The Woodwork thread

Dales Cannon

lightbrain about 4pm
Staff member
Yeah agreed. The aluminium housing trimmer/router is a solid tool. You can if you really desire also buy a plunge attachment for it. It’s one of those rare makita tools that hasn’t changed design in many years. ( oh how I miss my old bulletproof LS1013 dropsaw that maintained its design for something like 20plus years. The new ones are absolute junk in comparison)
Can’t go wrong with the trimmer.
That is my compound slide saw!
 

Scotty675

Cable thief
Yeah agreed. The aluminium housing trimmer/router is a solid tool. You can if you really desire also buy a plunge attachment for it. It’s one of those rare makita tools that hasn’t changed design in many years. ( oh how I miss my old bulletproof LS1013 dropsaw that maintained its design for something like 20plus years. The new ones are absolute junk in comparison)
Can’t go wrong with the trimmer.
Good saw and I still have one going strong. I’ve got a lot of Makita tools but sadly I wouldn’t by a new saw. They really went down hill and build quality sadly isn’t there anymore. There drill quality isn’t as good either anymore although I’ve mainly stuck with them. Sadly things aren’t built to last like they used to
 

Dales Cannon

lightbrain about 4pm
Staff member
Mentioned before that the minister wanted a small side table / foot stool in the lounge. I was planning on using the red cedar and making a small raw edged table but that got stolen and used elsewhere. So the request was make it all matchy matchy, you know like a father and son's bicycle. The original stuff is jarrah and I made it while in WA, two coffee tables and a bookscase thing for videos and a stereo and tv cabinet thing. Plenty of access to DAR jarrah and I had a table saw and router table and a large area to use them. Table saw died while in storage at my mother's house (rusted beyond repair) and the router table is in a box so it was going to be all hand tools and because jarrah is silly money over here it was going to be tassie oak and jarrah stain. This works pretty well as I made another CD bookcase / rack to match the one I did in WA for videos which now stores dvds.

Started out grabbing a couple of offcuts from a furniture place, 800x350x35 and 750x130x45 and 1.8m x65x26. All up this was $40 cash so I reckon that was a good price.

Without a table saw or vertical bandsaw ripping the 130x45 was going to be tricky and in the end I just ripped it with a cordless circular saw by cutting just over half and flipping it over. Somehow I cocked up by cutting either side of the blade and the split was a kerf out but didn't matter because I had plenty left to clean up to get to the magic 60 width. Then I sized the top and a shelf. The legs were to be 60x40 and the top 320 square x19, the shelf about 50mm smaller all round and 19 thick and notched to suit the legs and then the skirt under the top was 60x19. All to match the existing coffee tables. Luckily I have a thicknesser!!!!

After initial cutting:

After thicknessing the bits:

The top:

And... drum roll...

Finished the manufacturing and screwing together today. Test fitted and all good. Now to pull it apart, sand and stain and then reassemble with glue and screws and some varnish over the lot.

tada...



Not bad, not much wastages. I had so much trouble setting up the compound slide saw to get a perfect square cut. Bloody thing. It is a million years old and travelled all over this country. Didn't help that I sheared one of the adjusting bolts which was a bit stuck. Anyway 813.2 cuts later and it was square. And as I was joining 60x40 into a 19 thick top the kreg jig had to be fooled a bit so there were multiple test holes drilled. The kreg screws are just holding it while the glue dries and I wont glue the skirts across the grain and just leave those firm so that the top can move a bit.
 
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ozzybmx

taking a shit with my boobs out
I bought a Dewalt DWS780-XE a few years back, came with the cutting stand, they are a decent saw and precise.

Bought 190m2 of wooden flooring for my house, then out of interest I got a quote to lay it.

Lets say buying the Mitre saw, M18 Milwaukee multitool, M18 circular saw, M18 jig saw and lots of other essential goodies, I was still $5k better off than the cost to lay it.

Its now built several drawer units in my garage and floored my holiday place.
 

Dales Cannon

lightbrain about 4pm
Staff member
I bought a Dewalt DWS780-XE a few years back, came with the cutting stand, they are a decent saw and precise.

Bought 190m2 of wooden flooring for my house, then out of interest I got a quote to lay it.

Lets say buying the Mitre saw, M18 Milwaukee multitool, M18 circular saw, M18 jig saw and lots of other essential goodies, I was still $5k better off than the cost to lay it.

Its now built several drawer units in my garage and floored my holiday place.
My compound slide saw is good, just been abused and not cared for in the last few years. Awkward things to store so it gets picked up and dropped and you know the rest. Those slivers are straight off the saw.

Ig I had another shed I would buy a good table saw, you know with 1m or more either side of the saw but space is not good with lathe and mill and horizontal bandsaw and work benches and belt grinder and storage shelves and bugger building another shed.

I am th8nking of getting a small bandsaw though. Maybe 255 throat. Light enough to move out of the way if needed. Trouble is woodwork is so filthy everything gets covered in dust even with decent dust control. It's a dill Emma.
 

Dales Cannon

lightbrain about 4pm
Staff member
So as above I have wanted to grab a vertical bandsaw for a while but a bit space compromised and most in my price range are too fast for metal. After building the little side table, which is drying its first coat of varnish, a bandsaw would have made life much easier. Splitting the timber for the legs and rounding the corners and notching out the shelf for the legs etc. And a lot of the little bracket jobs would be much easier with the bandsaw.

I moved the press and the sanding disc/linisher and made some space next to the lathe.

The Carbatec BS-345H seems to fit my requirements as long as I grab appropriate metal cutting blades. 400'/min is still a little fast but mostly I will be cutting thin Ali and mild steel. Swapping speeds and blades for timber easy enough.

