The QUICK question thread.....

Calvin27

Eats Squid
You didn’t answer the Q though.
Yep sorry, clamps under a half circle washer. FD is gRX600, the idea of that is there is a grub screw that puses another piece to turn the washer thereby tensioning the cable. right not though anything i do it just slips out.
 

moorey

Priapically Persistant Prat
Yep sorry, clamps under a half circle washer. FD is gRX600, the idea of that is there is a grub screw that puses another piece to turn the washer thereby tensioning the cable. right not though anything i do it just slips out.
I’ve had that little clamping plate bend, and not hold the cable. Don’t know about FD’s and yours particularly, but I did up mine with the plate not seated straight once, and it bent it.
Probs not yours issue...but worth checking.
 

Calvin27

Eats Squid
I’ve had that little clamping plate bend, and not hold the cable. Don’t know about FD’s and yours particularly, but I did up mine with the plate not seated straight once, and it bent it.
Probs not yours issue...but worth checking.
Cheers, I'll have a look. But take your point that if it's stuffed, probably time to ditch it. Even on a gravel bike it's a bit pointless having a double so long as it can clear the granny range.
 

pink poodle

Our man isn't in the West
Got an old tube @Calvin27? You could cut a tiny piece and get it in there to act as a squeeze on the cable.

Roadies with a 1x set up are a lot less offensive.
 

Flow-Rider

Wheel size expert
Cheers, I'll have a look. But take your point that if it's stuffed, probably time to ditch it. Even on a gravel bike it's a bit pointless having a double so long as it can clear the granny range.
Put a pic up, sounds weird like something is on arse about.
 

The Duckmeister

Has stumpy thumbs, Speciaized are so weird
Yep sorry, clamps under a half circle washer. FD is gRX600, the idea of that is there is a grub screw that puses another piece to turn the washer thereby tensioning the cable. right not though anything i do it just slips out.
GRX and the related family of road front derailleurs can be a bit temperamental to set up. Start by winding the Low limit screw in to push the derailleur out until the outer face of the cage aligns with the outer face of the big ring teeth. Adjust the support screw (through the derailleur body and resting against the frame or hanger) so the cage is parallel with the rings. Next wind the adjuster screw out so you can push the adjuster pusher arm thing all the way in, and, crucially, turn the rotary clamp assembly clockwise so it's located against the end of the pusher. If it's not, it will pull around and detension the cable on the first shift.

With that all set, make sure the shifter is in its fully released position; it needs a second press to get the final cable release. At this point there is a bit of "flop" in the derailleur body; push it up to take out the play, pull firm tension on the cable and clamp it snugly, then reset the Low limit to where it needs to be. All things being right and proper, it should then be sorted.

If after all that it's still pulling through the clamp, it's likely the thread in the derailleur body which the clamp assembly screws into is stuffed; it's not very deep so can be prone to stripping if mistreated.
 

The Duckmeister

Has stumpy thumbs, Speciaized are so weird
The last couple of generations of Shimano road FDs need a truckload of cable tension. Using the low limit is the only way to get that last necessary bit.
 

Calvin27

Eats Squid
If after all that it's still pulling through the clamp, it's likely the thread in the derailleur body which the clamp assembly screws into is stuffed; it's not very deep so can be prone to stripping if mistreated.
Yeah did it the way you describe. The threads seem to be ok and tighten and lock on, the tension screw and mechanism seem to work as well. All looks good and working when on low limit but as soon as i shift to the big ring, cable slips.

I am thinking of trying some carbon paste on the cable or something but fear this might make it a bigger problem and polish the surfaces.
 

tobbogonist

a registered member
Rear brake is mildly juddery when I get to about half pressure. Ive got to pull the bike apart at the end of May for moving and don't have a lot of spare time until then.
Am I going to cause any major damage on my weekly totter along the river or should I be fine.
I've re-aligned the calipers but cannot afford the time to troubleshoot further. I think maybe rotors are contaminated.
 

pink poodle

Our man isn't in the West
Rear brake is mildly juddery when I get to about half pressure. Ive got to pull the bike apart at the end of May for moving and don't have a lot of spare time until then.
Am I going to cause any major damage on my weekly totter along the river or should I be fine.
I've re-aligned the calipers but cannot afford the time to troubleshoot further. I think maybe rotors are contaminated.
As long as caliper and rotor are on tight you should be fine, though underperforming brakes may be a risk to your personal safety.

If the rotor is contaminated so are the pads.
 

tobbogonist

a registered member
Thanks man. Ive got new pads to go on when i service it in Tas.
Should be fine im only riding along gravel paths trying to hold onto some fitness. If i run over a kid i run over a kid..
 

beeb

beebenson
As long as caliper and rotor are on tight you should be fine, though underperforming brakes may be a risk to your personal safety.

If the rotor is contaminated so are the pads.
What the heck? On-topic response... No sarcasm... No easily-missed joke that can be dangerously misinterpreted... Who are you and what have you done with Pink Poodle!?! o_O

I thought he should grease and loctite his rotor braking surfaces for the right blend of slip and friction! :p
 

leitch

Feelin' a bit rrranty
Yeah did it the way you describe. The threads seem to be ok and tighten and lock on, the tension screw and mechanism seem to work as well. All looks good and working when on low limit but as soon as i shift to the big ring, cable slips.

I am thinking of trying some carbon paste on the cable or something but fear this might make it a bigger problem and polish the surfaces.
Have you got a picture of it? It took me a few goes to get my R8000 FD working right - including some cable slipping too - and it came down to cable routing... the little tension adjuster plate thing is a real PITA.
 
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