Recommendation - time and effort to service my own shock and forks?

Binaural

Binaural

Eats Squid
I have a Strive that is getting on for 2 years old and that I have never serviced. Now that I am planning a big trip to Derby and Maydena for the end of the year, I want everything to be in tip top shape for max reliability. I'm planning to bleed the brakes myself, but I am of two minds about servicing the RS Monarch Plus rear shock and the Pike RC fork. Is it worthwhile for a home mechanic to buy the necessary spares kits and do a basic service themselves, or am I better off just sending these off for service?

Would also appreciate it if anyone had a recommendation for a decent mechanic around the inner west of Sydney so I can just drop this off to be sorted out if time runs low.

Background information: I am reasonably handy with my tools and normally service my bikes once a year, but have been lazy with this bike.
 
Oddjob

Oddjob

Merry fucking Xmas to you assholes
Mtb Suspension Centre in Stanmore will take your bike and service the forks and shock and even fix problems with linkages and headsets if they come across them.

Vanilla cycles in Marickville for more general spannering.

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S

SummitFever

Eats Squid
Binaural said:
...Is it worthwhile for a home mechanic to buy the necessary spares kits and do a basic service themselves...
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Absolutely. The basic service on a set of forks and the air can on a rear shock can be done in less time than it takes to package them up and send them off. If I'm in a real hurry, a fork service will take about less than 15 mins. Most of that is spent meticulously cleaning the outside of the fork.

You don't even need to buy any spares. Unless a fork or shock is leaking, don't bother replacing any of the seals. A regular "disassemble, clean, regrease, add splash lube and re-assemble" maintenance cycle will keep your average fork and shock going on the original seals for years. I ride every day and do that basic maintenance routine on the fork about every 3 months (or as soon as its not feeling as plush at it normally does) and the shock about every 6 months.

Go to the SRAM website, download the relevant service manuals and have at it.
 
G

goobags

Likes Dirt
Get the gear to service it yourself. Since it’s 2 years old I would get some fork seals but other than that, just the required oils.

As mentioned above, I spend more time cleaning and realigning brakes than actually servicing.

You will end up servicing more often as a litre of fork oil goes a long way. I bought a litre of fork oil 3 years ago and it has seen me through 4 bikes, a few mates bikes and there is still plenty left.


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Jim Junkie

Jim Junkie

Used to sell drugs, now he just takes them
I’ve just started doing it myself and have been pleasantly surprised. It took close to the same price to get all the seals, oils and tools I needed for the first time around, but I also bought 1L of lubes, seal drivers, clamp blocks and tools to match the array of suspension at home.

The servicing is straight forward with all the videos and manuals available, and doesn’t take as long as I thought it would. Add to that the satisfaction of doing it yourself and the money savings (second time around), and you’re laughing.

Then again, I haven’t tried touching the dampers at all yet, that seems like a more challenging proposition.
 
Mr Crudley

Mr Crudley

Glock in your sock
It is a good skill to have in your home mechanics box. Being methodical and noting the order it came out so it goes back the same way helps.

A basic oil change and seal replacement is easy enough. I would draw the line at sealed cartridges. Fortunately open oil baths aren't too difficult and remove much of the magic needed to crack open a cartridge.

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born-again-biker

born-again-biker

Is looking for a 16" bar
As above, lower fork and air can shock services are a piece of piss. And the seals and o-rings are not expensive really.
I haven't done nitrogen damper stuff yet... but it's only a matter of time.

Hack tip:
Take a piece of wood about 75mm x 25mm (thereabouts) and drill a big hole through it towards one end. Use a hole saw that is slightly bigger than the dia. of the top of your fork steerer.
Then clamp the wood upright to your bench (or in your vice) with the hole at the top & put your fork steerer thru the hole.
If you did it right you should get a fork holder /work stand at a good angle for draining and removing the lowers.

Buy a set of soft Jaws for your vice for holding the shock... or use two bits of soft wood and 2 rubber bands.


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Binaural

Binaural

Eats Squid
In the end, I yielded to laziness and have dropped the bike off at the service centre at Stanmore because it's only a few minutes from my place. Only a couple of days turnaround too!
 
Binaural

Binaural

Eats Squid
Update on this. The guys at the Mountain Bike suspension service centre stayed open for 45mins after closing time (already on extended hours) yesterday so I could pick up my bike this week and get out for a ride this weekend. The retuned bike has not been ridden in anger yet, but it's all feeling smoooooth. Thanks guys!
 
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Oddjob

Oddjob

Merry fucking Xmas to you assholes
Binaural said:
Update on this. The guys at the Mountain Bike suspension service centre stayed 45 after closing time (already on extended hours) so I could pick up my bike this week and get out for a ride this weekend. The retuned bike has not been ridden in anger yet, but it's all feeling smoooooth. Thanks guys!
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My wife tells me I spend an unhealthy amount of time and money with Simon and Lauchie.

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H

herbman

Likes Dirt
Haakon said:
Another tip - go to a motorcycle shop to buy the fork oil. Waaaaaaaaaay cheaper when its not for pushbikes!!
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If you are going to do this, I would recommend reading up on CsT values. Oil Wt is not consistent between brands and one brands 5Wt will be another brands 2.5wt. The CsT valve is a better way to compare different brands of oil. Also some oils are designed to work in cartridge dampers and rear shocks and do not work well in open bath system or as oil in the lowers of forks as the become sticky when they come in contact with air. Fox red is an example of this and as a fox green and gold examples of oils that should not go in a cartridge damper.
 
