Flow-Rider
Burner
Old bike shops usually have a spoke threading machine, they might be able to repair the threads locally. I had some threads made years ago, and it wasn't very expensive.
Wheel Build Advice Thread
- Thread starter creaky
- Start date
Labcanary
One potato, two potato, click
Cheers @Flow-Rider, good idea!
moorey
call me Mia
A mate has one. Or used to. Probably still does. Want me to ask?
Labcanary
One potato, two potato, click
Sure, thanks!
Labcanary
One potato, two potato, click
No stress if he can't find it, thanks for asking!
moorey
call me Mia
He’ll let us know tomorrow. Thinks he’s got it. Won’t lend it, but will do them for you for a few beers if he finds it.
ausdb
Being who he is
Late to the party here but I would say they have cut them with something that's munted the end a bit and then just threaded them straight away.
I use those Trojan cheapo cable cutters which cut a bit cleaner and grind a little chamfer on the end before I put them in the thread roller. If @moorey contact falls through I'm happy to try to tidy them up if your happy to post to Perth and back.
(I have a Hozan spoke roller)
I use those Trojan cheapo cable cutters which cut a bit cleaner and grind a little chamfer on the end before I put them in the thread roller. If @moorey contact falls through I'm happy to try to tidy them up if your happy to post to Perth and back.
(I have a Hozan spoke roller)
Labcanary
One potato, two potato, click
Awesome, thanks for the offer!
k3n!f
leaking out the other end
I've never been game to try a wheel build from scratch, but I need to replace a rim. I'm thinking of taping the new rim to the old wheel, moving the spokes across and then tensioning the wheel in the bike. As a novice, is it a stupid idea to have a crack at this with no tools or experience?
I'm working with a rear DT Swiss 240 hub, Sapim CX-ray spokes and Notubes Crest rim. Thoughts?
(If I'm going to end up in hospital or the fuckwit thread I'll just go to a bike shop....)
I'm working with a rear DT Swiss 240 hub, Sapim CX-ray spokes and Notubes Crest rim. Thoughts?
(If I'm going to end up in hospital or the fuckwit thread I'll just go to a bike shop....)
ozzybmx
taking a shit with my boobs out
I am 100% on people having a go at building their own wheels, even encouraging it by lending mates my wheel building gear and pointing them to youtube
CX rays are bladed and the spaghetti noodle called Stans Crests are a couple of the more tricky components.
I would still encourage you to go for it but be careful with winding up the bladed spokes and ensure even tensioning of the Crests.
T-Rex
Template denier
I don’t think you will end up in hospital ..... I “Re-rimmed” a guy’s wheel at a DH race in half an hour using the method you described. It got him to his race run just in time and it did one run down the hill, both he and the wheel survived. Mind you, it wasn’t the straightest wheel of all time, and it was not the first wheel I had ever built.
good luck, let us know how you get on.
The Duckmeister
Has a juicy midrange
If you're you're using a new example of the same model rim, or another with the same depth profile as the original, then it will transfer really well, and taping the new rim to the old is a standard method for doing it. You can strike problems if the old & new rims are different depths, dictating different spoke lengths.
Loosen all spokes in the old wheel off a bit so you have some slack to play with, then start by swapping the spokes on the side the new rim is taped to, then follow with the other side. Don't try to reef up to full tension straight away; do it in steps, and be consistent all around the wheel at each step.
Oddjob
Merry fucking Xmas to you assholes
That's a tricky combo. Bladed spokes can be a nuisance if you don't have the spoke holder, and those Stan's rims can crack nipple beds easily.
Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk
k3n!f
leaking out the other end
Legends, thanks for all the advice.
Unfortunately, I'm having trouble locating a Crest 29er rim with 32 holes. The reason I was going to use the same rim is the wheel is built with super fancy Sapim CX Ray spokes which I would prefer to keep. These rims are 15.8mm in depth with an ERD of 605mm.
Hypothetically, if I was going to source another rim how close does it have to be in depth and ERD to use the same spokes?
Unfortunately, I'm having trouble locating a Crest 29er rim with 32 holes. The reason I was going to use the same rim is the wheel is built with super fancy Sapim CX Ray spokes which I would prefer to keep. These rims are 15.8mm in depth with an ERD of 605mm.
Hypothetically, if I was going to source another rim how close does it have to be in depth and ERD to use the same spokes?
SummitFever
Eats Squid
You might get away with up to 4mm smaller ERD and 2mm larger ERD.
Which Crest? Original or the latest (Mk3)?
Which Crest? Original or the latest (Mk3)?
yuley95
soft-arse Yuley is on the lifts again
Being a bit lazy here and not looking up erd but... I had a Hunt trail wide that developed a flat spot and found that both a stans flow mk3 and a wtb kom tough i29 had the same or close enough erd. I used the same hub, spokes and nipples to build a wheel with the wtb rim then promptly cased it repeatedly (like 4 times) on a log and cracked it. I then rebuilt on the stans flow and all good (cleared the log).
long story but suggestion you may find a hunt or wtb rim with the same erd???