Tyre dilemma. Need help!

[jarrod839]

Hi all.
Before i bite the bullet and go down the tubeless path just want to make sure its really worth it.
Currently running magic marys 27.5 x 2.5 non tubeless on my DH rig.
Would like to keep running magic marys but would be restricted to 27.5 x 2.35 due to my internal rim width after much research.
Problem i have with the magic marys is they are expensive and i have destroyed them within a weekend of riding.
If i stay with a tubed setup gives me the option of running minions which are cheap but not as grippy. Or go for the bontrager G5's which are expensive but long lasting.

Ive never had a problem with pinch flats except riding at maldon. So would it really be worth going tubeless purely for weight savings and to never really have to worry about pinch flats.
Or stay tubed and have a better variety of tyres to run.

Thanks for any advice.

 

[pharmaboy]

Stay tubed - I'd never usually give this advice, but there is no advantage for you

 

[teK--]

I'd never go back to tubes...

Try the minion st compound if u need more grip

 

[GravityJockey]

Why not try Schwalbe Pro Core ?

So I think your feeling you might burp your wide tyres of your rims ? I think you would be fine running tubeless but not at the ridiculous 16 - 24 psi levels that some people are... but again that is dependent of how you ride...but since you get a few pinch flats I'd say your at least a little aggressive.

Schwalbe Pro core is something that if you are willing to fork out for could give you the best of both worlds... worth researching anyway.

pretty sure their is even someone offering half a kit on here at the moment if you only need it for the back...

 

[EsPeGe]

Hi all.
Would like to keep running magic marys but.....
Problem i have with the magic marys is they are expensive and i have destroyed them within a weekend of riding.

Out of curiosity why stay with a tyre that costs a lot and you've destroyed in a weekend? There must be other tyres out there that would suit your riding style, in the size you want that don't cost a nut???? Since changing from Mavic rubber which I didn't like I've been on Maxxis. I'm sure they will have something that will suit your needs.

For my 2 cents I'd go tubeless. I too will never go back, no pinch flats (generally not your issue), lower pressures and a smidge less weight.

 

[jarrod839]

Thanks for the feedback.

I ask myself everytime i change a magic mary over why i keep running them as been through 4 tyres on the rear since October and still running the original on front and put the last one on the rear today. Magic Mary's grip is beyond any other tyre but they just fall apart.
Minions are ok cheap and long lasting just shit grip and G5's are better than a minion just super heavy and expensive.
Thats where im stuck as want to keep the weight down as my rig is currently sitting at 15.5kg and i want to give tubeless a go but just thinking about the options in tyres considering my rim width.

Have looked into the schwable corr before and being hearing mixed reviews on it. So not sure if I want to venture there.

 

[Boom King]

What rims are you on Jarrod?

 

[jarrod839]

What rims are you on Jarrod?

E-thirteen LG1r

 

[Boom King]

E-thirteen LG1r

What internal on those?

 

[Boom King]

E-thirteen LG1r

If you want, I'm happy to come over one arvo this week with my roll of tape, bottle of Stans and a ghetto valve. We can set a wheel up toobless and see what you think?

 

[jarrod839]

What internal on those?

23mm

10 char

 

[GRPABT1]

I'm also a lover of the Magic Mary and run them on the front of my Altitude. Recently picked up the new 2.5 minion in tubeless DD casing with 3C maxx grip rubber for a mate and it's going to be my next front tyre I think. The side lugs on the 3C maxx grip are actually softer than the 42a super tacky which is in the centre tread. It's the first tyre I've seen that matches the vert star rubber of Schwalbe for softness and stickiness. Width wise they measure up ever so slightly wider at the side lugs than the 2.35 Mary but slightly narrower at the sidewall so a little less volume. With the price of Magic Mary's, my struggle to find them locally and their penchant for getting bubbles in the tread after a while I'm finally convinced Maxxis have a tyre for me.

 

[teK--]

I'm also a lover of the Magic Mary and run them on the front of my Altitude. Recently picked up the new 2.5 minion in tubeless DD casing with 3C maxx grip rubber for a mate and it's going to be my next front tyre I think. The side lugs on the 3C maxx grip are actually softer than the 42a super tacky which is in the centre tread. It's the first tyre I've seen that matches the vert star rubber of Schwalbe for softness and stickiness. Width wise they measure up ever so slightly wider at the side lugs than the 2.35 Mary but slightly narrower at the sidewall so a little less volume. With the price of Magic Mary's, my struggle to find them locally and their penchant for getting bubbles in the tread after a while I'm finally convinced Maxxis have a tyre for me.

I ran the MM for over a year they are an amazing tyre but just shredded well before they wore away. Now on DHF 2.5 and after first ride yesterday it is smiles all round.

 

[jarrod839]

If you want, I'm happy to come over one arvo this week with my roll of tape, bottle of Stans and a ghetto valve. We can set a wheel up toobless and see what you think?

thanks for the offer mate.
Will take it up next time i have to fit another tyre which will most likely be in a few weekends.
Was a nightmare getting the old one off gave up after a hour and took it too the shop.
Tyre had vacuumed itself onto the rim.
So deff think will seal up tubeless alright.

