The QUICK question thread.....

Mr Crudley

Mr Crudley

Glock in your sock
ozzybmx said:
Yes baby oil is mineral oil and can be used... might not have as high a boiling point but apparently works well in Shimano brakes.

You can buy 1L of the real Shimano mineral oil in Aus for $30 and it lasts for years. Even cheaper from an overseas honey hole.
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I've read that mineral oil makes a good freehub pawl lube. Could I deduce that baby oil would also be a handy supermarket option ?
 
ozzybmx

ozzybmx

taking a shit with my boobs out
Mr Crudley said:
I've read that mineral oil makes a good freehub pawl lube. Could I deduce that baby oil would also be a handy supermarket option ?
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I have used finish line wet lube in every freehub for many years since it was recommended to me instead of the expensive Chris King gipsy tears.
Works well and never had an issue in CK, DT, Hope and Tune.
 
wkkie

wkkie

It's Not Easy Being Green
mike14 said:
My assumption is it would be fine, but are there any likely issues with hanging a bike frame off the ground by either front or rear axle? Got a currently wheelless frame that zee wife is nagging me to get out of the way
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Given the stresses that go through the axles when you're riding, hanging the bike by them won't be an issue at all!
 
Mr Crudley

Mr Crudley

Glock in your sock
ozzybmx said:
I have used finish line wet lube in every freehub for many years since it was recommended to me instead of the expensive Chris King gipsy tears.
Works well and never had an issue in CK, DT, Hope and Tune.
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I've used TriFlow which, well, works like a lube should. When they get a bit noiser then a clean and relube does it.

Those expensive lubes from a manufacturer do seem like a rort.
 
safreek

safreek

*******
Dales Cannon said:
BIL rang me from the middle of nowhere because his Shimano brakes were full of air, don't ask why he didn't check before going thousands of km west. Anyway told him to use baby oil and while he was at it fill the reservoirs and do what you did then the rubber band trick overnight and top up. Worked fine and when I checked the brakes after he returned they were still rock firm and smelled amazing. I didn't change it.
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It does smell really good, will give the rubber band idea a go tomorrow just to make sure they are airfree.

Got me fucked why people do proper bleeds, the old reservoir trick works a treat. Worked with older shimmy brakes as well
 
safreek

safreek

*******
Mr Crudley said:
I've used TriFlow which, well, works like a lube should. When they get a bit noiser then a clean and relube does it.

Those expensive lubes from a manufacturer do seem like a rort.
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I use triflow on just about anything, triflow and acetone combined got the Cannondale main bearing freed up and moving.

Is there nothing triflow can't do ;)
 
Dales Cannon

Dales Cannon

lightbrain about 4pm
Staff member
safreek said:
It does smell really good, will give the rubber band idea a go tomorrow just to make sure they are airfree.

Got me fucked why people do proper bleeds, the old reservoir trick works a treat. Worked with older shimmy brakes as well
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It's not a replacement for a proper bleed but can help and when you are stuck in bumfuck qld 4,000km from a bike shop and have no bleed kit... it can get you back riding. Don't forget bleeding gets rid of the old fluid and any sludge or muck that is in the calipers.
 
Labcanary

Labcanary

One potato, two potato, click
safreek said:
Got me fucked why people do proper bleeds, the old reservoir trick works a treat. Worked with older shimmy brakes as well
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Because contaminants can get past the seals, as well as air getting in the system. A full brake bleed is a good idea from time to time to flush the air and contaminants out. Think about everytime you use your brakes, you pull the lever and there's a bore piston that pushes the fluid from lever to caliper. The calipers have 2-4 pistons (depending on your brake model) that move each time you use the brakes. The pads wear, the caliper pistons stay out a little more each time, the lever starts to feel mushy because you have the same amount of fluid in there but more space for the fluid to have to fill behind the pistons to move them.

Topping up fluid is ok for a quick fix, but if you're changing pads, or it's been a while and the brakes feel like shit, a full bleed should be done.
 
safreek

safreek

*******
Dales Cannon said:
It's not a replacement for a proper bleed but can help and when you are stuck in bumfuck qld 4,000km from a bike shop and have no bleed kit... it can get you back riding. Don't forget bleeding gets rid of the old fluid and any sludge or muck that is in the calipers.
Click to expand...
Labcanary said:
Because contaminants can get past the seals, as well as air getting in the system. A full brake bleed is a good idea from time to time to flush the air and contaminants out. Think about everytime you use your brakes, you pull the lever and there's a bore piston that pushes the fluid from lever to caliper. The calipers have 2-4 pistons (depending on your brake model) that move each time you use the brakes. The pads wear, the caliper pistons stay out a little more each time, the lever starts to feel mushy because you have the same amount of fluid in there but more space for the fluid to have to fill behind the pistons to move them.

Topping up fluid is ok for a quick fix, but if you're changing pads, or it's been a while and the brakes feel like shit, a full bleed should be done.
Click to expand...
Guess it makes sense
 
Mr Crudley

Mr Crudley

Glock in your sock
safreek said:
I use triflow on just about anything, triflow and acetone combined got the Cannondale main bearing freed up and moving.

Is there nothing triflow can't do ;)
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It is great stuff. The first lube I've used on my MTB since BITD.

I use it on the hair clipper blades after my backyard haircuts. :) I normally use it more in winter on my chains and keep waxy dry lubes for summer.

Will keep Triflow + acetone in mind as a penetrative fluid. Great tip sir.

I prefer the Triflow smell to WD40 but have to admit that there isn't that much in it.
 
safreek

safreek

*******
Hello again, I have these lovely Z150 forks I picked up the other day. I have done a small bit of research and the articles mention it's coil with air assist, fucked if I see any valves.

Are the valves under the gold knobs, left is ETA and right seems to be rebound as twiddling it seems to slow rebound :rolleyes: or non existent. The photos are the same colour (color) as my fork.

Thank you very kindly for any assistance :)
image000000 (31).jpg
image000001 (10).jpg
 
Lucaw

Lucaw

Next in line
safreek said:
Hello again, I have these lovely Z150 forks I picked up the other day. I have done a small bit of research and the articles mention it's coil with air assist, fucked if I see any valves.

Are the valves under the gold knobs, left is ETA and right seems to be rebound as twiddling it seems to slow rebound :rolleyes: or non existent. The photos are the same colour (color) as my fork.

Thank you very kindly for any assistance :)
View attachment 399612View attachment 399613
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Weird, on mine the air valve was on the left, but it also looked different
Screenshot_20230515_181011_Gallery.jpg
 
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