Project Car / Motorbike thread. Let's see 'em.

Run some injector cleaner thru the fuel - even some metho ( old skool ) its possible the fuel has condensed - and an injector is jammed - got a code reader ?
look for a p00200 code - > 201 is cyl 1 etc
unplug each injector and see if changes - should be able to hear em ticking away .

Dont beat on it too hard - run a code reader , comp test , have a looky in the hole first , sniff the oil ?
smell oily , or fuelly ?

then beat on it ....... joking
 
rextheute said:
Run some injector cleaner thru the fuel - even some metho ( old skool ) its possible the fuel has condensed - and an injector is jammed - got a code reader ?
look for a p00200 code - > 201 is cyl 1 etc
unplug each injector and see if changes - should be able to hear em ticking away .

Dont beat on it too hard - run a code reader , comp test , have a looky in the hole first , sniff the oil ?
smell oily , or fuelly ?

then beat on it ....... joking
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I swapped injectors around, but it stayed with the same cylinder. I still need to try unplugging that injector to see if it does it running on the other cylinders with fuel excluded for that knocking one.

Wasn't expecting to have another PSA product again, so had sold my diag interface for these things sadly. But should dig out the lappy with the universal software on it and see if it talks to the car...

Oil changed during the recommissioning post layup.
 
Ahem. So it was the accessory belt being 1730mm instead of the 1710mm it was supposed to be - and the noise was the tensioner banging against its limiter. Thats a new one.

It got new pulleys and tensioner, but an ordering oopsie meant Id reused the old belt (which was fine) - previous mechanic put the wrong length (or Gates supplied the wrong one) and I guess the old tensioner had more movement to accomodate the extra length.

I'd thought it was detonating due to pockmarks on the number 1 plug at the pulley end of the engine - but i guess that was a coincidence and was just markings from the Magneti Marelli spark plug factory - rattling around in a bin of parts at some point on their assembly line maybe.

Anyway, 7 euros for a new belt and nice and quiet now.
 
Parking facing downhill - leave it in first or reverse?

Doing a 4WD training course this weekend, and the official guideline is leave it in first if the rear is downhills and reverse if facing downhill - ie make the engine turn backwards if the handbrake lets go (which we know it will on a 70 series…).

I dunno. This feels wrong to me.
 
I guess the idea is if the ignition is on at least the car won't self-start if the handbrake fails...

Personally I used to leave my Sierra resting backed up onto the nearest sturdy looking tree because it had a similarly 'effective' handbrake even when adjusted up... :p
 
Oddjob said:
Ooh la la!


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Car reviews are so useless these days. Tell me less about tartan seats and more about how it works. They’re just advertisements now.

In hub motors…? What sort of suspension and what does that motor do to unsprung weight?
 
Haakon said:
Car reviews are so useless these days. Tell me less about tartan seats and more about how it works. They’re just advertisements now.

In hub motors…? What sort of suspension and what does that motor do to unsprung weight?
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It's a bit hard to review a development mule. Would make more sense to do it with the production car.

Presumably they have a reason for the hub drive as opposed to the inboard setup of Tesla et al. I'm sure Chris Harris and Harry Metcalfe will dive into it.

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wesdadude said:
Isn't the direction of the engine based on firing order rather than any inherent mechanical properties? The only logic I've heard of was based on gearing ratio.
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Timing components dont always respond well to being turned over backwards - risk of a tensioner backing off and a chain or belt jumping a tooth.
 
Sorted out Mums i30 that dad had an altercation with a BMW in a roundabout. Had initially thought it was a bolt on job, but the right rail had moved 8mm over. Sorted that out with a block and tackle on the rail to one tree, and a town strap around the subframe next to the hard chassis mount on the other side and another tree. Worked nicely :)

All the replacement panels lined up nicely and it doesn’t even need a wheel alignment after all that!!

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Sorted out Kirsty’s dad’s Mazda 3 too. Some servicing catch up, cleaned out the feral coolant and some leaks and a expansion bottle, engine oil, dealt with a hesitation with a throttle body clean and MAF clean, new rear shocks and rattling sway bar links, got a punctured tyre fixed, brake hoses replaced and fluid, and etc etc. And changed the totally shagged engine mount which did astounding things for improving how smoothly it drives.


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Oddjob said:
I approve!

What are you doing to the engine? Getting a gearbox upgrade?

Coming to Bathurst next year? We need some more classic JDM love to dilute the stink of Porsche Wankers.

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Engine is actually running fine, so it's just getting a refresh (full HKS internals and smaller HKS turbos as it's built for response out of corners). Have only been to Bathurst once, was a really fun day out!
 
Justin Fox said:
Engine is actually running fine, so it's just getting a refresh (full HKS internals and smaller HKS turbos as it's built for response out of corners). Have only been to Bathurst once, was a really fun day out!
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OoOoOoOoOh! Are you getting the super lightweight Step 0 kit?

I went with the full Tomei treatment from the internals and head.

What turbo kit? I managed to get an old set of the rebadged Garrett HKS GTSS twins. Then sent them off to HyperGear for fettling.

Bathurst is sooooo good.

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Oddjob said:
OoOoOoOoOh! Are you getting the super lightweight Step 0 kit?

I went with the full Tomei treatment from the internals and head.

What turbo kit? I managed to get an old set of the rebadged Garrett HKS GTSS twins. Then sent them off to HyperGear for fettling.

Bathurst is sooooo good.

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Nice work on the Tomei stuff. Always dreamed of ordering a Tomei crate engine! My build is old school; HKS pistons and rods, a pair HKS GT-SS turbos, HKS pump, Nismo FPR and Nismo 555cc injectors, with a jurassic Power FC. I'll at least get rid of the Power FC for something modern, probably Haltech as I have a contact there.
 
Justin Fox said:
Nice work on the Tomei stuff. Always dreamed of ordering a Tomei crate engine! My build is old school; HKS pistons and rods, a pair HKS GT-SS turbos, HKS pump, Nismo FPR and Nismo 555cc injectors, with a jurassic Power FC. I'll at least get rid of the Power FC for something modern, probably Haltech as I have a contact there.
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I looked at a Tomei crate engine but managed to get an original N1 block. The bores were oversized so fitted Darton sleeves. That combination of age and hardness should make the block super durable.

If you do get a Haltech ECU look at upgrading the coils to the R35 ones. https://www.platinumracingproducts....f3xRa9MjK8IkmJgMLGXP26jwMp8_tIeMsOsVEqBDsw_p0. It will give a more reliable spark and make it easier to tune.

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