Recommend a carbon XC rim

[Cardy George]

My 29" DT Swiss XMC 12OO rims took a hell of a beating at the Odyssey. The front was definitely not straight, and has some nasty wrinkles on the side wall. The rear isn't as bad, but it's there, and being carbon, I don't trust them and I can't afford the $3k to replace like-for-like.

The current generation of my wheel has a 30mm wide rim, I'm currently on 24mm wide, and don't ride a tyre narrower than 2.25, is there much benefit for me to go wider? I have mainly loose over hard trails, with the occasional sandy patch.

Alloy is not out of the question, but I'd prefer carbon, well, because carbon. And that old Unicorn of light weight AND durable. It's not a dedicated race bike, they need to cope with daily use from my fat arse.

 

[Daniel Hale]

what about hunt xc wide race 1520g alloy xc race wide, or the normal xc wide adds 120g , saves $140, hunt xd wide

 

[Oddjob]

Are the XMC 28h? If so I would go a slightly beefier asymmetric rim to make up for the loss in spokes.

I've had good experiences with Nextie and the guys at Premium MTB have lots of real world experience to give you advice.

If you want to go Gucci, We are One.

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[Cardy George]

Are the XMC 28h? If so I would go a slightly beefier asymmetric rim to make up for the loss in spokes.

I've had good experiences with Nextie and the guys at Premium MTB have lots of real world experience to give you advice.

If you want to go Gucci, We are One.

Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk

Yep, 28 hole.

 

[beeb]

+1 for Nextie/PremiumMTB. I've been running their trail and enduro rims however, but no dramas at all (including some occasional very heavy rockstrikes) with those.

If you buy these let me know how you find them: (I'd like to buy a pair for a weight-weenie build in future)

https://www.nextie.com/ultralight-mountain-clincher-32mm-NXT29UL32

 

[silentbutdeadly]

The Spank Oozy Trail 295 rims on Hope hubs I ran at Coomie are tops and well cheaper than carbon. Worked really well with 2.2 width tyres... especially in the corners.

The Twinzer hardtail is running even cheaper tubeless alloy Evo 2.3 rims from Alex Rims that were just as light, just as wide and have proven just as durable...these are on White Industries (R) and Hope (F) hubs.

What I saved on the rims I spent on getting the wheels built properly. Neither set have needed tweaking since...

 

[Kerplunk]

I have 30mm id carbon rims on my xc hardtail, the wider rim/extra volume of the tyre is nice. But for rolling resistance i’m not sure the wider rim on the rear is that great.. When running 2.25 tyres the sidewalls stick out a fair bit and I do get more sidewall cuts.. I have seen manufacturers now going wider on the front and slightly more narrow on the rear. Ie 30mm front 27mm rear..

 

[Kerplunk]

I would add for general trail riding 30mm rims are great, big improvement especially with carbon..

 

[SummitFever]

Even the cheapo Chinese carbon rims are expensive compared to Alu. I've found the Crest MK3 to be the perfect XC style rim. About 360g in 29er and $100 a pop. I use them with 2.25 to 2.4 tyres. Cheap and cheerful. I get about a year of daily offroad riding out of a rear rim before cracks start to appear around the nipple holes. It takes me under an hour to replace the rim while re-using the spokes and nipples.

I couldn't tell the difference between a Conti X-King 2.4 on a 30mm ID rim and the Crest MK3 (25mm ID) rim, however, I'm far from being a "princess and the pea type rider" so take whatever I say with a grain of salt. Indeed, I have feelings of gross inadequacy when I read of others being able to tell a half degree difference in head angle, 5mm lower BB or some other minuscule change to a bike.

 

[Kerplunk]

I couldn't tell the difference between a Conti X-King 2.4 on a 30mm ID rim and the Crest MK3 (25mm ID) rim, however, I'm far from being a "princess and the pea type rider" so take whatever I say with a grain of salt. Indeed, I have feelings of gross inadequacy when I read of others being able to tell a half degree difference in head angle, 5mm lower BB or some other minuscule change to a bike.

With a 22.5 rim and 2.2 Ikon I have heaps of clearance in the rear of my hardtail, on a 30mm rim it gets real tight width wise. The difference is pretty obvious. Granted 22.5 isn’t 25mm..

 

[Oddjob]

Even the cheapo Chinese carbon rims are expensive compared to Alu. I've found the Crest MK3 to be the perfect XC style rim. About 360g in 29er and $100 a pop. I use them with 2.25 to 2.4 tyres. Cheap and cheerful. I get about a year of daily offroad riding out of a rear rim before cracks start to appear around the nipple holes. It takes me under an hour to replace the rim while re-using the spokes and nipples.

