The QUICK question thread.....

Ok Sydney people, it is your time to help...


Hornsby jumps are currently deceased so I am looking for some new places to rips some skids and case the B lines. I am already familiar with:
- jubes
- bare creek
- castle Cove
- the moo
- narra

Yes i know some of those locations are more trail less jumps. Ideally I am looking for some jumps of a similar level of challenge to the big line from hornsby or (for those that know them) the pump action jumps at glenrock and accessible from a train or ferry (let's say within 5km). Dont be telling any secrets, just the publicly known jumps please? The deal is i often make a trek to Sydney with my bike for a bit of a ride and dinning on my midweek days off, which usually coincides with when most reasonable dinning options at home are closed.



I dont need the imminent death jumps for those aspiring to red bull sponsorship.
Why not buy one of these and take the jump with you, do some urban freeride 🤙





Or for the more budget conscious...

 
Why not buy one of these and take the jump with you, do some urban freeride 🤙

two of those ramps, four switchable magnets.. and some appropriately spaced parked cars...
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Ha...dont think I havent considered such items in the past. When I was taking teenagers mountain biking I built a bunch of portable north shore and a sweet kicker for carpark tomfoolery. When placed correctly a lot of fun can be achieved.
 
Which freight forwarding company is a good choice for getting about 10kg of tractor parts out of the US? Kubota restricts sales off shore even though it is a made in US by Kubota US and I cannot buy here or from Japan.
 
Which freight forwarding company is a good choice for getting about 10kg of tractor parts out of the US? Kubota restricts sales off shore even though it is a made in US by Kubota US and I cannot buy here or from Japan.
I've used Myus. May not be the cheapest but very good service.

I might be able to get you a sign up special deal if you PM me.

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Does a handlebar have an operational lifespan? I've had my Chromag FU50 since I bought the Ragley (2021), and I've dropped it a few time, and wondered if I should consider a new bar such as the PNW Range alloy bar.
 
Does a handlebar have an operational lifespan? I've had my Chromag FU50 since I bought the Ragley (2021), and I've dropped it a few time, and wondered if I should consider a new bar such as the PNW Range alloy bar.
If you are asking the question, the answer is yes. It's 'probably' fine, yet alloy doesn't live forever. Pop it in the parts bin, make a cool door handle, or just bin them. Get new alloy bars so it doesn't play on your mind.
 
Depends what it is and what its used for .
On a gravel bike carbon or alloy will last indefinitely .
Dropping a mountain bike no it wont last for ever but depends how solidly its built. since most are built with compromises strength ,weight and price to quote an aphorism .
I have broken an alloy going off a drop off and broken a carbon pulling up going round a tight corner.
I dont recommend it.
 
Does a handlebar have an operational lifespan? I've had my Chromag FU50 since I bought the Ragley (2021), and I've dropped it a few time, and wondered if I should consider a new bar such as the PNW Range alloy bar.
7050 is a pretty decent alloy (in terms of aging/over-aging/fatigue/lifetime)

Chromag say:
For most users, our alloy bars should last as long as your bike in normal riding circumstances.
*While the fatigue rate on our bars is very high, if you are an extreme user, like a competitive racer/trainer, or you do an extremely high volume of riding via lift access, then we advise you to replace your bar every 2 years.
If you have a major crash, we recommend replacing your bars. You should frequently inspect your bars for bends or signs of damage.

so, is much more about physical damage, than the bar losing strength or becoming brittle or fatigue failure
(technically 7050 can be re-aged but....)
 
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7050 is a pretty decent alloy (in terms of aging/over-aging/fatigue/lifetime)

Chromag say:
For most users, our alloy bars should last as long as your bike in normal riding circumstances.
*While the fatigue rate on our bars is very high, if you are an extreme user, like a competitive racer/trainer, or you do an extremely high volume of riding via lift access, then we advise you to replace your bar every 2 years.
If you have a major crash, we recommend replacing your bars. You should frequently inspect your bars for bends or signs of damage.

so, is much more about physical damage, than the bar losing strength of becoming brittle or fatigue failure
(technically 7050 can be re-aged but....)

I haven't had a major crash, just a few tumbles but nothing as bad as hitting a boulder etc.
 
Aluminium has a fatigue memory, in that every flex/unflex cycle microscopically weakens the material, until it will eventually fail. Bars are engineered so that in normal use they'll last at least the life of the bike, but in more demanding situations may fail sooner. Crashing, even little ones, will contribute to weakening the bar over time.
 
So to follow on from this - has anyone tried the PNW Range/Loam bar with 10 degree backsweep? Is it a noticeable difference?

I'm looking for a bit more wrist/hand comfort without feeling like I'm riding cowhorns!
 
I have SQLab bars with 12deg backsweep on my flat-bar gravel/XC bike. I like them for that purpose, but their is something ever so slightly NQR when trying to do aggressive descending with them, the wrist position makes it a bit harder to brave against the bars in the 'attack' position (IMO). JRA is comfier/more ergonomically positioned though.

Just remember, depending on bar design - high-backsweep bars can require longer stems to get the hands in the same position. I found +25mm stem length to get the same hand position comparing 12deg to 7deg backsweep on my setups.
 
So to follow on from this - has anyone tried the PNW Range/Loam bar with 10 degree backsweep? Is it a noticeable difference?

I'm looking for a bit more wrist/hand comfort without feeling like I'm riding cowhorns!


How high above the head tube are your grips at the moment? I am not a fan of much back sweep. I find it makes the steering feel rather wobbly and out of control. But I do like a bit of rise, achievable through spacers, stem angles, and of course bars.
 
So to follow on from this - has anyone tried the PNW Range/Loam bar with 10 degree backsweep? Is it a noticeable difference?

I'm looking for a bit more wrist/hand comfort without feeling like I'm riding cowhorns!
Yes, I rate them. Just bought a second bar for my other bike (and a new stem*)

I went from Spank Spoon and Spike bars with 8° degrees backsweep.

*I did end up going 10mm longer on my stem as the 2° backsweep ends up being ~5-10mm across the grips...
 
I tried heaps of different options with the cockpit of my flat bar gravel bike to get comfy on longer rides. Haven’t looked back since getting Protaper 2020s, 20deg backsweep ftw. Wouldn’t work with an actual mtb though
 
I had a 5-deg backsweep on my ex-#2 bike, but found it a bit too straight & it put my wrists at a weird angle. When I built New-#1 I went to a 9-deg. sweep on the same width, and it feels a lot more natural hand position. I didn't notice any real difference in reach or handling, just more comfortable. My bar is flat, but I have it rolled forward a touch to give a little bit of upsweep as well.
 
How high above the head tube are your grips at the moment? I am not a fan of much back sweep. I find it makes the steering feel rather wobbly and out of control. But I do like a bit of rise, achievable through spacers, stem angles, and of course bars.

I have a 642mm stack height, a Nukeproof Horizon 50mm stem (5 degree rise) with 10mm spacers, and a 50mm Chromag FU50 riser bar.
 
I've probably posted this before, but here it is.

Lee likes bikes has some wacky ideas, but this kind of made sense to me. Cued it up for the important part, 'cos these two waffle on like no one else.





EDIT: This is how I ended up buying the PNW Range bars.
 
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