Sram brakes locking, is there a fix?

Nambra

Definitely should have gone to specsavers
If you go to the LBS, push them to have the SRAM distributor fix this under warranty. There is NO statute of limitation for warranty in Australian consumer law (where the fault is an original defect in manufacture or design). I had same issue recently on 2yr old brakes - it was fixed at no cost under warranty. SRAM are well aware of this issue, as they had to re-design the master cylinder piston. My front brakes were fixed with a one week turn-around. (Rear brakes still running fine).

If you want to do it yourself, order a "Guide RSC Ultimate Internal Kit - Gen-2" Part # 11.5018.005.010
OP didn't mention what version of Guides they had - if I'm not mistaken the RSC internals are different to R/RS because of the contact point adjustment. Should be able to find the right kit here: https://www.mountainbikesdirect.com.au/sram-avid-lever-internals-service-kit

But as everyone else says, SRAM should sort it out for nix.
 

The Duckmeister

Has a juicy midrange
One point on this. MTB brakes are all (correction: mostly) open systems, every time you release the brakes the piston allows the pressure in the brake line to equalize with an air pocket in the lever body (hence "open"). Provided this air space is large enough to not act as a spring , that means that the brake pads won't actually push in over time, but the fluid will be more prone to local boiling at the caliper due to the water content.
Just as a slight additive to this I can hear the questions of "how do they keep the air out?". Well under the reservoir cap there's a runbber(oid) bladder that keeps the air separate from the fluid, and a breather hole between the cap and bladder to allow air pressure balancing between the reservoir and Outside. When the brake is frequently used the springiness of the piston seals sets the pad clearance and makes the brake somewhat self-adjusting for pad wear, and as fluid is moved from the reservoir to the caliper, more air is allowed into the pocket on the other side of the bladder. If the pads are getting worn and/or the bike is left for a long time unused, the spacer spring can push the pads & pistons right back, pushing the fluid back up to the reservoir and the air out of the balancing chamber, so that when you grab the brake the first time you'll get a long lever stroke and will need to pump the brake a few times to restore system pressure.
 

The Duckmeister

Has a juicy midrange
There's no air vented to atmosphere and the brake fluid is not in direct contact with the air. The only way moisture can get into the break fluid is via the seals or if a component is porous.
Precisely as I said earlier; the action of the pistons through the seals leaves a thin film of brake fluid on the sides of the pistons. Mineral oil is a wtaer repellant, so will not pull moisture in past the seals. However the various grades of DOT fluids will absorb moisture on a molecular scale to varying degrees. That fine film of DOT 5.1 juice on the sides of your brake pistons will constantly attract moisture out of the air and pull it in to the fluid filling the brake system.

It is because there is no air transfer to Outside, while water molecules are drawn into the system that the fluid volume increases, which can cause the brakes to jam on.

Incidentally, and not fully explained previously, the issue that afflicted the early Guide brakes wan't increased moisture absorption jamming the brake, it was a master piston flaw that prevented fluid from being drawn back into the cylinder when the lever was released, causing the brake to stay on; first pull of the lever would be normal travel, but it'd pull in & stay in, and the next pull of the lever woul ram the brake on harder. By contrast, a brake jammed by swollen fluid would have no lever travel at all, and in bad cases pads that are pushed hard onto the rotor by fluid pressure while the lever is fully extended.
 

Nambra

Definitely should have gone to specsavers
All great info Duck. When I had a set of Guides jam up on me a couple of years ago (which SRAM fixed for me no questions asked), I asked myself the whole "why DOT instead of mineral oil" question and did some reading at the time. I thought this was quite a good read that explained things well: http://www.epicbleedsolutions.com/blog/dot-brake-fluid-vs-mineral-oil/

Basically DOT works well when it's fresh and performance degrades over time as it absorbs moisture, and mineral oil can be problematic if you somehow have water in your brakes. That said, the fact that you can run Shimano brakes and not have to bleed them for a decade suggests that in practical terms, not that much water gets into your brake to really cause an issue.