Yeahnar. The Flow Ex is the only Stans rim that isn't a complete pile of noodly shit imo. Cracking around eyelets and popping tyres off the rim under cornering are only two of the well known shortcomings of the crest.

If your going to run alloy its DT with nipple shims, Mavic with eyelets or nothing.


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[Cardy George]

Would it be fair to say I'm looking at a more trail oriented rim because of the daily use?

 

[link1896]

What’s the ERD of the current rim?

I’ve owned/own Carbonfan, light bicycle, Nextie and Rovals. All great. Yeah the BigS are silly prices and don’t sell just rims as their head is lodged welL up their ass.

Asymmetrical is great.

28hole blows chunks. 32 is the sweet spot.

Riding on carbon rims is like sex vs masterbating. Once you go carbon, there is no going back. Cocaine off a hookers ass would be cheaper

 

[Flow-Rider]

Yeahnar. The Flow Ex is the only Stans rim that isn't a complete pile of noodly shit imo. Cracking around eyelets and popping tyres off the rim under cornering are only two of the well known shortcomings of the crest.

If your going to run alloy its DT with nipple shims, Mavic with eyelets or nothing.


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Seen a few enduro riders here crack Stans Flows at the eyelets, bike shops would warrant them but not pull the spoke tension as recommended on the warranty wheels and then spokes would unwind loose on them. I'm pretty sure a few blokes on here cracked them at the eyelets too.

 

[SummitFever]

Any alu rim that isn't a boat anchor will eventually crack around the rim. Even eyeletted rims. A rear rim is a consumable item like brake pads.

 

[Flow-Rider]

Any alu rim that isn't a boat anchor will eventually crack around the rim. Even eyeletted rims. A rear rim is a consumable item like brake pads.

Most of them cracked within a few weeks from new, not sure if it's something they've rectified. I've got a set on a Dirtjumper with no issues but it hardly ever gets ridden and never cranked the spoke tension up on them either.

 

[Cardy George]

What’s the ERD of the current rim?

Can only find ERD for the new 30mm, but I'll buy new spokes if I have to.

28hole blows chunks. 32 is the sweet spot.

Currently only own one pair of 28h hubs, so I'll be sticking with that.

Riding on carbon rims is like sex vs masterbating. Once you go carbon, there is no going back. Cocaine off a hookers ass would be cheaper

I have no doubt of that. Looking very likely I'll be using alloy to get back on the trails, then saving my bikkies for 12 months or so for new race wheels

 

[Oddjob]

Seen a few enduro riders here crack Stans Flows at the eyelets, bike shops would warrant them but not pull the spoke tension as recommended on the warranty wheels and then spokes would unwind loose on them. I'm pretty a few blokes on here cracked them at the eyelets too.

I'm not saying Flows haven't had their problems but compared to the issues with grails, crests and arches. The low limit on psi because the sidewalls blowing out is my favourite.

Can only find ERD for the new 30mm, but I'll buy new spokes if I have to.


Currently only own one pair of 28h hubs, so I'll be sticking with that.


I have no doubt of that. Looking very likely I'll be using alloy to get back on the trails, then saving my bikkies for 12 months or so for new race wheels

Why bother with another race set when you already have weightweenie hubs? You would be better off getting a cheap set of alloy wheels to get you back on the road and then investing in some good rims later.


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[Cardy George]

I'm not saying Flows haven't had their problems but compared to the issues with grails, crests and arches. The low limit on psi because the sidewalls blowing out is my favourite.




Why bother with another race set when you already have weightweenie hubs? You would be better off getting a cheap set of alloy wheels to get you back on the road and then investing in some good rims later.


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Suggestions?

I had been considering purchasing some cheapish everyday wheels to put shit tyres on so I'm not chewing up my Vittorias, coz I can't be arsed swapping tyres for a hour and a half race once a month. The front hub is still good, the rear could use some new bearings, so the time is probably right to demote them to second favourites.

I'm looking at DT Swiss XR 391 alloy rims with nipples and washers from r2-bike for about $190

 

[ozzybmx]

Used to have the same dilemma, thought swapping in and out a different wheelset would solve it.

Soon realised that adjusting both brakes due to different disc positions on the hubs and trimming the rear derailleur because of slightly different cassette position each time was as much work or more than swapping 2 tyres.