Project Car / Motorbike thread. Let's see 'em.

Oddjob

Oddjob

Merry fucking Xmas to you assholes
Stredda said:
Do you have the electrical knowhow (or access to someone who does) to do the Tesla swap? Would be one question and I suppose charging options would be another. How many laps do you get to a charge and can you recharge at the track? All depends on how you want to use it I suppose.
You could always chuck a turbo Busa motor in it!
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Car currently has a turbo Hayabusa but the ECU is a Link Storm ECU which has limited functionality.

To get traction control and ABS the ECU would need to be upgraded probably to a Motech M130 and loom. The chain drive would probably need to be changed to shaft drive or transverse Quaife gearbox. I might be able to get an old ATE M60 abs unit out of a BMW to work, if not the Bosch M5 unit. This will all be very custom and the cost will add up quickly. Long term availability of spares may be patchy as well.

Transplanting a Tesla dual motor will have a big up front cost but all of the parts will be engineered to work together in a much heavier car. The after market T2-C ECU has a traction control module which also modulates regen and will talk to the Tesla abs module via canbus. Not sure on range but would want 120km+ to cover a solid track session. Could possibly engineer some sort of quick swap battery. Would also mean no more engine rebuilds every 40-50 hrs.

I've spoken to a specialist conversion workshop and they are having a ponder. There's also a parts supplier in Newcastle that did a Radical EV project.

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dancaseyimages

dancaseyimages

Mountain bike pornographer
Oddjob said:
Car currently has a turbo Hayabusa but the ECU is a Link Storm ECU which has limited functionality.

To get traction control and ABS the ECU would need to be upgraded probably to a Motech M130 and loom. The chain drive would probably need to be changed to shaft drive or transverse Quaife gearbox. I might be able to get an old ATE M60 abs unit out of a BMW to work, if not the Bosch M5 unit. This will all be very custom and the cost will add up quickly. Long term availability of spares may be patchy as well.

Transplanting a Tesla dual motor will have a big up front cost but all of the parts will be engineered to work together in a much heavier car. The after market T2-C ECU has a traction control module which also modulates regen and will talk to the Tesla abs module via canbus. Not sure on range but would want 120km+ to cover a solid track session. Could possibly engineer some sort of quick swap battery. Would also mean no more engine rebuilds every 40-50 hrs.

I've spoken to a specialist conversion workshop and they are having a ponder. There's also a parts supplier in Newcastle that did a Radical EV project.

Sent from my M2012K11AG using Tapatalk
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Ive had good success with the Haltech guys if that's an option to look into, even though they are a bit more immature when it comes to features of the Motec gear, local coders so you usually get a response within a day and they seem to be happy to go the extra mile / work on things with you if you are happy to have a bit of a tinker.
 
S

SummitFever

Eats Squid
Oddjob said:
Car currently has a turbo Hayabusa but the ECU is a Link Storm ECU which has limited functionality.

To get traction control and ABS the ECU would need to be upgraded probably to a Motech M130 and loom. The chain drive would probably need to be changed to shaft drive or transverse Quaife gearbox. I might be able to get an old ATE M60 abs unit out of a BMW to work, if not the Bosch M5 unit. This will all be very custom and the cost will add up quickly. Long term availability of spares may be patchy as well.

Transplanting a Tesla dual motor will have a big up front cost but all of the parts will be engineered to work together in a much heavier car. The after market T2-C ECU has a traction control module which also modulates regen and will talk to the Tesla abs module via canbus. Not sure on range but would want 120km+ to cover a solid track session. Could possibly engineer some sort of quick swap battery. Would also mean no more engine rebuilds every 40-50 hrs.

I've spoken to a specialist conversion workshop and they are having a ponder. There's also a parts supplier in Newcastle that did a Radical EV project.

Sent from my M2012K11AG using Tapatalk
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Maybe just turn the boost down on the motor and don't bother with traction control. For a track car I think no traction control and ABS would be the most fun.
 
Dales Cannon

Dales Cannon

Too old for this shit
Staff member
Mattyp said:
You have to be able to drive then...
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Should really switch that shit off at the track. It gets bloody dangerous if the ebrain kicks in just as you roll in a handful of opposite lock. Most leave some rudimentary nannies on for when it is obvious that the pear shaped thing is about to hit the effluent fan. Some kill it completely though. Nothing better to show you outbraked yourself than a big cloud of front tyre smoke just prior to you exploring the grassy bit on the side of the track...
 
Oddjob

Oddjob

Merry fucking Xmas to you assholes
dancaseyimages said:
Ive had good success with the Haltech guys if that's an option to look into, even though they are a bit more immature when it comes to features of the Motec gear, local coders so you usually get a response within a day and they seem to be happy to go the extra mile / work on things with you if you are happy to have a bit of a tinker.
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I'm going to get CRD to assess the car. Then make a decision. Motech is defnitely more straightforward. Tesla swap might be the most pain free long term.

Given that the car has almost the exact dimensions of a Lancia Stratos, i.e. very square, and ground effect aero, I'll need the electronic aids to save myself and the car.
 
