Project Car / Motorbike thread. Let's see 'em.

MasterOfReality

After forever
I bought this in 93 and still have it to this day, people thought I was mad paying 7.5k for it then, it's worth in the 100000's now. It was actually hard buying cars like this back then, banks were hesitant to loan money on a car that was older than 10 years, cars like VK group A Brocks were going for 13k at the time. Even in 93 I got multiple offers just driving it around on the streets without it being for sale.
That'll top up your retirement fund quite nicely!

Back in the mid 90's a mate of mine was given an XU1 by his old man to restore. Yeah they were pretty cheap back then, have lost touch with him, often wonder if he still has it.
 

Ultra Lord

Hurts. Requires Money. And is nerdy.
Changing the front tyre on my husky, which had a mousse tube.
4 tyre levers in, mousse grease everywhere, all the swearing. Think I’ve got it sorted, hand holding 3 levers in slips and one drops pointy down onto my big toe right behind the nail.
Fml, changing tyres sucks. Should’ve put shoes on.
Mousse’s can eat a bagful too.
 

Asininedrivel

caviar connoisseur
Yeah MG is Chinese slag value these days, but any connection a small photocopied SUV has to Morris Garages heyday is tenuous to say the least.

And yet they're selling quite well here. But then you remember The Big Bang Theory rated highly here too and it checks out.
 

Haakon

has an accommodating arse
Ok brains trust, this one has me stumped. I've looked at everything and this thing still idles like this. Throttle body calibrated, no vacuum leaks (in fact its wandering around 200-350 KPa, should sit around 400 so not a leak), o2 readings look ok.

The engine did come from an automatic car and is now in a manual - could it have different inlet cam timing that the manual ECU is not dealing with causing more vacuum...?


 

Cardy George

Piercing rural members since 1981
Ok brains trust, this one has me stumped. I've looked at everything and this thing still idles like this. Throttle body calibrated, no vacuum leaks (in fact its wandering around 200-350 KPa, should sit around 400 so not a leak), o2 readings look ok.

The engine did come from an automatic car and is now in a manual - could it have different inlet cam timing that the manual ECU is not dealing with causing more vacuum...?


It may be something mechanical rather than air. Sticky valves, rockers, build up on the valve seat? The Kingswood has a 43 year old camshaft and wildly recessed valve seats. The vacuum gauge never sits still at idle.

Quick Google brought up this site

"Mastering the Basics--Reading A Vacuum Gauge | MOTOR"

 

Haakon

has an accommodating arse
This engine ran perfectly in the automatic - it was pulled out of the auto car complete and dropped into a different transmission and ecu in the manual body. There is nothing mechanically wrong with it, just might be a different cam spec. Still looking for those...

The engines are identical otherwise apart from series code - F4R 770 for the auto, F4R 771 in the manaul...
 

Dales Cannon

lightbrain about 4pm
Staff member
If the inlet cam is different it will be milder and the ecu will learn anyway. Disconnect the battery for 30 mins and try again and see if it smooths out. I don't want to say this but I think you have hooked up something incorrectly. Maf or map? Egr? Etc... all from the donor or are you using a mix of bits?
 

Cardy George

Piercing rural members since 1981
This engine ran perfectly in the automatic - it was pulled out of the auto car complete and dropped into a different transmission and ecu in the manual body. There is nothing mechanically wrong with it, just might be a different cam spec. Still looking for those...

The engines are identical otherwise apart from series code - F4R 770 for the auto, F4R 771 in the manaul...
Beaten by Dale's. I'm leaning to something not connected. Maybe there's another load sensor related to the auto box.

Fuel pressure? Starving/over compensating loop? You have disconnected and reconnected everything after all. I've rebuilt a fuel pump, then realised the tank was actually empty before......

And it sounds fucking horrible. Is it supposed to be that rattly?
 

Haakon

has an accommodating arse
No, parts book has same part number for idle cam for auto and manuals.. Damn. Time to check cam timing, but dont see how a pulley slipped while the engine was on the shed floor.
 

Haakon

has an accommodating arse
If the inlet cam is different it will be milder and the ecu will learn anyway. Disconnect the battery for 30 mins and try again and see if it smooths out. I don't want to say this but I think you have hooked up something incorrectly. Maf or map? Egr? Etc... all from the donor or are you using a mix of bits?
Just been out on a permit trying to make it learn. Flywheel target programming set ok. It jerks from low revs when accelerating in third...

MAP. New sensor. Pump replaced, but again it was running fine before the swap. No EGR.
 

Haakon

has an accommodating arse
Beaten by Dale's. I'm leaning to something not connected. Maybe there's another load sensor related to the auto box.

Fuel pressure? Starving/over compensating loop? You have disconnected and reconnected everything after all. I've rebuilt a fuel pump, then realised the tank was actually empty before......

And it sounds fucking horrible. Is it supposed to be that rattly?
No missing sensors, its running the manual loom and ecu -

It sounds fine, theyre not the silkiest of engines ;) It does rattle a bit when i drops to 400 rpm and stumbles but that you'd expect..
 

Haakon

has an accommodating arse
Ran the throttle body stop learning procedure too, although that should learn on its own anyway.
 
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Dales Cannon

lightbrain about 4pm
Staff member
Just been out on a permit trying to make it learn. Flywheel target programming set ok. It jerks from low revs when accelerating in third...

MAP. New sensor. Pump replaced, but again it was running fine before the swap. No EGR.
Sounds like you have part numbers, check all the bits... still looks like a hose or something not in the right place. Map won't do this.
 

Haakon

has an accommodating arse
Do you have fuel pressure readings at the rail? A new pump won't help if a line is blocked or pinched
No i dont, but lines are good i think - the front section came over from the old car as well. It has good power out on the road, so dont think fuel delivery is a problem.
 
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