Project Car / Motorbike thread. Let's see 'em.

Haakon

Call me Ken, whoreken
Got the Reno Scenic all back together and through a roadworthy. Everything working nicely, with the suspect autodox working after I’d done the valve body/new solenoid thing that usually fixes them from going into limp mode.

And on the way back from the roadworthy it started going into limp mode again. Fuck you Murphy…

Guess ignoring the burnt 160,000kms old fluid and the metal bits in the drain pan was a bit optimistic after all!

Sigh. Box is coming out I guess, and I have a spare recently rebuilt one from an earlier model. Can’t put tailgate straight in as it’s a different final drive ratio, so looks like I’m stripping them both and mixing and matching parts. There goes another couple of weekends :(
 

beeb

Dr. Beebenson, PhD HA, ST, Offset (hons)
Got the Reno Scenic all back together and through a roadworthy. Everything working nicely, with the suspect autodox working after I’d done the valve body/new solenoid thing that usually fixes them from going into limp mode.

And on the way back from the roadworthy it started going into limp mode again. Fuck you Murphy…

Guess ignoring the burnt 160,000kms old fluid and the metal bits in the drain pan was a bit optimistic after all!

Sigh. Box is coming out I guess, and I have a spare recently rebuilt one from an earlier model. Can’t put tailgate straight in as it’s a different final drive ratio, so looks like I’m stripping them both and mixing and matching parts. There goes another couple of weekends :(
As I understand it, from here you need to:
  • Carry out a manual transmission conversion.
  • Turbo the engine.
  • Remove the globe/LED from the engine check light.
  • Weld the diff centre.
 

Haakon

Call me Ken, whoreken
What engine is it you have? Google
Image search suggests lots of the older stuff was closed deck. Begging for some woosh woosh
Its the F4R fitted to the RS Meganes. Widely used lump, only 99kw in this NA form.

Cast iron closed deck. They take heaps of boost on the stock bottom ends.

Enough small differences to make it not worth it without a RS Megane donor car. And if you’re there, just go and buy an RS Megane…

But it has been done by a bloke in Sydney years ago in a red Scenic using an RS Megane donor car.
 

Cardy George

Piercing rural members since 1981
Got the Reno Scenic all back together and through a roadworthy. Everything working nicely, with the suspect autodox working after I’d done the valve body/new solenoid thing that usually fixes them from going into limp mode.

And on the way back from the roadworthy it started going into limp mode again. Fuck you Murphy…

Guess ignoring the burnt 160,000kms old fluid and the metal bits in the drain pan was a bit optimistic after all!

Sigh. Box is coming out I guess, and I have a spare recently rebuilt one from an earlier model. Can’t put tailgate straight in as it’s a different final drive ratio, so looks like I’m stripping them both and mixing and matching parts. There goes another couple of weekends :(
All I can say is front wheel drives should die a horrible death, and front wheel drives with automatic transmissions should be resurrected to die a second horrible death.
 

link1896

Is not a gynaecologist but will look at your fork
All I can say is front wheel drives should die a horrible death, and front wheel drives with automatic transmissions should be resurrected to die a second horrible death.
I can do you a deal on a 2013 CX7 Fwd.


Horrible, horrible thing. Only stand out is the engine, small bore, long stroke, effortless torque for a 2.5L. The awd version would likely be a very nice thing
 

Dales Cannon

The Olden Dazed
Staff member
Anyone added a lightbar or spotties to a current canbus backbone with led main lights? Seems option is to use a dedicated module and that adds about $200???
 

Haakon

Call me Ken, whoreken
I can do you a deal on a 2013 CX7 Fwd.


