Project Car / Motorbike thread. Let's see 'em.

Oddjob said:
Your too kind.

Does your R32 have after market brakes or booster per chance?

I fitted a big brake kit and R35 master cylinder to the Stagea and the brakes became too rear dominant. I fitted a brake proportioning valve, had the car re adjusted to an 75:25 split. Now it brakes like a fucking champ, even at Bathurst.

The newer single turbos like the Borg Warner efr leave the old IHI and Garrett's in the HKS kits for dead. Having a big single throttle body and free flowing intake manifold would help as well.

But the single best way to avoid lag is to always be on boost. Having instantaneous gear changes from a stacked gearbox, like a ZF 8HP is the solution there.

For the love of God, don't get an R35 as a daily driver. The ride is terrible, it's annoyingly loud in the car and that only gets worse with an aftermarket exhaust, and the gearbox a pig in traffic. The ride height is barely acceptable, the rear seats are a joke. I could go on...

It's an amazing weekend car and an acceptable track car but there are a bazillion better options for a daily.

Sent from my 24069PC21G using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Yup I have 6 Pot AP's and they're AMAAAAAZINGLY powerful. Reduced my lap times drastically, but the GT-R has always been a hard car to drive on the circuit (for me). Can't stay out for an entire session as the tyres have such a small window and oil temps get high (even with a huge oil cooler). All of my previous track spec cars (MX5, Tommi Mak EVO, EVO 9) were so much easier to drive fast but 100% the GT-R has been the most rewarding, and the only car I've ever owned where I get PB's nearly every time I hit the track.

You're bang on about gearing though and trying to stay on boost. Some corners I feel like I almost need to grab 1st gear lol, thus I try to enter in hot and stay in boost for the corner exit but it's tough work!

Car is currently going through a full restoration and I' putting the interior back in, carpet, air con etc. And it'll just be a street car once done. If I ever do get the track day itch again I'd get another MX5, or BRZ/86.

6_0yyI_123.jpg


5_103r_133.jpg


2_1qrq_1521.jpg


8592384580_8cabe5e855_b.jpg


More pics of my car here: https://www.gtnet.co.jp/event_race/?post_type=event_report&p=13167
 
Last edited:
Justin Fox said:
Yup I have 6 Pot AP's and they're AMAAAAAZINGLY powerful. Reduced my lap times drastically, but the GT-R has always been a hard car to drive on the circuit (for me). Can't stay out for an entire session as the tyres have such a small window and oil temps get high (even with a huge oil cooler). All of my previous track spec cars (MX5, Tommi Mak EVO, EVO 9) were so much easier to drive fast but 100% the GT-R has been the most rewarding, and the only car I've ever owned where I get PB's nearly every time I hit the track.

You're bang on about gearing though and trying to stay on boost. Some corners I feel like I almost need to grab 1st gear lol, thus I try to enter in hot and stay in boost for the corner exit but it's tough work!

Car is currently going through a full restoration and I' putting the interior back in, carpet, air con etc. And it'll just be a street car once done. If I ever do get the track day itch again I'd get another MX5, or BRZ/86.

View attachment 426696

View attachment 426697

View attachment 426698

View attachment 426712

More pics of my car here: https://www.gtnet.co.jp/event_race/?post_type=event_report&p=13167
Click to expand...

If you keep the APs with the restoration, definitely fit a proportioning valve. My Proflow one was $70, fitting and calibrating on the brake test rig was maybe another $200. Well worth it if you think the brakes are too tail happy.

Semi slicks have come a loooong way. The Advan AD09 and Nankang CRS are amazing tyres. Michelin Cup 2R levels of grip but they will last multiple track days. The Nankang AR1 is a slight step down in grip but handles hot days better and is even more durable than the other 2 tyres.

OoOoOoO! I do like Evo 9s.

If you get the track itch again, the i30N is probably the best value off the shelf track car. Pretty much zero mods needed and will do unbelievable times.

I reckon the Ioniq 5N would be another car that would be a good track car and daily driver. A lot more power/weight than the i30N but it's an EV with torque vectoring and lower running costs.

