The stupid questions thread.

Switch

huskier headed gent
So ordered myself some Formula Cura 4 brakes to upgrade from the Shimano MT420, 4-Piston on my ebike. I have bled brakes plenty of times but never done an internally routed install or cut lines hence the stupid question's post.

  • Will I be able to use the existing shimano hoses or need to swap them out?
  • If the hoses can be used are different brand mineral oils compatible or do I need to flush the lines to use formula mineral oil (purchased with the brakes)?
  • Is it worth buying hydraulic brake needle driver tool for the job ZTTO Ali express needle driver or will a vice and large hammer be sufficient ;)

Thanks burners.
 

Litenbror

Eats Squid
So ordered myself some Formula Cura 4 brakes to upgrade from the Shimano MT420, 4-Piston on my ebike. I have bled brakes plenty of times but never done an internally routed install or cut lines hence the stupid question's post.

  • Will I be able to use the existing shimano hoses or need to swap them out?
  • If the hoses can be used are different brand mineral oils compatible or do I need to flush the lines to use formula mineral oil (purchased with the brakes)?
  • Is it worth buying hydraulic brake needle driver tool for the job ZTTO Ali express needle driver or will a vice and large hammer be sufficient ;)
Thanks burners.
Formula have their own fittings at the caliper so you will need to use their line.

I don't have the formula mineral oil but was assured that Shimano would be fine but have a lower temperature tolerance.

Hammer and vice, it's how I did it.
 

Switch

huskier headed gent
Formula have their own fittings at the caliper so you will need to use their line.

I don't have the formula mineral oil but was assured that Shimano would be fine but have a lower temperature tolerance.

Hammer and vice, it's how I did it.
Thanks Litenbror sounds like I have a plan just hope I can avoid the confessions thread when it comes time to internally route the hoses.
 

Litenbror

Eats Squid
Thanks Litenbror sounds like I have a plan just hope I can avoid the confessions thread when it comes time to internally route the hoses.
I can't remember if mine came with the levers on or off but everything I needed to shorten the hoses was in the box.

I'm sure you will be fine with the internal routing just take your time and prepare for some serious frustration/ dummy spit hammer throwing time.
 

The Duckmeister

Has a juicy midrange
Easy way: disconnect old hose from lever, cut off the end of the hose so you can remove the compression nut. Poke a spare gear cable into the hose (have a rag handy, it will displace some oil) far enough to move with the hose. Pull the hose out of the frame, feeding the "mouse" cable in as you go. With the hose out of the frame the mouse will be all the way through to guide the new hose.

Running the new hose is then simple. Again, disconnect the hose from the lever (it shouldn't need to be said, but the obvious eludes some people), cut the terminal fittings & slip the compression nut off, poke the mouse into the new hose and use it to guide the hose through. It work better if the caliper is not mounted at this stage, otherwise the hose can get loopy & difficult to get the last bit in. Once the hose is through, mount the caliper, trim the hose to the necessary length & bung your end fittings on.

And get the needle driver, makes it so much easier; I'm not specifically familiar with Formula hoses, but some can be absolute bastards to get the barb in.
 

moorey

call me Mia
I've always been tempted, but never been able to justify the expense. Maybe one day. Probably not.
I’m yet to experience an USD without horrific twist flex. I know they’re trying to overcome that with this design, but even full dual crown USD forks used to be terrible. Forward/back was excellent, twist was terrible without the arch.
 
Top