Rock Climbing

[wesdadude]

Any body else on here a climber? I've was climbing semi-regularly last year and I'm looking to get back into it on a regular basis. I'm at a grade 15-16 climbs wise.

I've decided I should invest in a harness and some shoes. What should I be looking for in entry level to mid range gear? Which are the popular retailers?

Thanks,
Wes

 

[ForkinGreat]

Ex-climber here... ok, it's well worn general advice - go try the harness and shoes on. you won't know what fits your foot properly or what harness is right for you size wise.

it's worth paying the extra $$ to get your harness and shoes from a local shop, IMO. A good shop will often have an anchor point bolted to the ceiling or off a beam that you can try out a harness with. The way a harness fits when you are hanging in it off the ground is pretty crucial. don't showroom a good climbing shop just to save a few bucks.

buy your nuts, cams, draws and rope online by all means.

I found La Sportiva Mythos shoes to be comfy all-rounders for doing longer routes outside. La Sportiva Katanas (velcro strap slippers) for harder stuff. V tight, and easy to get off feet to get circulation back. Unless you are doing hard bouldery thin edge climbing, you wont need foot-torture devices. Comfy being a relative term with climbing shoes. The tighter they are, generally the more control and precision you have. Some shoes will fit your foot better than others, obviously.

First Harness I had was a Rock Empire, bit of a cheapy but ok for climbing Gyms. Moved up to a Wild Country Harness, can't remember the model but much better adjustments and fit.

 

[climberman]

Hi mate no idea what are OK retailers in WA.

If you buy online the Austrlian retailers
http://www.rockhardware.com.au/ and
http://climbinganchors.com.au/

are both people I've had no problems dealing with before.

Looks like nice rock in WA, if a little spread out. Enjoy.

 

[ajay]

Good advice from Forkingreat. Follow his advice, especially on shoes. There plenty of good brands, but go for the fit before the brand name.

I use 2 pairs - 5:10s for bouldering or any technical/edgy climbing. And another pair for slab climbing where you need to be able to smear a lot. Considering you'll rarely, if ever, encounter slabby climbs in a gym, a semi aggressive style of shoe generally work well in gyms.

Try to get to a bouldering gym on semi regular basis too, great for developing your technique and strength. You'll be happy you did when you're 3/4s the way up a climb, youre at the crux and your arms are baked.

Are you planning to climb outdoors? If not, don't go over board on a big trad harness. A lightweight sport harness will be plenty - I use one outdoors for trad stuff anyway so they're pretty versatile.

If you've got a regular partner, share the gear buying so you don't double up on kit.

Have fun and keep some rigid tape in your kit!

 

[wesdadude]

Thanks for the responses. It's mainly gym climbing at this point although the intention is to improve and take some lead climbing courses and get out in the open. I enjoy abseiling too but my buddy reckons it's a bit dull in comparison.

 

[ajay]

Thanks for the responses. It's mainly gym climbing at this point although the intention is to improve and take some lead climbing courses and get out in the open. I enjoy abseiling too but my buddy reckons it's a bit dull in comparison.

Haha yeah abseiling is a way to get down if you can't top out. Definitely do your lead climbing ticket, makes gyms much more fun and builds confidence when you're inevitably climbing above your protection.

 

[foxpuppet]

I'm also getting into this awesome sport! In Sydney though.
Got myself some scarpa shoes earlier in the year for a hefty discount and a harness half price from the climbing gym in St Leonard's
I luckily live right opposite a nice little crag that's pretty popular, hoping to get down there and join in a group soon, but it's pretty difficult as far as I can see from the ratings on the crag website compared to what I've been doing indoors. Cool part about it though Is its all accessible to top rope.

 

[Nerf Herder]

Slowly getting back into it as well ... have brought the kids out and they are enjoying it ... but I'm belay slave until they can cope with my porky buttocks.

zip finger and arm strength + 10kgs has me far from peak.

 

[MARKL]

I'm also getting into this awesome sport! In Sydney though.
Got myself some scarpa shoes earlier in the year for a hefty discount and a harness half price from the climbing gym in St Leonard's
I luckily live right opposite a nice little crag that's pretty popular, hoping to get down there and join in a group soon, but it's pretty difficult as far as I can see from the ratings on the crag website compared to what I've been doing indoors. Cool part about it though Is its all accessible to top rope.

Been years since I climbed at Berowra but its a nice spot (except after rain). Good to top rope and get a feel for climbing on real rock. Learning to read the climbs is very different from the gym as the holds aren't colour coded - but you can use anything you can reach. And leading is a different adventure again. Don't get too concerned with the grades as they are just a number, obviously you won't be knocking over 34s but give the lower graded climbs a shot - remember the grades are on lead not top rope. If you take 'Ladder of Gloom' at Berowra, 19ish on lead - but fairly easy on top rope. Sometimes its a particular move that gives a climb its grade - again at Berowra 'Positive Ape Factor' has one hard move to make it 22 - if your 6'2'+ and have positive ape factor its an easy move, if your short with normal proportions....well sucks to be you.