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herbman

Likes Dirt
Binaural said:
I have a Strive that is getting on for 2 years old and that I have never serviced. Now that I am planning a big trip to Derby and Maydena for the end of the year, I want everything to be in tip top shape for max reliability. I'm planning to bleed the brakes myself, but I am of two minds about servicing the RS Monarch Plus rear shock and the Pike RC fork. Is it worthwhile for a home mechanic to buy the necessary spares kits and do a basic service themselves, or am I better off just sending these off for service?

Would also appreciate it if anyone had a recommendation for a decent mechanic around the inner west of Sydney so I can just drop this off to be sorted out if time runs low.

Background information: I am reasonably handy with my tools and normally service my bikes once a year, but have been lazy with this bike.
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With 2 years riding on them, I would say that both need a full rebuild. The charger damper on the pikes are known to suck oil or air in the bladder which makes them feel harsh and inconsistent. And as there proformance would have dropped slowly over time you would not have noticed it.
And if you are sinking $$$ to travel to Derby and Maydena you want your equipment to work well and not blowup and cost you riding time or enjoyment.
Both places are great fun but hard on equipment and I have seen disappointed riders at both places with blown rear shocks.
 
C

ChrisJC

Likes Bikes and Dirt
herbman said:
If you are going to do this, I would recommend reading up on CsT values. Oil Wt is not consistent between brands and one brands 5Wt will be another brands 2.5wt. The CsT valve is a better way to compare different brands of oil. Also some oils are designed to work in cartridge dampers and rear shocks and do not work well in open bath system or as oil in the lowers of forks as the become sticky when they come in contact with air. Fox red is an example of this and as a fox green and gold examples of oils that should not go in a cartridge damper.
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Oils ain't oils Boss! Oils are expensive but for the small amounts used, a one liter bottle will last a long time! If as you say you are willing to check the CsT ratings you can usually find an alternative; however IME the alternatives aren't always easy to get within Oz. Some oils are just ridiculously prices, eg the Maxim 15/50 oil used in RS shocks. You get a few ml with a service kit; however unless you change your seals at every service you're up for $10 or so for 5ml or $60 for a litre. Expensive but a litre is going to last probably 20 years!
 
Haakon

Haakon

has an accommodating arse
Oil weight is something you can play with.

For the damper oil, my RS forks have played well with Motul fork oils. For the lower legs, I use the 5w40 Penrite full synthetic engine oil I also use in the Renault :) It worked well in the air can of old Fox forks too.

No need to get too anal about this. As mentioned, a quick check of the CsT values to make sure you are not completely out of the ball park and you'll be fine.
 
Calvin27

Calvin27

Eats Squid
A bit of bumpage on this thread. Looking at first time servicing my forks. I'm pretty mec minded and basically do everything else albeit ham fisted at times lol.

Anyway rather than start a thread I'm gonna hijack this one lol. Some Qs:

1. Engine oil is good yeah? Generally take the 'cold' weight and use that assuming it's not going to crack the shits due to whatever detergents or additives in the oil?
2. Are there any specialty parts that I need? I'm a little pressed for space and have my bits all over the place in storage (across 3 separate houses - don't ask lol). Ideally I'd have to gather up the bits and do it in one shot but I need to be sure I have everything. Then I made the mistake of jumping on mtbdirect and holy crap there looks like a lot of custom parts for fork servicing there. What do I need lol?

Also are shocks any harder/different to do than forks? I followed the spesh brain thread here and that made my head hurt lol.
 
C

ChrisJC

Likes Bikes and Dirt
Calvin27 said:
A bit of bumpage on this thread. Looking at first time servicing my forks. I'm pretty mec minded and basically do everything else albeit ham fisted at times lol.

Anyway rather than start a thread I'm gonna hijack this one lol. Some Qs:

1. Engine oil is good yeah? Generally take the 'cold' weight and use that assuming it's not going to crack the shits due to whatever detergents or additives in the oil?
2. Are there any specialty parts that I need? I'm a little pressed for space and have my bits all over the place in storage (across 3 separate houses - don't ask lol). Ideally I'd have to gather up the bits and do it in one shot but I need to be sure I have everything. Then I made the mistake of jumping on mtbdirect and holy crap there looks like a lot of custom parts for fork servicing there. What do I need lol?

Also are shocks any harder/different to do than forks? I followed the spesh brain thread here and that made my head hurt lol.
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Basic service, ie dust wipers, lowers oil change etc? Which forks and shock do you have?

The main specialty tools I’d highly recommend you buy are a seal driver and chamfeerless socket to remove the air side top cap and damper if required. If you have the latest Rockshox forks you’ll need a splined socket to remove the top cap.
 
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C

ChrisJC

Likes Bikes and Dirt
Calvin27 said:
2013 reba solo air
2015 rev solo air
2016 pike (cycling deal special lol)

So I am looking at:
- seal driver
- chamfered socket (no idea)
- splined socket

What is this and do I need it haha? I assume a damper service is not really required if it's all working nicely? https://www.mountainbikesdirect.com.au/rockshox-charger-damper-standard-bleed-kit
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Sorry I meant to say chamferless socket. Cyclinic have all the various sizes. The 2016 pike is 24mm on the air side. Unless you haves 2018 or later you won’t need a splined socket.
 
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