I'm with @Dozer though, I'm running Guides for now as I like the lever feel and modulation. Yes they need an annual bleed, especially in the humid tropics, but it's just one task in the many elements of bike maintenance such as cleaning, lubing etc.
 

Duane

Likes Bikes and Dirt
Possibly the greatest component ever bolted to a bike. Hang on to them forever!
I have 2 sets, one on DH and one on Enduro. Tried Saint/Zee, Guide RSC etc, still prefer my Codes. Not tried the new Sram codes but the base version might be oem on my next bike.
I need to get a couple of service kits so I can keep them going.
I'm happy they kept the same pad configuration with the "sram" codes.
 

Dozer

Heavy machinery.
Staff member
I have 2 sets, one on DH and one on Enduro. Tried Saint/Zee, Guide RSC etc, still prefer my Codes. Not tried the new Sram codes but the base version might be oem on my next bike.
I need to get a couple of service kits so I can keep them going.
I'm happy they kept the same pad configuration with the "sram" codes.
I've got the new Codes, they are just as good mate. Amongst the AVid Codes I had, I also ran a set of Avid Code R's for ages, had them on every trail bike for the last 7 years and only just now sold them on to a local pinner who is chucking them on a new Aurum, he's pumped on them too.
 

link1896

Mr Greenfield
Good to see this one didn't turn into a massive shit fight.

I'll add my bit for some poor sod googling/searching his way here and will try to wrap it all up in one post.

To avoid confusion, easiest way to describe a brake system that is "open" is one that returns the system pressure to ambient when the lever is in the out/off position. Air does not contact the dot fluid. There is a rubber membrane separating fluid and air. Go find a Guide service manual if you really want to appreciate.

The older avids and newer SRAM brakes all feature open system. Sadly the bladder system in the avids was pathetically small and didn't offer enough expansion room, thermal expansion and/or moisture absorption would exceed the bladders expansion capabilities resulting in pads grabbing rotors. Later bleed instructions had you pull the syringe at the lever out hard to pull the bladder in as much as possible, maximising expansion volume for future needs.

The Guides feature some innovative design balls up. Lever pistons ( aka master pistons) that would foul in the bore. It's a combination of factors in my view. Nylon pistons not machined to the right size. Nylon that swells in DOT fluid. Contamination getting into the exposed bore as there are no seals to the outside to stop dirt getting in, that scratches the bore, allowing dirt and moisture in.

A sticky lever piston, if you are familiar with the feel of the brakes, will result in a different lever feel, as there will be less resistance on the compression stroke of the lever.

I've seen some very dirty, 2-3 year old guides, I've never seen one with the bladder fully collapsed from fluid volume growth due to moisture absorption. I can think of one scenario not covered above. If the pads are worn out, someone does a bleed which fills the system and then new pads are installed at a later date and calliper pistons pushed in (to make way for thicker pads), pushing bladder at levers out, then thermal expansion will cause pads to lock onto rotor.

I own 9 sets of Guides. Vacuum bleeding is the answer. You push new fluid into the system in alternating directions, then pull a vacuum to pull the air out of the system. Surprisingly the cone shaped seal in the lever is fine with 3bar pressure and -0.98bar vacuum while bleeding.

Completely irrelevant to the above. Newest generation Guides with the Bleeding Edge callipers. Seems fluid turbulence and fluid sheering are concepts not understood by SRAM engineers. The bleeding edge banjo fittings opening is sub 1mm in diameter. No wonder the lever return is crappy.

I too love Guide's feel and modulation, and put up with the DOT fluid shenanigans.
 

link1896

Mr Greenfield
While looking at service kits on eBay , I found these. If using metal pistons, I'd strongly urge people to use red rubber grease to lube the shit out of the pistons. You'll find little tubs of red rubber grease (a dot compatible grease derived from vegetable) on eBay in little tubs. Or just get gouged and buy SRAMs DOT compatible grease.

Screw it. I've a massive tube of red rubber grease, hit me up on PM for a little tub if going this route.

 

slider_phil

Likes Bikes and Dirt
Should be able to get the red brake grease from any automotive place too. Stuff is cheap and plentiful.
 
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