Project Car / Motorbike thread. Let's see 'em.
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Different class and it was a while ago, did a 27 at Eastern Creek which is fucking hauling ass on semi slicks
Justin Fox
pedal porn peddler
That 944 is in Pro Class (the top dog class) and it didn't enter last year so our car won! Well... not exactly our car, the car we (ZEN) sponsored.
crash3
Likes Dirt
I'm south coast NSW, thanks though mate
This thing came with a bunch of spares too, I think I have everything I need bar the windscreen, which I'm told I can get pretty easily through O'Briens.We need an eggplant emoji reaction for this thing. Hooley dooley. This almost undid my vasectomy.
crash3
Likes Dirt
Tore down what looked to be the better of the two spare seats I have last night, and hooley dooley it isn't great. I planned on just using some gelled rust remover and then rust converter paint but I'll need something a bit more substantial here for rust removal I think.
Also you'll all love this - before I cranked the engine I drained the oil, and dropped the sump to clean it out before refill as suggested by one of the blokes on the historic commercial vehicle forum. Thank jeebus he suggested that.
After cleaning:
Also you'll all love this - before I cranked the engine I drained the oil, and dropped the sump to clean it out before refill as suggested by one of the blokes on the historic commercial vehicle forum. Thank jeebus he suggested that.
After cleaning:
Do you want to keep the original seats? You can get xr6 seats for a reasonable amount with or without airbags. Modern seats way better. Measure up, you might be surprised how easy it is to fit something comfy.
crash3
Likes Dirt
Yeah that's the plan. I'd thought about putting some buckets in but I think I'll keep with the benches.
rextheute
Likes Bikes and Dirt
Feronite Rust Converter is a water-based, tannin-based treatment that chemically converts existing rust (iron oxide) into a stable, inert black layer called iron tannate. It effectively neutralizes corrosion, acts as a metal primer, and is widely available in Australia for between $14.99 and $20 for a 250ml bottle.
I have used this - and yes I own a Valiant .
even on my rusty ol trailer - it converts and seals .
I have used this - and yes I own a Valiant .
even on my rusty ol trailer - it converts and seals .
rextheute
Likes Bikes and Dirt
gosh that's a big pic - apologies
this is also good
this is also good
Haakon
has an accommodating arse
acid dipping might be the way with the bench frame.
For a second I thought you were saying it worked on the valiant. Phew.
crash3
Likes Dirt
That's fantastic, I'll look into that. I got CRC rust removal gel spray and a matte black rust converter paint. But I think this may be a good option.
Would also be good for my rusty ass trailer haha. Patina will never go out of style apparently.
I have been googling this too. I'll give the Feronite a go but I worry this is my only option to get in the tubes and stuff.
There's some great rust removal solutions which can be made cheaply for a large item like that seat frame.
The CRC evaporust product is great but if you spend 10 minutes on you tube there are heaps of recipes for it so you came male a substantial quantity for very little.
The other weird one is molasses, I haven't used it myself but I've seen the results and it's quite remarkable.
For what it's worth I'd get it blasted, it'll save you heaps of time and only cost $200ish
The CRC evaporust product is great but if you spend 10 minutes on you tube there are heaps of recipes for it so you came male a substantial quantity for very little.
The other weird one is molasses, I haven't used it myself but I've seen the results and it's quite remarkable.
For what it's worth I'd get it blasted, it'll save you heaps of time and only cost $200ish
oldcorollas
Levin the moment
I wonder how much laser removal would be?
only works line-of-sight, so may be fiddly for springs (and no internals) but is as amazing as it looks.
(it thermally shocks the oxide etc etc, not good for light colured paint)
only works line-of-sight, so may be fiddly for springs (and no internals) but is as amazing as it looks.
(it thermally shocks the oxide etc etc, not good for light colured paint)
Molasses can do amazing things. Some of the best steaks I have eaten.
Laser is good but you need an industrial machine. I am trying to get some trials going for NDT prep. 40 years of blasting and linishing has removed 5 to 8mm of parent material on some high energy piping. Reluctance from the client because old studies suggest damage to the surface from local high temps... a work in progress.
Laser is good but you need an industrial machine. I am trying to get some trials going for NDT prep. 40 years of blasting and linishing has removed 5 to 8mm of parent material on some high energy piping. Reluctance from the client because old studies suggest damage to the surface from local high temps... a work in progress.
Justin Fox
pedal porn peddler
This is Chris from CGR. He's an ex-BMW paint and panel wizard who's now opening his new shop and the first job in his new shop is my R32 GT-R which has developed some rust in all the usual places, so full restoration and respray on the way!
oldcorollas
Levin the moment
decently industrial, but fair few companies that hire them out/contract services these days.
Have done a range from paint ablation to aluminised coating remelting, all comes down to absorption coefficient, substrate, and the morphonlogy of the corrosion. Scale or minor pitting is good, deep intergranular or complex pitting can make a bit of a mess. (it is suddenly going from solid to gas pretty quick!)
aluminium substrate can have blowouts (localised melted areas blown out), but didn't really find that on steel/nickel base.
generally the metal substrate has such low emissivity/high reflectance, that the absorption is pretty low, but Al thermal mass and low m.p doesn't help so need to go slow
I have done some testing, all steels, macros and replications show no surface degradation. Might need some accelerated creep tests to be sure. I like it. Less mess than blasting. Linishing old chrome steels can cause surface fatigue cracking if the clean up is done too aggressively and of course you lose material.
Oddjob
Merry fucking Xmas to you assholes
Can Chris work with fibreglass and carbon fibre as well? I might know a certain 260RS that needs some love.
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Justin Fox
pedal porn peddler
Not sure, but I used to get all my carbon and fibreglass stuff done by Peter at Bodyform (he's the best!): https://www.instagram.com/peter_bodyform/