AliExpress.

I have the Unior model and they are about $40+

Might be worth giving this a try for anyone who is interested for under $10.

There is something not quite right about this picture, the tool appears to have gone through the rim! :eek:
379273
 

ozzybmx

taking a shit with my boobs out
Maybe my expectation has been warped by other nipple-driving tools, but I found this bouncy type pretty underwhelming. The nipple-gripping spring is good for deep-profile rims where a "normal" expanding nipple-gripping screwdriver won't fit, but loses the plot when it comes to threading the nipples on to a consistent depth.
I love it for the initial grabbing of the nipple from the nipple tray and inserting into the rim without falling into the cavity but only good for about 6 turns until the spring gripper touches the end of the spoke.

I use my Park Tool nipple spinner after that.
 

Isaakk

Likes Bikes and Dirt
Quick Q for those more knowledgeable than I: Is it normal for drive side on the rear to have a significantly higher tension when true/dished than non-drive side? This is my first build, have been following Ali Clarksons vids & don't know the ins/outs.
 

Attachments

The Duckmeister

Has a juicy midrange
A left/right tension imbalance is completely normal (unless on a non-disc front wheel) due to the hub flanges not being equidistant from the hub centre... Different offset alters bracing angle, which affects spoke length, and then tension. The side with the shorter spoke run (rear drive or front disc side) will be the higher-tensioned side; build those to the rim manufacturer's recommended tension range, and the other side is what it is to centre the rim over the hub. Most important after proper tension is equalising the tension within each side of the wheel so all spokes are sharing the load evenly.
 

Isaakk

Likes Bikes and Dirt
Looking for spokes at a reasonable price and having trouble - where do you guys generally buy your spokes and other wheel building related supplies from?
 

boyracer

Likes Dirt
LBS closing near work. I am thikig of buying their thread cutter off them and just buying 300 mm jokes from now on in boxes.
Any one use a thread cutter? Not as good as rolled for sure but...
384629
 

T-Rex

Template denier
LBS closing near work. I am thikig of buying their thread cutter off them and just buying 300 mm jokes from now on in boxes.
Any one use a thread cutter? Not as good as rolled for sure but...
View attachment 384629
If you can get it cheap I reckon it would be a really handy addition to the tool box for emergency repairs. Not sure I would build a whole wheel out of spokes threaded with it though
 

ozzybmx

taking a shit with my boobs out
Big story/theory.

So, I have a bit of an issue here.

When I started building wheels around 2008-2009, I bought myself a bottle of Linseed oil as spoke prep/lube/locker and it had worked 100% for many years with probably 30+ wheelsets built in the 14yrs.

Every time I went to use it, it was a struggle getting the cap off the bottle as it had 'dried' and locked the lid on. It used to always have dried linseed gunk around there too... and the little 'piss pot' I use for dunking the spokes in was always dried HARD.

In the past few years, I'm getting ready for a fight with the lid and it twists off smooth as.... Didnt think much about it.

About a year ago #2 son comes to me and tells me his spokes are loose... hmmm, strange and I tension the wheel. Then #1 son's rear wheel, I tension it too.

I have relaced about 5-6 rears in the past 2 years so didn't think much about it.

Derby at x-mas (a month ago) #1 says his spokes are loose, #2 feels his and they are also loose :oops: They can be tightened and loosened by hand... WTF, nek minnit, "dad your spokes are loose too"

So I have 3 rear wheels to tension and try and lock with Loctite Thread locker before we even ride a bike in St Helens.

We get home to Adelaide and loose spokes again on all 3 bikes.

So my theory is Linseed oil looses it drying ability over time, my 14yr bottle no longer dries and locks the spokes.

The little 'piss pot' I use to dip the spokes in - is semi wet with Linseed oil with a jelly like cover over the top and its open to air, not dry as it used to be.

I now have the task of rebuilding some wheel sets.