When the fuel apocalypse is over, and the R35 has finished getting it's engine fettled by CRD, and/or I've got the Tomei N1 engine and ZF 8HP in the Stagea you should come out to SMSP with me.

Sent from my 24069PC21G using Tapatalk
 
Oddjob said:
If you get the track itch again, the i30N is probably the best value off the shelf track car. Pretty much zero mods needed and will do unbelievable times.

When the fuel apocalypse is over, and the R35 has finished getting it's engine fettled by CRD, and/or I've got the Tomei N1 engine and ZF 8HP in the Stagea you should come out to SMSP with me.
Click to expand...

But then I'd be another one of those annoying Hyundai drivers who tailgate everyone and have loud exhausts! 😅 Seriously though, how many of these guys are on our roads hey?!

It's funny, as the best way to get over discrimination is acceptance and this year we're sponsoring 2 Hyundai's for WTAC. We sponsored the winning car last year, we're not at all expecting Andrew, or his girlfriend Eleanor to win, but we love an underdog story!

And 100%, would love to get out to SMSP again one day. Just hope the track bug doesn't bite again lol.

749096403_18604855954026476_7262928384560590669_n.jpg

Andrew.

654215686_10232490984323491_6088299698124945996_n.jpg

Eleanor.

768408600_1556100009341962_6996775445041820222_n.jpg
And the Tanuki car we won in last year.
 
Justin Fox said:
View attachment 426838

I did the logo design for O'Spire Cycling, a new bike shop in North Sydney, and the owner is a big car guy who's entering his Supra in World Time Attack next month! Pretty stoked with seeing my logo on his shop and now his car too!
Click to expand...
What's the process for getting clearance from Rays to license their logo?

Sent from my 24069PC21G using Tapatalk
 
Justin Fox said:
Yup I have 6 Pot AP's and they're AMAAAAAZINGLY powerful. Reduced my lap times drastically, but the GT-R has always been a hard car to drive on the circuit (for me). Can't stay out for an entire session as the tyres have such a small window and oil temps get high (even with a huge oil cooler). All of my previous track spec cars (MX5, Tommi Mak EVO, EVO 9) were so much easier to drive fast but 100% the GT-R has been the most rewarding, and the only car I've ever owned where I get PB's nearly every time I hit the track.

You're bang on about gearing though and trying to stay on boost. Some corners I feel like I almost need to grab 1st gear lol, thus I try to enter in hot and stay in boost for the corner exit but it's tough work!

Car is currently going through a full restoration and I' putting the interior back in, carpet, air con etc. And it'll just be a street car once done. If I ever do get the track day itch again I'd get another MX5, or BRZ/86.

View attachment 426696

View attachment 426697

View attachment 426698

View attachment 426712

More pics of my car here: https://www.gtnet.co.jp/event_race/?post_type=event_report&p=13167
Click to expand...
I'm not sure what sort of oil cooler you are running but that's pretty strange. I have my oil cooler 1/3 blocked to keep the temps up to an acceptable level, it runs a Setrab cooler. It's dry sump now, but was wet sump many moons ago and never had oil temp issues, pressure issues is another story!
In my experience the rear end of R chassis cars and I suppose S chassis since they're the same is difficult to tune so that you don't get snap oversteer or unstable braking. Quite a lot of the issues that people have are due to alignment and damper settings, but if yours car is a street car then it's always a compromise between NVH and performance. We found big traction gains with lower arm mounting point changes to alter the anti squat and significant benefits by making a dive kit for the front castor bars.
Justin Fox said:
View attachment 426838

I did the logo design for O'Spire Cycling, a new bike shop in North Sydney, and the owner is a big car guy who's entering his Supra in World Time Attack next month! Pretty stoked with seeing my logo on his shop and now his car too!
Click to expand...
Looks great.
There will be some quick A90s there this year.
 
had "fun" changing driveshaft slide joint boot today, and not on a hoist.

not my car/photo, but this stoopid bit
1787312924654.png

tiny split in boot, starting to spit grease.. sigh... luckily rear shaft came out without the other 2 shafts and the 2 middle bearing supports needing extraction...
1787313158655.png


feeling older than I should now.. this shit used to be so much easier??
 