Any real world experiences out there before I buy?
 

Dales Cannon

lightbrain about 4pm
Staff member

ausdb

Being who he is
Mentioned before that the minister wanted a small side table / foot stool in the lounge. I was planning on using the red cedar and making a small raw edged table but that got stolen and used elsewhere. So the request was make it all matchy matchy, you know like a father and son's bicycle. The original stuff is jarrah and I made it while in WA, two coffee tables and a bookscase thing for videos and a stereo and tv cabinet thing. Plenty of access to DAR jarrah and I had a table saw and router table and a large area to use them. Table saw died while in storage at my mother's house (rusted beyond repair) and the router table is in a box so it was going to be all hand tools and because jarrah is silly money over here it was going to be tassie oak and jarrah stain. This works pretty well as I made another CD bookcase / rack to match the one I did in WA for videos which now stores dvds.
If you think Jarrah is silly money now wait a few more years with the end of native forest logging scheduled for 2024. Theres more than one local boutique furniture maker over here closing up shop now.
 

Dales Cannon

lightbrain about 4pm
Staff member
The place I bought the offcuts from had a red cedar slab, rough sawn with one live edge. 3m long x 600mm wide x 60mm thick. $6,000.

I won't mention I have planted a few hundred cabinet timber trees over the last 20 years.
 

Squidfayce

Eats Squid
Got a nice piece of jarrah for cheap a couple months back. Princes pier origin. Was going to be a mantel, but colour is wrong for the rest of the place, so the blackbutt next to it is going to be it. I'll use the jarrah for a built in bench seat outside
IMG_20221029_195040.jpg
IMG_20221029_195044.jpg
 

Dales Cannon

lightbrain about 4pm
Staff member
Yesterday was an expensive non bike buying day.

Part 1. I picked up the bandsaw and a few blades, some Forstner bits, a Japanese saw and a diamond sharpener since what I am going to use the forstner bits for is not recommeded.



I watched a few videos about the cheaper end bandsaws and a mate has one. One thing that came out was the time it takes to change a blade and set up the saw. I figured most of my stuff would be metal with the occasional timber jobbie and bought blades accordingly. After setting up the metal blade (12mm x 14tpi) I can only say those guys had better never buy a mill or a lathe. I have spent an hour or more setting up a 4 jaw chuck and getting a flycutting job just right. It takes maybe 10 minutes to swap the blade and set the table and then set the guide rollers. Ah well compared to a jig saw or circular saw it is more involved but wont stop me using the right blade for the job.

It glides easily on the rollers and is solid and stable when the wheels are retraced. Plenty of space there for small jobs and wheeled into the middle of the shed can run pretty much anything through it. The saw is about 80kg and the base is another 10 or so. The table on its own is close to 20kg so all up over 100kg. I had some help to mount the saw on the base and then we fitted the table and rolled it into place.

Only gripes are the belt tensioner handle thread was too long and fouled on the body but that was a 30 second fix with a hacksaw and the lower door has a dust deflector that hits the table when you try and open the door so that was refitted with a nyloc nut to just firm and can be twisted out of the way to open the bottom door.

I was a bit worried the 400 '/min would be too fast for metal but actually it works well with the blade I bought. Did a few test cuts on some aluminium tube and mild steel flat and it works a treat, easy to use and very accurate. I will still use the horizontal bandsaw for anything heavier but for the odd bracket and shaping of aluminium it is perfect.
 

Squidfayce

Eats Squid
Anyone know if using a coach screw/lag screw longer than the wood it's going into diminishes it's load bearing capacity? Wondering if there may be so.ething to do with leverage that might be impacted if it protrudes out the other end by too much (ie a 75mm screw in a 30 or 40mm piece if wood)
 

Dales Cannon

lightbrain about 4pm
Staff member
Anyone know if using a coach screw/lag screw longer than the wood it's going into diminishes it's load bearing capacity? Wondering if there may be so.ething to do with leverage that might be impacted if it protrudes out the other end by too much (ie a 75mm screw in a 30 or 40mm piece if wood)
To get the full load capacity it needs all the thread encased in material as specified by the manufacturer. Coach screws really are the last type of fastener that should be considered. What is tge application? They are made from crap and the manufacturing method is one stage above chewed by a dog.
 

Squidfayce

Eats Squid
Cheers i figured that would be the case. Its to hold brackets for a mantel. The ones I have are stainless, so not sure the material it's made from is an issue. As i understand these are supposed to be great for heavy duty work. They use th3se for mounting large tv brackets too. You sure were talking about the same things?
Screenshot_20221112-205318_Chrome.jpg


What would tour reccomendation be?

Edit - Set up is 4 to 6 L heavy duty steel L brackets, that will be holding g a 40 odd KG beam as a mantel (overkill, but once stone is up i want to be 100%sure its not moving). Was originally going to just plonk it on top, but decided to drill out some mortices and use the L brackets as a pseudo floating shelf bracket. These brackets will be screwed I to the lintel in the stud opening of the pctured frame. Has to go there unfortunately as I need the mantel to hang lower into the space that has nothing behind it (hence the L brackets).
 

Attachments

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Dales Cannon

lightbrain about 4pm
Staff member
Same shit. They shear where the thread starts. What are the markings on the head? How are the pieces being put together? Draw a sketch and post it.
 

Squidfayce

Eats Squid
Same shit. They shear where the thread starts. What are the markings on the head? How are the pieces being put together? Draw a sketch and post it.
Added some detail to the post. Don't have them here with me so can't check markings

I guess what I need to know is what has the best lateral (vertical? I dunno. I reckon you know whY I meN tho) load bearing capacity/sheer resistance for the application. Has to be a max of 6mm wide to fit the brackets.
 
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