K

komdotkom

Likes Bikes and Dirt
Oddjob said:
Car currently has a turbo Hayabusa but the ECU is a Link Storm ECU which has limited functionality.

To get traction control and ABS the ECU would need to be upgraded probably to a Motech M130 and loom. The chain drive would probably need to be changed to shaft drive or transverse Quaife gearbox. I might be able to get an old ATE M60 abs unit out of a BMW to work, if not the Bosch M5 unit. This will all be very custom and the cost will add up quickly. Long term availability of spares may be patchy as well.

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Click to expand...
Don't bother with an M130, they just don't have enough pins for a motorsport application even if you've got a dash with an I/O upgrade. If you are going for the Bosch ABS you can save a few pins because all your wheel speed then gets sent over can to the ECU but by the time you add DBW and your gearbox sensors you'll be nearly out of pins. For a small additional investment (in comparison to the total cost) you can get an M150 with twice the number of pins. Don't be tempted by can gateways or something like an E888, plenty of pitfalls there too. For the difference in cost the M150 is hard to beat for value in a motorsport application, for casual drags and street use the Haltech stuff is simpler to use (new software in particular) and a little bit cheaper.
The big drawback with Motec is finding a boffin who can actually do what they claim. Plenty talk the talk, I've paid a few of the big names to tune my cars and have been very unimpressed.
 
Dales Cannon

Dales Cannon

Too old for this shit
Staff member
komdotkom said:
Don't bother with an M130, they just don't have enough pins for a motorsport application even if you've got a dash with an I/O upgrade. If you are going for the Bosch ABS you can save a few pins because all your wheel speed then gets sent over can to the ECU but by the time you add DBW and your gearbox sensors you'll be nearly out of pins. For a small additional investment (in comparison to the total cost) you can get an M150 with twice the number of pins. Don't be tempted by can gateways or something like an E888, plenty of pitfalls there too. For the difference in cost the M150 is hard to beat for value in a motorsport application, for casual drags and street use the Haltech stuff is simpler to use (new software in particular) and a little bit cheaper.
The big drawback with Motec is finding a boffin who can actually do what they claim. Plenty talk the talk, I've paid a few of the big names to tune my cars and have been very unimpressed.
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This
 
binner

binner

Hath shat hymself
after doing some renos around the house the last few months I got back on to the caravan, finished the drivers side wall.... complete and ready for ACP to be glued, the rear wall is done (under that black tarp in pic). The aim is to get the drivers side wall panel (4.8 metre) connected to the rear wall so I have a nice 90 deg fix, brace that then work on the passenger side, I've already got the front part of wall constructed but need to work the entrance door to rear wall...fun times....
 

Attachments

Haakon

Haakon

Keeps on digging
Cleaning up a nick in a crank journal. Advice on methods please :)

It’s very small in real life and is going to require a steady hand either way. Main goal is to remove the high part obviously and avoid opening a path the edge that would shed oil pressure in the space between bearing shell and journal.

I can’t decide if I should try using a sharp point pin punch to knock off the high part, or try a dremel type thing…. Or just give it to the machine shop, but who knows what they’ll do.

IMG_4622.jpeg
 
link1896

link1896

is a man of many talents
Haakon said:
Cleaning up a nick in a crank journal. Advice on methods please :)

It’s very small in real life and is going to require a steady hand either way. Main goal is to remove the high part obviously and avoid opening a path the edge that would shed oil pressure in the space between bearing shell and journal.

I can’t decide if I should try using a sharp point pin punch to knock off the high part, or try a dremel type thing…. Or just give it to the machine shop, but who knows what they’ll do.

View attachment 404551
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For a build you're not trying to get 300kw per.litre out of or 2 million km between rebuilds, bearing blue the area and attack with a super fine ezylap file is what I've done. Getting the file motion right takes practice. Fine a scrap something of similar diameter and practice. High spots matter, an impression doesn't. (Within reason). think of the oiling hole.

Clean the absolute life out of the entire crank after.

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link1896

link1896

is a man of many talents
Oddjob said:
Car currently has a turbo Hayabusa but the ECU is a Link Storm ECU which has limited functionality.

To get traction control and ABS the ECU would need to be upgraded probably to a Motech M130 and loom. The chain drive would probably need to be changed to shaft drive or transverse Quaife gearbox. I might be able to get an old ATE M60 abs unit out of a BMW to work, if not the Bosch M5 unit. This will all be very custom and the cost will add up quickly. Long term availability of spares may be patchy as well.

Transplanting a Tesla dual motor will have a big up front cost but all of the parts will be engineered to work together in a much heavier car. The after market T2-C ECU has a traction control module which also modulates regen and will talk to the Tesla abs module via canbus. Not sure on range but would want 120km+ to cover a solid track session. Could possibly engineer some sort of quick swap battery. Would also mean no more engine rebuilds every 40-50 hrs.

I've spoken to a specialist conversion workshop and they are having a ponder. There's also a parts supplier in Newcastle that did a Radical EV project.

Sent from my M2012K11AG using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Suzuki cappuccino?

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