Reaming & Dropper internal routing plan

yuley95

yuley95

soft-arse Yuley is on the lifts again
phillynight said:
hmm... I'm thinking more 'inside' the tubes of the frame... I have seen a few people do this but just wondering if the radius is too much for the cable (will it cause too much friction) and also I am wondering about the internal bottom bracket spindle plastic cover rubbing on the cable. I can't really find anyone who says much about doing it this way.. maybe it's a bad idea?
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My Transition Sentinel is routed like that and its fine. Was a PITA to run the outer through there the first time but one it was in there the post worked sweet
 
phillynight

phillynight

Likes Dirt
After working on the bike a bunch over the weekend I decided it's not worth it to run through the BB. I am 99% sure I could make it work, but servicing it would be an absolute nightmare and likely a full days worth of cursing and agro if I had to replace the cable. I was working on it with my mate who is a PHD laser physicist and mechanical engineer and he suggested since the Jagwire dropper cable is so flexible was to do one hole in the seat tube, then bend 180 and use one of these https://www.ramcycleparts.com.au/cable-stop-frame-clamp-single-mt213-3-sizes-availa~3270 then it would be bare cable up to the stock front derailleur cable guide then back to normal sheathed cable along the underside of the top tube in the stock cable guides. I dunno, would be kind of clean install and almost factory look, but I am not sure how long the dropper cable can handle that 180 degree 'back on itself' bend. Taking the bike up to Falls Creek next weekend so I think I'll wait till after that to decide lol
 
PJO

PJO

in me vL comy
Not a great place to have an exposed bare cable, right in line with the crap coming off the back wheel...
 
phillynight

phillynight

Likes Dirt
PJO said:
Not a great place to have an exposed bare cable, right in line with the crap coming off the back wheel...
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Yeah true but thats the same place the front derailleur would have been with the same bare cable...

creaky said:
I reckon an external Lev would be a much nicer solution
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haha to each his own but yeah if I would have listened to anyone 6 months ago I would have saved a bunch of money and been riding a generic Trek or something
 
phillynight

phillynight

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PJO said:
You wouldn't have to run it bare if you drill out the cable stop and use it as a guide for the outer.
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That's true... I ordered that cable guide clamp and it get here tomorrow so I'll mock it all up and see how it works. I think if it works I will probably drill out the stops and use full cable like you're saying
 
C

creaky

XMAS Plumper
phillynight said:
haha to each his own but yeah if I would have listened to anyone 6 months ago I would have saved a bunch of money and been riding a generic Trek or something
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Everything you have done so far has been great .... aside from painting over that lovely patina, but that's a personal opinion as it looks fantastic now too !!

Drilling a hole in that lovely frame for a cable run that may not work well though :(

What post are you planning on using?
 
phillynight

phillynight

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Fox Transfer 125mm... I chatted with this guy who had good luck with just running it up the downtube with external stick on cable guides, so this is an easier second option. I'd add a factory grommet in that hole though to protect the paint/from getting abused from the cable tho and keep dirt out of the seat tube
 

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goobags

Likes Dirt
Collar actuated KS is the answer. Route the cable along with the gear and rear brake lines, would look tidy


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PJO

PJO

in me vL comy
phillynight said:
Fox Transfer 125mm... I chatted with this guy who had good luck with just running it up the downtube with external stick on cable guides, so this is an easier second option. I'd add a factory grommet in that hole though to protect the paint/from getting abused from the cable tho and keep dirt out of the seat tube
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Looks much cleaner and avoids sharp bends.
 
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