Horrible, horrible thing. Only stand out is the engine, small bore, long stroke, effortless torque for a 2.5L. The awd version would likely be a very nice thing
Just need to get a 6 wagon - same engine, but without the shitty suv dynamics.
 

link1896

Is not a gynaecologist but will look at your fork
The Tribeca started fine today, charging its battery for a solid week at what ended up as 160mA @13.8v improved the acids specific gravity to bring it from “replace” to “fair”. Woohoo


Took 2L of oil to get to the top of the dipstick cue Statler and Waldorf. Booooo hissssss. That was awful. That was terrible. (6.3L sump, not the end of the world)


Didn’t sound like a monkey beating a 44 gal drum. Woohoooo


Drove it backwards and forwards to get it closer to the gutter super quickly in 40c heat with no cooling system attached. Some previous fool in possession of two brain cells had filled the cooling system with water. Car came from country nsw.

Despite being 40c today I crawled under it on top of blacktop. The oil to coolant heat exchanger is a mess. Super wishful thinking has me hoping it’s leaking due to corrosion and the head gaskets are fine.

One of the first surprises to uncover in 2022 will be is it or isn’t it a head gasket failure.
 

Oddjob

Can hench anywhere any time
The Tribeca started fine today, charging its battery for a solid week at what ended up as 160mA @13.8v improved the acids specific gravity to bring it from “replace” to “fair”. Woohoo


Took 2L of oil to get to the top of the dipstick cue Statler and Waldorf. Booooo hissssss. That was awful. That was terrible. (6.3L sump, not the end of the world)


Didn’t sound like a monkey beating a 44 gal drum. Woohoooo


Drove it backwards and forwards to get it closer to the gutter super quickly in 40c heat with no cooling system attached. Some previous fool in possession of two brain cells had filled the cooling system with water. Car came from country nsw.

Despite being 40c today I crawled under it on top of blacktop. The oil to coolant heat exchanger is a mess. Super wishful thinking has me hoping it’s leaking due to corrosion and the head gaskets are fine.

One of the first surprises to uncover in 2022 will be is it or isn’t it a head gasket failure.
Jesus you're as much a masochist as Haakon.

Sent from my M2012K11AG using Tapatalk
 

Haakon

Call me Ken, whoreken
Timing belt change intervals - time based. Start the clock from when the car was built, the belt tensioned and the engine first fired up.

Or for a car that then sat in storage for 18 months and was put into service with 40kms on it?

I vote for from the time the belt was fitted at the factory, but is heat cycles and kms more important? Thoughts.
 

beeb

Dr. Beebenson, PhD HA, ST, Offset (hons)
Timing belt change intervals - time based. Start the clock from when the car was built, the belt tensioned and the engine first fired up.

Or for a car that then sat in storage for 18 months and was put into service with 40kms on it?

I vote for from the time the belt was fitted at the factory, but is heat cycles and kms more important? Thoughts.
Belts don't like sitting static/"dry" IMO. Belt in use likely stays more pliable, but then wear becomes a factor. Intervals are relevent for time, kms/hours.
 

Dales Cannon

The Olden Dazed
Staff member
Wot ^ the good docter sayeth. When I looked at the RS200 it hadn't had a timing belt in 20 years and looked 100 years older than that. The owner was going to fire it up and give it some revs, no it is ok...
 

Haakon

Call me Ken, whoreken
Cool. Shall start the clock at the build date. Need a couple of small parts so was going to get the timing kit for the alfa while combining shipping and this means they'll only be on the shelf for a year and not two :)
 

link1896

Is not a gynaecologist but will look at your fork
Don’t ignore the other wear components in the timing system. Those ntn 6006-RS bearings in the idlers/tensioners (or whatever size is in Alfa) are a garden variety deep grove bearing with rubbish grease in them. I’ll never forget an old timer at FCR motion years ago telling me to consider all ntn/fag/NSK/timken bearing’s grease as the anti corrosion measure whist the bearing was transported to the end user. Anything I’ve ever cared about, I always popped seals, washed out the junk, reloaded with quality moly/lithium grease and run in a drill/drill press/mill to evenly distribute the grease and check loading and balls turning and not sliding. Doing so, I had a bunch of 6006rs last 200k km on a Subaru with no signs of failure. (Two timing belt jobs).

All depends how much you like an entire engine rebuild when adjustable valve angles becomes a thing.
 
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