Also when learning to lead don't let get sucked in by low numbers, an old school 14 will kill you 3 times before you get to the crux compared to a modern bolt protected sporty route with a much higher grade.

 

[steve jobs' pancreas]

Ah, the joy of breaking in a new pair of shoes.

I occasionally get the urge to go for a boulder, alas I fear I wouldn't be able to climb my way out of a wet paper bag these days.

 

[foxpuppet]

Ah, the joy of breaking in a new pair of shoes.

I occasionally get the urge to go for a boulder, alas I fear I wouldn't be able to climb my way out of a wet paper bag these days.

Mine were very good through break in.... But people thought I was diseased when they saw my feet after, the dye from the leather had soaked into my skin and resembled the plague or similar terrifying condition.

 

[steve jobs' pancreas]

my first pair were kattaks and they were a bastard to break in, I had to wear them for 20 mins at a time in the lounge room until my feet bent to their shape.

then bought a pair of 5.10 stealths that are now sitting in my cupboard, climbed in a couple of times, I cant remember why we gave the climbing away. The shoes would probably fit the boy now but I dunno how I feel about encouraging his foray into climbing, strange eh coz I loved it.

 

[The Duckmeister]

I've done a bit of indoor, the hard part is finding a regular climbing buddy. Never done any proper outdoor stuff beyond scrambling, but would like to give it a go sometime.

 

[steve jobs' pancreas]

i started out indoor climbing, answered an ad at the climbing gym for a buddy, in the end indoor twice a week became training for outdoor climbing on the weekend.

indoor is good fun and convenient, but for me outdoor is the true climbing. There are a few aspects of climbing that aren't replicated indoor such as rope skills and exposure.

but if you go outdoor please make sure you know what you is doing or are with someone who does.

 

[ForkinGreat]

For anyone thinking of getting into or back into climbing
Every state generally has a climbing club or association that runs learn to lead courses and climbing trips to crags near and far. good source of climbing buddies and knowledge.

 

[steve jobs' pancreas]

I loved climbing outside.

To me, when climbing, fear is a tangible thing, I can pick it up, it's malleable, I can deal with it.

Well, I could....

 

[ajay]

I loved climbing outside.

To me, when climbing, fear is a tangible thing, I can pick it up, it's malleable, I can deal with it.

Well, I could....

Haha yeah, I found that despite the fear being sometimes overwhelming, often the technicalities of the route were enough to get my mind off it, until I remembered I'm a couple of meters above a questionably placed cam...

 

[latheboy]

5 10's don't fit my feet, LA SPORTIVA was a great fit though.
Get them small and put a shopping bag on your foot before putting the shoe on
I'm a 9.5 normally and would get 7's for bouldering... PAIN was your friend.

I haven't climbed in years and I even have a boulder wall at home sitting unloved. It's a bit steep for me at the moment at 45° haha...

Get shoes you can wear for hours at a time for route climbing and tight shoes for bouldering.

Be careful going outdoors with someone the first time and don't go straight into a 4 pitch route.
Do some top roping first and make sure you are happy with the safety side of things.

You need to know they know what they are doing.

All the gear no idea comes to mind.

Do a lead course at a gym to get the basics.

Go to The Lactic Factory cause I built it

 

[ajay]

5 10's don't fit my feet, LA SPORTIVA was a great fit though.
Get them small and put a shopping bag on your foot before putting the shoe on
I'm a 9.5 normally and would get 7's for bouldering... PAIN was your friend.

I haven't climbed in years and I even have a boulder wall at home sitting unloved. It's a bit steep for me at the moment at 45° haha...

Get shoes you can wear for hours at a time for route climbing and tight shoes for bouldering.

Be careful going outdoors with someone the first time and don't go straight into a 4 pitch route.
Do some top roping first and make sure you are happy with the safety side of things.

You need to know they know what they are doing.

All the gear no idea comes to mind.

Do a lead course at a gym to get the basics.

Go to The Lactic Factory cause I built it

Do you still frequent lactic? It's really changed in the last year, still as finger breakingly awesome as ever

 

[thecat]

I haven't climbed seriously since the kids came along but I was self taught outdoors. Started with top roping built up the kit and skills and began leading routes I was super comfortable on before venturing to harder stuff. Learnt ropes and stuff on line. So it can be done but I wouldn't recommend it.

When we were into it Me my little bro and my girly would hits local crags, dam cliff, cosmic, tardis, taranar, a few time a week.

When I started climbing with other more experienced climbers I quickly learnt how many bad habits and techniques we'd picked up and once those are ingrained it hard to get out of them. I don't think we were doing any thing dangerous but it Really put a plateau on our ability for a while.

Getting the right info from more experience people from the start is far and away better. Not sure what the scene is like now but back in the dark ages it was very much like mtb. Lots of people willing to help out and let you tag along.

It's a great activity, a lot like mountain biking sometimes every thing clicks and flies and it you and the rock and the rest of the world fades into the background