Shock and fork servicing/upgrade recommendations

[kten]

May I ask how much did it cost to convert? Just a ballpark figure will do.

I have a cc helm coil and boxxer coil and loved both very much. I’ve been toying with the idea of push acs 3 on my lyrik. Seems cheaper than getting a brand new cc coil.

Cyclinic page lists $699 for upgrade (plus basic service). I'd assume that includes cost of ACS3 kit and spring? Considering ACS3 myself, seems easy enough to self install though.

Check out the Vorsprung Smashpot coil if you are considering going that way. Yes, it's a little heavier but the hydraulic bottom out feature is worth it's weight and outguns the pneumatic Push jobbie significantly. I had the Push and the Vorpsung at the same time at one point and much preferred the latter. Interestingly I could also be selling a Vorsprung kit to suit a Lyrik or a Fox36 (I've gone full air again)

 

[ozzybmx]

That indicator ring looks in bump stop territory...remember the Fox forks leave about 8mm of stanchion showing at bottom out from memory. I'm the same weight and started with the green spring in a Fox 36 @160 travel and then went up to the black as I felt the green was too soft and needed too much help from the air bump stop and didn't like the ramp up. The black was fine for race runs but for trail riding it was a little firm.

How sore are your ribs btw? If they are holding you back I would wait until they heal a little more before changing anything.....if they are still tender surely you'll be favouring Cadillac style comfort?

Thanks for that kten, something to think about. We have discussed on here a few times in different threads about my love for Cadillac comfort 100% of the time. I usually run a low pressure and like to get as near to full fork travel on every ride. My line is drawn in the sand years ago, I know where my boundary is as far as riding, jumps and hits... I dont race enduro so I need the fork set up for constant trail riding.

Ribs stopped grinding and clicking nearly a week ago, back to work on full duties and riding seems to be no issue, still tender but can easily manage a cough or sneeze now without dropping to my knees ... though a crash wouldn't be nice.

Here's the little DH run from a test vid I did when I got the Hero8, I did 2 runs of this last night to test the new coil conversion, its rougher than it looks and has a few small jumps and rocky sections, I would expect to be at/over 80% into travel on this track on my old settings + going on my max 20% sag I reckon this may be slightly too firm. Will wait to see what Cyclinic says.

 

[ozzybmx]

May I ask how much did it cost to convert? Just a ballpark figure will do.

I have a cc helm coil and boxxer coil and loved both very much. I’ve been toying with the idea of push acs 3 on my lyrik. Seems cheaper than getting a brand new cc coil.

It was $770 including a full fork service, new damper, ACS3 with spring, extend travel to 160mm which was easy as I replaced the air spring and express postage in both directions.
FYI, the Grip2 conversion I was looking at was only $130 cheaper.

 

[Daniel Hale]

.
FYI, the Grip2 conversion I was looking at was only $130 cheaper.

grip 2 seems expensive then, better off buying another fork, or 2ndhand

 

[ozzybmx]

grip 2 seems expensive then, better off buying another fork, or 2ndhand

Ends up my FIT4 wasn't working correctly but by then I was told or read that the Grip2 hand nicer small bump feel so I was up for an upgrade of some sort.

 

[gillyske]

Can someone sanity check me.

2019 Lyrik RC 170mm, so I want more small bump sensitivty from my fork. I'm 94kg run it at 81psi which gets me 20% sag, no tokens, 4 clicks of LSC and about 10 clicks of rebound. If I run it at less PSI it will drive under braking and in berms but at 81psi it gets very chattery and ruins my poor arms.

Is the idea behind tokens that I can run less sag (30% ?), get more small bump compliance but still get support under braking and in berms?

 

[Daniel Hale]

2019 Lyrik RC, so I want more small bump sensitivty from my fork. I'm 94kg run it at 81psi which gets me 20% sag, no tokens, 4 clicks of LSC and about 10 clicks of rebound. If I run it at less PSI it will drive under braking and in berms but at 81psi it gets very chattery and ruins my poor arms.

if it diving i would think you need more lsc, but you aren’t happy with sml bumps either [which lsc controls]
81 psi seems low for 94kg & 20% sag, usually at my body weight equiv i get roughly 25%, eg 78kg, 75-80psi, at 67psi [% close to what you run] i’d be very close to 30% sag...maybe needs a service with low friction seals?

 

[herbman]

Can someone sanity check me.

2019 Lyrik RC, so I want more small bump sensitivty from my fork. I'm 94kg run it at 81psi which gets me 20% sag, no tokens, 4 clicks of LSC and about 10 clicks of rebound. If I run it at less PSI it will drive under braking and in berms but at 81psi it gets very chattery and ruins my poor arms.

Is the idea behind tokens that I can run less sag (30% ?), get more small bump compliance but still get support under braking and in berms?