 

[jarrod839]

I'm also a lover of the Magic Mary and run them on the front of my Altitude. Recently picked up the new 2.5 minion in tubeless DD casing with 3C maxx grip rubber for a mate and it's going to be my next front tyre I think. The side lugs on the 3C maxx grip are actually softer than the 42a super tacky which is in the centre tread. It's the first tyre I've seen that matches the vert star rubber of Schwalbe for softness and stickiness. Width wise they measure up ever so slightly wider at the side lugs than the 2.35 Mary but slightly narrower at the sidewall so a little less volume. With the price of Magic Mary's, my struggle to find them locally and their penchant for getting bubbles in the tread after a while I'm finally convinced Maxxis have a tyre for me.

i am a sucker for the magic marys and went to buy some wire bead 2.5 minions yesterday but everywhere was sold out so bought more mary 2.5's as were going cheaper than minions.
Think once i have some spare money to throw at a minion tubeless setup will just give them a go and see what happens.

 

[T-Rex]

Hi all.
Before i bite the bullet and go down the tubeless path just want to make sure its really worth it.
Currently running magic marys 27.5 x 2.5 non tubeless on my DH rig.
Would like to keep running magic marys but would be restricted to 27.5 x 2.35 due to my internal rim width after much research.
Problem i have with the magic marys is they are expensive and i have destroyed them within a weekend of riding.
If i stay with a tubed setup gives me the option of running minions which are cheap but not as grippy. Or go for the bontrager G5's which are expensive but long lasting.

Ive never had a problem with pinch flats except riding at maldon. So would it really be worth going tubeless purely for weight savings and to never really have to worry about pinch flats.
Or stay tubed and have a better variety of tyres to run.

Thanks for any advice.

Here's a few observations for you:

If you run 2.35s your rims cop more of a beating due to the lower tyre volume.

A LOT of races get won on Minions, have you tried the 42 compound aka Super Tacky, it's a lot softer than the 60 compound.

Tubeless will save you 100-200 grams per wheel of rotating weight, which is the most important type of weight to reduce. Weight saving mostly depends on what tubes you have been running.

Tubeless wont stop you getting pinch flats, but it will reduce the number of times you get them.

 

[SideFX]

i am a sucker for the magic marys and went to buy some wire bead 2.5 minions yesterday but everywhere was sold out so bought more mary 2.5's as were going cheaper than minions.
Think once i have some spare money to throw at a minion tubeless setup will just give them a go and see what happens.

hi Jarrod , mate the standard Minnion works tubeless as well if that helps .

 

[The Duckmeister]

Tubeless will save you 100-200 grams per wheel of rotating weight, which is the most important type of weight to reduce. Weight saving mostly depends on what tubes you have been running.

Weight-saving is not really a big factor when going tubeless; the tougher construction of the tyres offsets a lot of the weight removed by turfing the tubes. I don't know what sort of numbers bounce around with D/H stuff, but doing the switch in a XC setup context a few years ago, the total weight loss of both wheels was around 140g. You might get a greater basic reduction on a DH setting due to everything being bigger, but if you calculate it as a proportion of the total weight you'll probably find it's less significant.

Where tubeless wins is in the ride itself. Allowing lower pressure reduces the tendency to bounce off stuff, so your traction & handling improve. Not having a tube squirming against the inside of the tyre reduces internal friction, which translates to more efficient rolling, and of course you don't have the tube to pinch flat. Tubeless is by no means a punctureproof system, but it's a lot less prone to leakage than tubed.

 

[T-Rex]

Weight-saving is not really a big factor when going tubeless; the tougher construction of the tyres offsets a lot of the weight removed by turfing the tubes. I don't know what sort of numbers bounce around with D/H stuff,

You can trust those weights Duck, I spent years mucking around with tubeless setups racing DH. A UST Minion is actually 20g lighter on average than a normal tubed wire bead double ply.

The main benefit in DH is in acceleration out of slow corners, the rider can "spool up" the wheels easier when getting on the pedals. The bike is also a little bit easier to throw around with less weight hanging out each end. When you are chasing 10ths of a second, these little things add up.

Your other observations are correct, but I can't say I've seen them translate to improved times in a given DH run. However, over a couple of hours of XC, I expect that those benefits would count for more.

 

[Flow-Rider]

Weight-saving is not really a big factor when going tubeless; the tougher construction of the tyres offsets a lot of the weight removed by turfing the tubes. I don't know what sort of numbers bounce around with D/H stuff, but doing the switch in a XC setup context a few years ago, the total weight loss of both wheels was around 140g. You might get a greater basic reduction on a DH setting due to everything being bigger, but if you calculate it as a proportion of the total weight you'll probably find it's less significant.

Where tubeless wins is in the ride itself. Allowing lower pressure reduces the tendency to bounce off stuff, so your traction & handling improve. Not having a tube squirming against the inside of the tyre reduces internal friction, which translates to more efficient rolling, and of course you don't have the tube to pinch flat. Tubeless is by no means a punctureproof system, but it's a lot less prone to leakage than tubed.

I thought the same thing myself, add the thicker tyre wall, 60mls of tyre sealant = 60 grams roughly, a steel valve and it's pretty close to the tubes weight if not more. Depending on which tyre you go to also.