Project Car / Motorbike thread. Let's see 'em.

Haakon

Call me Ken, whoreken
Yes. If they were lots better they would be classified as buckets of shit.

i30 is the correct answer, when the erotic windows stop working buy an eBay kit and spent 32 mins fixing it.
Cool. Just checking myself in case i was not being objective enough :)
 

Dales Cannon

The Olden Dazed
Staff member
Cool. Just checking myself in case i was not being objective enough :)
#1 had a COX (CDX) diesel. It was ok. Front tyres were heavily loaded and nothing lasted and brakes were weak. It blew the turbo hose 4 or 5 times because it was a 'constant tension' clamp that wasn't up to scratch and the dpf was problematic. Couldnt fit a worm drive clamp because the plastic pipes would fail... dealer fitted worm drive clamps and finally got the tension right and the pipe split within a week. Internal rattles and poor fitting plastics. The diesels were the good ones. VM Motori diesel same as all the GM 4 pots. The two petrol engines had their own issues. A mate bought an SRI/V (?) for his daughter and had no issues. Others I knew about from work colleagues and the service mgr at the dealership were woeful.

#1's lasted 50,000km ish and then wouldn't run. Wouldn't start. Couldn't track straight, wouldn't roll. But then it did have an interaction with a truck. Safety cell and secondary safety systems (airbags etc) were brilliant I will give it that. Unscathed from an accident that killed the car, you could do a clutch from the passenger seat after the accident.

But yeah, the i30 is a bloody good thing. I have seen quite a few and done some basic services / maintenance on some. Easy and cheap. New ones betterer still. Unlike VWs.
 

Haakon

Call me Ken, whoreken
#1 had a COX (CDX) diesel. It was ok. Front tyres were heavily loaded and nothing lasted and brakes were weak. It blew the turbo hose 4 or 5 times because it was a 'constant tension' clamp that wasn't up to scratch and the dpf was problematic. Couldnt fit a worm drive clamp because the plastic pipes would fail... dealer fitted worm drive clamps and finally got the tension right and the pipe split within a week. Internal rattles and poor fitting plastics. The diesels were the good ones. VM Motori diesel same as all the GM 4 pots. The two petrol engines had their own issues. A mate bought an SRI/V (?) for his daughter and had no issues. Others I knew about from work colleagues and the service mgr at the dealership were woeful.

#1's lasted 50,000km ish and then wouldn't run. Wouldn't start. Couldn't track straight, wouldn't roll. But then it did have an interaction with a truck. Safety cell and secondary safety systems (airbags etc) were brilliant I will give it that. Unscathed from an accident that killed the car, you could do a clutch from the passenger seat after the accident.

But yeah, the i30 is a bloody good thing. I have seen quite a few and done some basic services / maintenance on some. Easy and cheap. New ones betterer still. Unlike VWs.
I bought my Mum an FD series (the early ones) wagon a few years ago and its been brilliant. It lives on rough roads, gets hale bales and firewood loaded in the back and it just keeps on trucking. Only question mark on the series 2 GD wagons is that unlike the Korean built hatches that get a robust 1.8 port injected engine, the Czech built wagons get the 1.6 direct injection lump that do the same gummed up inlet tract thing the VW engines do... But keep the oil clean in them and use the C3 low SAPS oil and I think they're ok.
 

link1896

Is not a gynaecologist but will look at your fork
I bought my Mum an FD series (the early ones) wagon a few years ago and its been brilliant. It lives on rough roads, gets hale bales and firewood loaded in the back and it just keeps on trucking. Only question mark on the series 2 GD wagons is that unlike the Korean built hatches that get a robust 1.8 port injected engine, the Czech built wagons get the 1.6 direct injection lump that do the same gummed up inlet tract thing the VW engines do... But keep the oil clean in them and use the C3 low SAPS oil and I think they're ok.
subaru upper engine cleaner or threebond "petrol engine cleaner" eat carbon for breakfast. AWESOME products.
 

