Project Car / Motorbike thread. Let's see 'em.

Although there seems to be a lot of big wallets and micro penises gravitating to Singer.

May I suggest this as a great reverse Uno.
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Old fuel and knocking.

Here’s a new one. Got the Peugeot going again at last, and it’s been sitting for about two years so fuel is that old. And I’m thinking it’s last owner very likely put 91 in it too…

Got a pretty serious knocking which isn’t super surprising, but it’s the conditions under which it does that’s got me a bit stumped.

Does it start up (hot and cold) and off idle on a moderate throttle. Light throttle off idle and it’s fine and above idle and driving it’s fine. Doesn’t knock loaded at lower revs. Just. A few knocks and then it goes away.

So I’m thinking the ECU is doing a great job at keeping the timing under control while underway, but is reverting to normal at idle - and getting caught out for a second until the knock sensor tells it there is still shitty fuel.

Had me crawling around it for a while fearing the worst for rod bearings, but it passed all the usual rob knock noise tests.
 
Umm maybe get fresh fuel in it first.

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Yeah, obviously. Or more accurately some snake oil booster and some fresh fuel, it’s a half tank in it!

I just want to know the processes going on because it’s interesting.
 
Old fuel and knocking.

Here’s a new one. Got the Peugeot going again at last, and it’s been sitting for about two years so fuel is that old. And I’m thinking it’s last owner very likely put 91 in it too…

Got a pretty serious knocking which isn’t super surprising, but it’s the conditions under which it does that’s got me a bit stumped.

Does it start up (hot and cold) and off idle on a moderate throttle. Light throttle off idle and it’s fine and above idle and driving it’s fine. Doesn’t knock loaded at lower revs. Just. A few knocks and then it goes away.

So I’m thinking the ECU is doing a great job at keeping the timing under control while underway, but is reverting to normal at idle - and getting caught out for a second until the knock sensor tells it there is still shitty fuel.

Had me crawling around it for a while fearing the worst for rod bearings, but it passed all the usual rob knock noise tests.

I bought a VN Commodore like that once; if you parked on a slight incline, it would give a few knocks on startup. It ended up being a worn thrust bearing on the crank. It seemed to get worse and worse by the day until it did it on flat ground. If you really pulled on the harmonic balancer from one extreme to the other with all you might, you could make it clunk.

I think the grub that owned it before put thick oil in it to camouflage the noise, then when I changed the oil, it became more evident.

The rear main leaked, so I re-rung the motor and replaced the bearings at the same time, and the noise went away.
 
I bought a VN Commodore like that once; if you parked on a slight incline, it would give a few knocks on startup. It ended up being a worn thrust bearing on the crank. It seemed to get worse and worse by the day until it did it on flat ground. If you really pulled on the harmonic balancer from one extreme to the other with all you might, you could make it clunk.

I think the grub that owned it before put thick oil in it to camouflage the noise, then when I changed the oil, it became more evident.

The rear main leaked, so I re-rung the motor and replaced the bearings at the same time, and the noise went away.
Mine isn't worn. Only 140K on it, and these particular Pug motors are pretty durable (its the same engine as the 206GTi - good units). And it ran fine when I got it the best part of a year ago. Just sat under a tree for a while!

Hydraulic lifters sure made a racket on the first start! Took a few starts before their year off quietly leaking down was rectified...

Pretty sure this is some serious detonation from the glorified kerosene that's in tank... Will suck if something coincidently broke on the first start.
 
Ditch the fuel. The volatiles flash off over time and you are left with the shit. Octane booster will help but the fact it is knocking means the ecu (haha being it's french) can't compensate enough. Stop being a tight arse and get fresh fuel. Use the old fuel to fertilise some blackberries.
 
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Ditch the fuel. The volatiles flash off over time and you are left with the shit. Octane booster will help but the fact it is knocking means the ecu (haha being it's french) can't compensate enough. Stop being a tight arse and get fresh fuel. Use the old fuel to fertilise some blackberries.
It got a third of tank, so threw in the same amount of 98. No change.

I have left the battery disconnected, maybe the ECU needs a reset - it was started and driven to the muffler shop with the front muffler missingz Noisy and fun, but the downstream o2 sensor being exposed to the open air would have done silly things.

If that doesn’t work, I’ll throw some injector cleaner and octane booster and take it for a longer faster drive and see if I can blow some cobwebs out.
 
Ditch the fuel. The volatiles flash off over time and you are left with the shit. Octane booster will help but the fact it is knocking means the ecu (haha being it's french) can't compensate enough. Stop being a tight arse and get fresh fuel. Use the old fuel to fertilise some blackberries.
Had no real easy way to drain the fuel… Dilute and burn “should” be fine. I hope…
 
It got a third of tank, so threw in the same amount of 98. No change.

I have left the battery disconnected, maybe the ECU needs a reset - it was started and driven to the muffler shop with the front muffler missingz Noisy and fun, but the downstream o2 sensor being exposed to the open air would have done silly things.

If that doesn’t work, I’ll throw some injector cleaner and octane booster and take it for a longer faster drive and see if I can blow some cobwebs out.
I'm hoping you mean the sensor was on the downstream side of where the muffler used to be, cos there's no way clean air is getting back up the pipes with the engine running
 
Not fuel. Only happening on No 1 cylinder... Its actually now a lot worse after going down to get some fuel :(

Pulled the plugs - pitting on the ground strap of No1 plug. Swapped back in old plugs, no change. Swapped 1 and 4 injectors, no change...

Now I am stumped... Park it up and wait for a cheap borescope to arrive - see if there is a flake of carbon playing a wannabe glow plug.
 
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Not fuel. Only happening on No 1 cylinder... Its actually now a lot worse after going down to get some fuel :(

Pulled the plugs - pitting on the ground strap of No1 plug. Swapped back in old plugs, no change. Swapped 1 and 4 injectors, no change...

Now I am stumped... Park it up and wait for a cheap borescope to arrive - see if there is a flake of carbon playing a wannabe glow plug.
Or you could save yourself some money and burn it.

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Or you could save yourself some money and burn it.

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Well, that would a bit of a waste at this point, literally just spent a grand and bunch of time doing belts and shocks etc etc... If its dead I'm down maybe $1500 which would absolutely suck, but it ran fine when parked! Was just fixing to flip, was just about worth saving and the 307 wagons are reasonably popular just for being a small wagon.

So hopefully a winter under a tree has caused a chunk of carbon to flake off or something in the combustion chamber.
 
Shoved some nulon foam inlet cleaner shit down the injector port and in the spark plug hole, probably didnt let it soak enough. But it did clean up a little bit and stopped it detonating while idling (and made the cat VERY hot). Definitely no detonation apart from that one off idle and starting scenario - so took it for a drive and beat the living snot out of it over an 80km loop.

Spark plug looked lovely and mixture perfect upon return, and no signs of detonation or overheating on it. But its still doing it tipping in off idle and on start up. Sigh. Still weird its the one cylinder...

Ordered a boroscope, so will have a gander in a week or two when that arrives...
 
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Shoved some nulon foam inlet cleaner shit down the injector port and in the spark plug hole, probably didnt let it soak enough. But it did clean up a little bit and stopped it detonating while idling (and made the cat VERY hot). Definitely no detonation apart from that one off idle and starting scenario - so took it for a drive and beat the living snot out of it over an 80km loop.

Spark plug looked lovely and mixture perfect upon return, and no signs of detonation or overheating on it. But its still doing it tipping in off idle and on start up. Sigh. Still weird its the one cylinder...

Ordered a boroscope, so will have a gander in a week or two when that arrives...
Could it be a buggered bearing?

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