T47 retrofit for PF30 ti frame - worth it? Availability of T47 BBs?

[Binaural]

So, I have a custom ti frame made by Velofix that I love dearly, and which I use every day to ride to work. I love that bike dearly except for the fact I was foolish enough to buy it with a PF30 BB. It's squeaked like a mouse threesome ever since under even light loads. For a while after initial installation it seemed to work, but a few weeks later the creak was back. I'm about 110kg so it doesn't have an easy life, but it's still super irritating.

(before we get too far down the road of diagnosing alternative sources: I've just replaced the wheels, pedals and drivetrain for other reasons and the creak is unchanged).

Currently, I am using a thread-together wheels mfg BB installed with loctite 609, using activator. I've been quoted around $200 to get the BB threaded and converted to a T47 BB. I'm willing to spend this but have a couple of concerns - all thoughts appreciated!

• There really doesn't seem to be many T47 BBs around, at least at the usual suspects. Has this standard really taken off at all? Am I going to be able to find these in a couple of years?
• I suspect that the reason the current frame creaks is that the ID of the BB shell is too loose. Is there any risk that cut threads would still be prone to creaking?

 

[mtb101]

is there enough metal to cut a thread into bb shell wouldn't want it cracking. then there's q factor gain.

have you looked at seat and seat post. as source of creaking?

think what you've done is a good set up. you could remove the thread-together and measure external/internal to confirm clearance fit.

 

[Binaural]

If it were to be a wildcard, it could be my Red cranks. I had an old pair I had to bin because the pedal insert separated from the crankarm, but not enough so you could feel it while riding.

Seat post also creaks a little, but faintly and it takes about 6 months to a year to develop. Replaced creaky seat a year ago as I actually cracked the body and it was fouling a little on the head of the seatpost. Cursed, probably.

 

[Oddjob]

The Hope is the better thread together bb. There is a thread on mtbr discussing the problems with the wheels mfg one. No idea about the Token one but I recall someone on here having a good experience with one. If you need the hope bb tool let me know as I have one you can borrow.

The t47 option does not look promising https://www.kogel.cc/blogs/kbba/t47-the-good-the-bad-and-the-availability

I recall someone had some success with an expanding loctite, 680?

Have you put grip paste on all mating surfaces like saddle rails etc?

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[Haakon]

I have one of these (well, another brand that I cant remember but its identical to this) in my carbon Giant Defy - its been faultless for some years (as opposed to the creaky PF that was in there before...).

https://www.mountainbikesdirect.com.au/wheels-manufacturing-pf30-threaded-bottom-bracket

Seems like an easier and safer option than cutting into your frame?

 

[Binaural]

@Oddjob - good advice, thanks again! There's more mating paste in there than a panda breeding enclosure.

@Haakon - that's the creaky fucker I've got in my bike right now, and even the shop I bought it from. Even when snuggled in with 609, it's still creaking under light loads. Pretty sure that it isn't to blame, as there's only so far it can go in compensating for overly loose shell IDs.

 

[bear the bear]

So, I have a custom ti frame made by Velofix that I love dearly, and which I use every day to ride to work. I love that bike dearly except for the fact I was foolish enough to buy it with a PF30 BB. It's squeaked like a mouse threesome ever since under even light loads. For a while after initial installation it seemed to work, but a few weeks later the creak was back. I'm about 110kg so it doesn't have an easy life, but it's still super irritating.

(before we get too far down the road of diagnosing alternative sources: I've just replaced the wheels, pedals and drivetrain for other reasons and the creak is unchanged).

Currently, I am using a thread-together wheels mfg BB installed with loctite 609, using activator. I've been quoted around $200 to get the BB threaded and converted to a T47 BB. I'm willing to spend this but have a couple of concerns - all thoughts appreciated!

• There really doesn't seem to be many T47 BBs around, at least at the usual suspects. Has this standard really taken off at all? Am I going to be able to find these in a couple of years?
• I suspect that the reason the current frame creaks is that the ID of the BB shell is too loose. Is there any risk that cut threads would still be prone to creaking?

Have you tried the Praxis version?
https://praxiscycles.com/product/shimano-conversion-bb/
Different system using an expanding collet

 

[Binaural]

@bear the bear I wanted to use that one, but you need to have a Shimano crank. I've already got a SRAM BB30 Red crank that cost me a pretty penny, otherwise I'd have gone for that. Shame, for sure.

@Oddjob - this looks like the Hope in question. Excellent article and well explained. https://www.bikemag.com/gear/hope-tech-vs-wheels-mfg/

 

[bear the bear]

Then what about this?
https://praxiscycles.com/product/m30thru-bb30pf30-73mm-mtb/

 

[hifiandmtb]

@bear the bear I wanted to use that one, but you need to have a Shimano crank. I've already got a SRAM BB30 Red crank that cost me a pretty penny, otherwise I'd have gone for that. Shame, for sure.

@Oddjob - this looks like the Hope in question. Excellent article and well explained. https://www.bikemag.com/gear/hope-tech-vs-wheels-mfg/

What an utterly excellent article!

 

[Haakon]

@Oddjob - good advice, thanks again! There's more mating paste in there than a panda breeding enclosure.

@Haakon - that's the creaky fucker I've got in my bike right now, and even the shop I bought it from. Even when snuggled in with 609, it's still creaking under light loads. Pretty sure that it isn't to blame, as there's only so far it can go in compensating for overly loose shell IDs.

Doh, shouldn’t speed read things...

The one I have has a nylon collar on the interface, that might be then go - the alloy-ti interface you have now would indeed rely on tolerances being perfect...

http://cycletaiwan.com/tripeak-bb86...imano-sram-campy-bb386-crankset-road-mtb.html


You might want this one http://cycletaiwan.com/tripeak-4-in...b30a-pf30-pf30a-to-shimano-24mm-crankset.html

Has the nylon interface part as well.

 

[Oddjob]

Personally I'd just go the Hope and maybe use some teflon tape to take up some of the slack in the tolerances. I'm down the road from you and have the Hope tool. The Hope can also accept Enduro acb bearings and I have the tools to pull them and press them.

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[Oddjob]

Oh and while you're here you can try my xl Lynskey with bsa bb and Dura-ace and ponder why Sram and pf can eat a bag of noisy dicks. ;p

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[fatboyonabike]

could be worse
I have the exact same problem, but its on my fatbike..
it has 100mm wide bb shell, very limited options.
I had to run a wheels mfg 100mm pf30, with 30 to 24mm shims to allow me to use my Raceface Atlas cranks.....next step is earplugs!
I might strip down and go nutty with the white lithium grease, see if that helps