Last edited:
Modern cars really don’t like sketchy batteries… The Megane id sold to a bloke a few years ago came back on a tow truck with electrical faults. Apparently it had been needing jump starting and during the night had been flashing the interior and indicator lights and unlocking itself. RACT guy said the battery tested fine which is weird.

I got it and chucked a charger on it, after which the battery lost two volts in 20 minutes. It was an old battery anyway so I just put a new battery in it. And problem solved, that was it. No idea how the old one tested ok!

I guess the failing battery confused the body control ECU and it was wigging out?
 
Haakon said:
Modern cars really don’t like sketchy batteries… The Megane id sold to a bloke a few years ago came back on a tow truck with electrical faults. Apparently it had been needing jump starting and during the night had been flashing the interior and indicator lights and unlocking itself. RACT guy said the battery tested fine which is weird.

I got it and chucked a charger on it, after which the battery lost two volts in 20 minutes. It was an old battery anyway so I just put a new battery in it. And problem solved, that was it. No idea how the old one tested ok!

I guess the failing battery confused the body control ECU and it was wigging out?
Click to expand...
End of May/start of June every year, when it's starts to get proper cold, the Colorado we had would throw fault codes, normally to do with the transfer case. And every second winter it would be the signal to buy a new battery before Mrs George was stranded again.

Also used to drain the work ute battery regularly, to the point of being able to time replacing it to the day. Except one year we took it to Adelaide for Christmas and it failed. I knew it was struggling and I had asked the Toyota dealer to charge Orix for a replacement, but because it had "tested" fine, Orix rejected it. CFO emailed me for a "please explain".
 
Last edited:
Haakon said:
Modern cars really don’t like sketchy batteries… The Megane id sold to a bloke a few years ago came back on a tow truck with electrical faults. Apparently it had been needing jump starting and during the night had been flashing the interior and indicator lights and unlocking itself. RACT guy said the battery tested fine which is weird.

I got it and chucked a charger on it, after which the battery lost two volts in 20 minutes. It was an old battery anyway so I just put a new battery in it. And problem solved, that was it. No idea how the old one tested ok!

I guess the failing battery confused the body control ECU and it was wigging out?
Click to expand...
Had a similar issue with the Atto 3 12v battery. Weirdly, EVs still use SLA batteries for the 12v system.

The Atto was doing weird things and I figured out the 12v Century was on the way out. The replacement was a special order item and thankfully turned up before the 12v battery was kaput.

PSA: keep an eye on the 12v battery in your EVs.

Sent from my 24069PC21G using Tapatalk
 
Oddjob said:
Had a similar issue with the Atto 3 12v battery. Weirdly, EVs still use SLA batteries for the 12v system.

The Atto was doing weird things and I figured out the 12v Century was on the way out. The replacement was a special order item and thankfully turned up before the 12v battery was kaput.

PSA: keep an eye on the 12v battery in your EVs.

Sent from my 24069PC21G using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
have you seen James May attack his Tesla for that reason?
 
slowmick said:
have you seen James May attack his Tesla for that reason?
Click to expand...
Nope, wasn't aware. I think it only affects the older Tesla's, the newer ones are on a 48v lithium system?

Thankfully it wasn't a hard fix, and the replacement battery wasn't some $500 AGM monster like the Disco 4.

Sent from my 24069PC21G using Tapatalk
 
So it came to pass that #1 ran the Michelin 4S's on his i30N some thousands of km after they should have been replaced. Luckily the prophesied explosion occurred while it was stationary on the driveway. For reasons I am letting him run my Conti7s while he decides on 7s or 4S's. I am running 18s and 40 profile against his 19s and 35 profile but close enough.

Just for interest I photographed both tread patterns.




Very interesting... and yes:
That's a nail
The rears aren't too bad...

Anyway swapping to the track wheels and semis I find those are very not much tread left and now 6 years old. So incoming some AD09s...

I was going to go all out as many do in Europe and grab some 18x9.5 or 18x10 rims (some nice Ray's etc available in stock) and put 265 or 275/35s on. Tyres are about $200 each more than I paid for the skinny 235/40s. Ah well I wasn't tyre limited anyway. A lot of talent needed before I got there.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top