Minlak

Lockdowns have cut into the blowing hobo market
Ok be very specific in your answers please - I have watched heaps of YouTube vids and they all seem to gloss over stuff they think no on needs to know or should already know - Or they are just trying to sell you the specific item they are talking about (wiring harness etc)
So I have 2 lights coming that I am going to mount on a motorcycle - the stock lights are crap and cannot easily be replaced - they went for a funky shape specific to the brand so you can only replace with the brands headlight or change the entire look of the front.

I want these lights to work at night - don't care about daytime running but do not want them to be high beam specific.
1) Wiring -
* Run a power wire from battery with inline fuse to a relay - run power out from relay to the lights ( I assume here I want one wire for each light or will only get half power to light) - run ground to relay and to lights from battery - run switched power to relay
In the above scenario the lights will turn on when the bike is turned on?
2) Optional switch on handle bars
* Run the switched power to the handlebar switch so it comes live when bike is turned on then press switch to turn lights on or off?

3) I also want to put a wireless phone charger holder onto the handlebars through a USB socket that I only want to be live when the power is turned on - Could I add that to the relay in the same location as the lights to get power? Or should I be looking for some kind of power distribution block instead?

I have no idea why this does not gel in my head but it just doesn't

Thanks
 

Dales Cannon

The Olden Dazed
Staff member
How you going to space the lights to get them in the right position?

You will need extra lights independently switched too so you can have high beam with and without additional lights. If the existing lights are positive switched your wiring will work, if neg switched, um, no.
 

Dales Cannon

The Olden Dazed
Staff member
You can get a relay with two 87 terminals (not 87 and 87a) or just run two wires to the one terminal. LEDs should draw low enough current to run 4mm wire which you can twist and crimp into a 6mm (yellow) connector.
 

Minlak

Lockdowns have cut into the blowing hobo market
You can get a relay with two 87 terminals (not 87 and 87a) or just run two wires to the one terminal. LEDs should draw low enough current to run 4mm wire which you can twist and crimp into a 6mm (yellow) connector.
See that's were you need to be specific :) Which two wires to the one terminal? :)
 

Dales Cannon

The Olden Dazed
Staff member
85 is -
86 is + from switched high beam source (if high beam is pos switched)
30 is fused pos constant power or ign on power
87 is to pos wire for new lights
87a is to pos of reversing beeper.
Run other new light and reverse beeper wires to -.
 

Minlak

Lockdowns have cut into the blowing hobo market
Get an extra extra loud reversing beeper.
Of course - If you buy the Denali lights they come with a programable Canbus system that incudes a soundbomb horn - brake lights - indicators and they are all programmable from the canbus to adjust sound brightness flashing pulsating auto cancellation everything
 

link1896

Is not a gynaecologist but will look at your fork
Bought a Subaru Tribeca at auction, sight unseen from the salvage lot. Listed as hail damaged. No hail damage, and at the very least it’s done a head gasket, but the accessory belt is shredded and wrapped around everything.

I suspect a rod has played peek a boo.


I’m in 3 grand all up so far. Body is in pretty good shape apart from one hit to the back left door. Totally expected fun and games doing this


Suspect I’m going to become familiar with the EZ36 against my will. Will strip her down Friday in the street. This takes the cake for a crammed engine bay. Radiator out to get a socket onto the crank pulley bolt.






 

Haakon

Call me Ken, whoreken
Bought a Subaru Tribeca at auction, sight unseen from the salvage lot. Listed as hail damaged. No hail damage, and at the very least it’s done a head gasket, but the accessory belt is shredded and wrapped around everything.

I suspect a rod has played peek a boo.


I’m in 3 grand all up so far. Body is in pretty good shape apart from one hit to the back left door. Totally expected fun and games doing this


Suspect I’m going to become familiar with the EZ36 against my will. Will strip her down Friday in the street. This takes the cake for a crammed engine bay. Radiator out to get a socket onto the crank pulley bolt.






I thought they were only good as an engine donor for Libertys…?
 
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