Checked the lowers for air build up? most forks seem to suck in air as the cycle and it will build up over time making them feel harsh.

if its not air build up or in need of a rebuild, i would look at a larger aftermarket neg spring from the like of vorsprung. i have one in my 36s and the difference over the stock one is night and day on small bumps

 

[gillyske]

I've just had it serviced with low friction seals (first service btw, didnt open it up to check oil levels or anything from factory), yet to ride it post service however my sag didnt change.
Actuation of the fork is a lot smoother now though, maybe i should wait until i ride it before i mess with it. I'm going to falls creek this weekend, so I'll have a solid couple of days to play with the settings.

 

[kten]

I've just had it serviced with low friction seals (first service btw, didnt open it up to check oil levels or anything from factory), yet to ride it post service however my sag didnt change.
Actuation of the fork is a lot smoother now though, maybe i should wait until i ride it before i mess with it. I'm going to falls creek this weekend, so I'll have a solid couple of days to play with the settings.

Sag is imo too difficult to get consistently on a fork, too much stiction and slightly different body positioning can get varying results. I would put a little more psi in there (closer to 90) and ride it to see how it feels.

Air forks tend to let you know they are due for a lower bath service with small bump performance dropping off. It happens relatively quickly too but a lower leg service becomes autonomous and only takes 30mins when you do it a few times.

 

[Flow-Rider]

Here's the little DH run from a test vid I did when I got the Hero8, I did 2 runs of this last night to test the new coil conversion, its rougher than it looks and has a few small jumps and rocky sections, I would expect to be at/over 80% into travel on this track on my old settings + going on my max 20% sag I reckon this may be slightly too firm.

20% sag is about where you want a coil spring, don't forget that they have linear spring rates unlike the air springs that ramp up from the word go. I would first try the forks with the HSC & LSC backed off all the way on a trail that doesn't have big drops or jumps, if the forks run smooth it's the dampener. You want the fork to stay in the coil spring stage for most of your riding as that's where it will be the smoothest. Push also recommend you use their seal kit with their kits to lower seal stiction.

 

[gillyske]

Sag is imo too difficult to get consistently on a fork, too much stiction and slightly different body positioning can get varying results. I would put a little more psi in there (closer to 90) and ride it to see how it feels.

Air forks tend to let you know they are due for a lower bath service with small bump performance dropping off. It happens relatively quickly too but a lower leg service becomes autonomous and only takes 30mins when you do it a few times.

So I bumped it up to 90 psi, no LSC and like 7 clicks of dampening and it felt immeasurably more supportive and even a tad more supple.
I was trying to follow the rockshox calculator but still managed to misinterpret it. -7 clicks means -7 clicks from fully damepened, not +7 clicks from fully open... so now I gotta do another ride to see what that feels like.

 

[ozzybmx]

Apparently DVO Diamond and Onxy...

I have been having strange stuff happen with my OTT settings on my DVO Onyx.

Was noticing it was changing from where I set it previously so over the last 2 weeks I set at 7, next things its 10, then to confirm again I set it at 6 next thing its 8.5.

I marked it today and checked every 2-3km... and watched that knob wind itself in just over 1 full turn on a short ride.

Seems its a widespread issue called 'OTT wind in' where the OTT adjuster winds itself in with fork use.

There are 100's of posts over on MTBR and the most common solution is to drill it and wire it or split pin it.

So its been done this afternoon... only a 1.5mm hole and a piece of 1.2mm wire through it. Will keep me going over the school hols (wherever we go).

I'll look at another solution like the 3D printed caps that someone is selling.
Unsightly but once the wire is removed the tiny hole is unnoticeable.

Will look at these caps or similar after x-mas when I get some time.

 

[Litenbror]

Apparently DVO Diamond and Onxy...

I have been having strange stuff happen with my OTT settings on my DVO Onyx.

Was noticing it was changing from where I set it previously so over the last 2 weeks I set at 7, next things its 10, then to confirm again I set it at 6 next thing its 8.5.

I marked it today and checked every 2-3km... and watched that knob wind itself in just over 1 full turn on a short ride.

Seems its a widespread issue called 'OTT wind in' where the OTT adjuster winds itself in with fork use.

There are 100's of posts over on MTBR and the most common solution is to drill it and wire it or split pin it.

So its been done this afternoon... only a 1.5mm hole and a piece of 1.2mm wire through it. Will keep me going over the school hols (wherever we go).

I'll look at another solution like the 3D printed caps that someone is selling.
Unsightly but once the wire is removed the tiny hole is unnoticeable.

View attachment 383723


Will look at these caps or similar after x-mas when I get some time.

View attachment 383724View attachment 383725

I read about this and have been keeping an eye on my diamond to see if it was happening. Nothing yet but that doesn't mean it won't happen.

Fixing up the 3d printer at the moment (new main board just arrived) so can print you one up in the next few weeks if you like?

 

[ozzybmx]

I read about this and have been keeping an eye on my diamond to see if it was happening. Nothing yet but that doesn't mean it won't happen.

Fixing up the 3d printer at the moment (new main board just arrived) so can print you one up in the next few weeks if you like?

Legend !

That would be awesome