#1 sons Nextie Premium 29 XC race wheelset (loose)
#2 sons Nextie Premium 29 XC race wheelset (loose)
#1 sons rear DT swiss enduro wheel (loose)
#2 sons rear WTB enduro wheel (loose)
My Nextie Deviate wheelset (rear loose, front ok but it has been built with the same shitty oil)
My Nextie Transition Spur wheelset (rear coming loose, front ok but it has been built with the same shitty oil)

10 wheels in total.

No idea the approach to take just yet, I may try loosening each nipple by 10-12 turns and dripping the new 'Improved drying' Linseed oil I got from Bunnings today on the threads :(

If anyone else has another theory on this, let me know but I'm pretty sure this is whats going on.

385529
 
Last edited:

rockmoose

his flabber is totally gastered
Big story/theory.

So, I have a bit of an issue here.

When I started building wheels around 2008-2009, I bought myself a bottle of Linseed oil as spoke prep/lube/locker and it had worked 100% for many years with probably 30+ wheelsets built in the 14yrs.

Every time I went to use it, it was a struggle getting the cap off the bottle as it had 'dried' and locked the lid on. It used to always have dried linseed gunk around there too... and the little 'piss pot' I use for dunking the spokes in was always dried HARD.

In the past few years, I'm getting ready for a fight with the lid and it twists off smooth as.... Didnt think much about it.

About a year ago #2 son comes to me and tells me his spokes are loose... hmmm, strange and I tension the wheel. Then #1 son's rear wheel, I tension it too.

I have relaced about 5-6 rears in the past 2 years so didn't think much about it.

Derby at x-mas (a month ago) #1 says his spokes are loose, #2 feels his and they are also loose :oops: They can be tightened and loosened by hand... WTF, nek minnit, "dad your spokes are loose too"

So I have 3 rear wheels to tension and try and lock with Loctite Thread locker before we even ride a bike in St Helens.

We get home to Adelaide and loose spokes again on all 3 bikes.

So my theory is Linseed oil looses it drying ability over time, my 14yr bottle no longer dries and locks the spokes.

The little 'piss pot' I use to dip the spokes in - is semi wet with Linseed oil with a jelly like cover over the top and its open to air, not dry as it used to be.

I now have the task of rebuilding some wheel sets.

#1 sons Nextie Premium 29 XC race wheelset (loose)
#2 sons Nextie Premium 29 XC race wheelset (loose)
#1 sons rear DT swiss enduro wheel (loose)
#2 sons rear WTB enduro wheel (loose)
My Nextie Deviate wheelset (rear loose, front ok but it has been built with the same shitty oil)
My Nextie Transition Spur wheelset (rear coming loose, front ok but it has been built with the same shitty oil)

10 wheels in total.

No idea the approach to take just yet, I may try loosening each nipple by 10-12 turns and dripping the new 'Improved drying' Linseed oil I got from Bunnings today on the threads :(

If anyone else has another theory on this, let me know but I'm pretty sure this is whats going on.

View attachment 385529
Looks like all the added drying agents, in your old boiled linseed, have volatiled their way into your atmosphere.

I never knew boiled linseed wasn't boiled at all.

 

ozzybmx

taking a shit with my boobs out
Looks like all the added drying agents, in your old boiled linseed, have volatiled their way into your atmosphere.
The lid stays tight on the bottle when not being used and the little bit I pour into the piss pot gets returned to the big bottle.

All wheelsets up until about 2-3 years ago are fine, everything after that are de-tensioning themselves, might as well have used baby oil :oops:

I never knew boiled linseed wasn't boiled at all.
I've never even thought about it :)
 

Oddjob

Merry fucking Xmas to you assholes
Looks like all the added drying agents, in your old boiled linseed, have volatiled their way into your atmosphere.

I never knew boiled linseed wasn't boiled at all.

Just move onto Lanotec. Never dries out and has similar tacky properties.

Sent from my M2012K11AG using Tapatalk
 

Live2DieTrying

Likes Bikes and Dirt
Tough break ozzy. Maybe time to try something other than linseed oil...
Just a though, could the linseed become hygroscopic over time?
I have built my last 3 sets: am, dh and bmx wheels with just grease on the spoke threads and not had to re-tension any of them so far in 3+ years
 
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