With the price of genuine R32 body parts now it's almost cheaper to get carbon and fg parts. My wing had a bit of damage and it was cheaper to get one from Carbonetics then to replace it with a stock one. I'm kind of regretting the bonnet pins in mine, could have sold it for heaps and got a cf vented hektic one. Mine is track only so zero fucks given for purity.
Project Car / Motorbike thread. Let's see 'em.
- Thread starter slip
- Start date
Justin Fox
pedal porn peddler
Let the strip show begin!
Justin Fox
pedal porn peddler
Full body resto. Powdercoat stuff and zinc plate all bolts. Just an engine refresh, keeping the HKS internals and GTSS turbos.
This is where every GTR build starts.
Nekminnit you've just done a few "minor upgrades" and you've got a Western Sydney 1500hp 'street car'.
Not many good ones left so a pretty original example will be sweet. Haltech?
Justin Fox
pedal porn peddler
Ahaha yeah. I've had the car for many many years now, almost 20 years I think. I learned how to drive manual in it, and took it straight to the race track. It's a heavy car on the circuit, and laggy too, so when I first had to rebuild the engine I went for small turbos for max response on corner exits.
I'm putting the interior back in though, aircon too. I definitely won't be taking it out to the track much once it's done, probably just cruises and car shows/meets.
Some order pics of it:
Oddjob
Merry fucking Xmas to you assholes
Very nice mate.
crash3
Likes Dirt
This is fantastic. This was in Autosalon magazine yeah? What was that experience like?
Started de-rusting the seat frames on Sunday. I tried wire wheel, strip-it wheel and rust removal gel.
Rust removal gel did basically nothing. I thought the silver parts were bare metal showing through, but it was just the gel itself. It just looked like someone jizzed on the frame (even when I put it on an area that had been wire wheeled).
The wire wheel knocked mostly dust off and some big bits of scale if I was persistent enough.
The strip-it wheel was the winner, knocking off the most dust and scale the quickest, but it also wore down (and chewed out my battery) the quickest.
I think my plan will be to use a combo of wire wheels and strip it wheels until minimal rust remains, pressure wash any hard to reach places as best I can, hit it with rust-converter paint then send it off to the upholsterer. There's lots of surface rust but everything has plenty of material and feels quite solid.
Rust removal gel:
Wire wheel vs strip-it wheel
Justin Fox
pedal porn peddler
Yup! Was in an AutoSalon magazine feature many many years ago (feels like a lifetime ago!). Was a bit of a nerve wracking experience as the editor got me to write my own feature story (he did edit it well though!), but the photoshoot in a proper photography studio was heaps of fun (and it was great to just have some really clean shots of the car).
Haakon
has an accommodating arse
Make cancer great again.
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Justin Fox
pedal porn peddler
Wiring loom is out. Holy shit lol. There's NO WAY this crap is going to go back in!
slowmick
38-39"
What do you plan replace the loom with @Justin Fox ? Are there after market ones or are you going to build them from scratch?
Justin Fox
pedal porn peddler
Not sure yet... maybe a Haltech to make the job easier? Maybe Di2 or AXS?!
nzhumpy
Googlemeister who likes bikes and scandal
I have a guy in one of my teams who does auto upholstery as a side hustle...(think Street Machine etc spec)
What's your time line? He's off on A/L for a few weeks from tomorrow but I can ask about his workload as he's usually booked out for months.
Don't you love all the Nissan 80s boxes tucked into weird places which do "things".
I recently put a Haltex Nexus R3 on one of my street cars and am very impressed with it. I'm a Motec guy and my R32 has a M150 and the whole Motec catalogue but for a street car I wouldn't think twice about an R3+PDM or R5 if it's got enough outputs on the power management side.
The supplied generic loom from Haltech was pretty decent too, it's not Tefzel but nicely made and all colour coded.
While the new Motec stuff is good and we use it for the torque model and paddle shift there are very few people I'd trust to tune it, I've seen plenty of tunes from well known workshops which showed that they fundamentally didn't understand the product.
Conversely the Haltech ran the car fine after 3 minutes of setup and had great idle and cold start out of the box (DBW though).
silentbutdeadly
has some good things to say
That's what they want you to think...
crash3
Likes Dirt
Hoping to have it done by end of Oct. Where abouts are you/he located?