Was still in a sealed candle shop bag and the 3 chains I did yesterday seem to have worked well.I'd not search too hard inside the contents of your "wax"...
At least you'll be able to assist with police inquiries when a batch of waxy gear lands on the streetsWas still in a sealed candle shop bag and the 3 chains I did yesterday seem to have worked well.
Might get a light behind the slab and look for inconsistencies just in case
I'm not even going to bother adding the PTFE when it arrives.At least you'll be able to assist with police inquiries when a batch of waxy gear lands on the streets
Interesting that the teflon doesn't seem to mix properly with the wax. I've read a bit more on PTFE/Teflon, and it seems like a really shit idea to use it as it ends up in the waterways, and don't FFS breathe the fumes in etc, so I'm going to try something different.Start with new chains!
You've read the thread so I won't bore you with details. Slosh around in Mineral Turps a few times, Turps soak overnight. Then rinse with Methylated Spirits a few times. In the wax until the chain is the same temp as the wax.
@fjohn860 I bought that last time but I find the PTFE doesn't penetrative the chain, it just settles on top. It's still in the pot because it's still cleanish. I'm not saying it doesn't have an effect, just reporting my experience.
My current bag came from Spotlight, but I don't remember it costing 30 clams.
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I'm getting 200km in our fine dust before the chain starts sounding dry and has those tell tale little squeaks. Luckily thats exactly a week of commuting. Some days, particularly later in the week, when I roll off the dirt the chain sounds fucking horrible but by the time I'm home it's shed the dirt and sounds reasonable again. That's the best bit, there's no wet stuff for the dirt to stick to. Which means a clean chain when it goes in Mrs George's car and the shopping and school bags bounce off it.
Its nearly the opposite here, the measurements were better before the waxing, now its been cleaned, waxed and 2 rides in, its on 0.75mm and as of 15 mins ago, in my scrap chain box.Yep, I find that the molten wax gets inbetween the rollers and fills in the gaps thereby reducing the stretch measured on the chain.
Think about how much gets stuck on the outside then imagine what works its way in.Its nearly the opposite here, the measurements were better before the waxing, now its been cleaned, waxed and 2 rides in, its on 0.75mm and as of 15 mins ago, in my scrap chain box.
Dunno why I keep them but there must be 50 in there, might make a chain sculpture some day.
Ahh sorry, I originally read that as the stretch had improved.Its nearly the opposite here, the measurements were better before the waxing, now its been cleaned, waxed and 2 rides in, its on 0.75mm and as of 15 mins ago, in my scrap chain box.
Dunno why I keep them but there must be 50 in there, might make a chain sculpture some day.
You should see Adam's Facebook posts!Holy shit, theres a bit more to this waxing than a quick dip.
Just on my last of five 14hr nightshifts and been watching a bit of stuff from a local chain guru at Zero friction.
I have actually watched several hours of his now and while its slow going, there's a load of great information in his videos.
Very surprised how much cleaning is involved to get a chain cleaned for maximum wax adhesion.
If you have some time to kill, this guy goes into every aspect of chains, lubes, measurement and really analyses results. Best chains, fastest, wear speed... a lot of info.
I also got some reassurance back from Apex Imports here in Australia that their YBN chains are sourced from the manufacturer in Taiwan, he also asked me to call him for additional verification proof.
Ordered 2 x YBN SLA1210 Ti G 12spd chains tonight. Apparently up to 8000km per chain with submersion waxing, so that will be interesting. The Shimano chain on my Spur that was just replaced a few days ago, did 1520km before it reached 0.75mm and scrapped. These 2 chains will be rotated on my Spur, will also run a rotating set of XT M8100's on my Deviate.
Also very interesting that Zero Friction work with most chains apart from KMC as the wear rate on KMC chains is so fast, they don't bother testing or immersion waxing KMC chains.
He's a passionate bloke, I've spoke to him in passing a few times at races.You should see Adam's Facebook posts!
Preparation is the biggest time consuming part of it all. Last night applied some squirt lube to my original chain, I can already hear it grinding away. Hopefully that won't bite me in the arse when I come to clean it next weekend.
We'll see soon, I've got all the gear so no excuses. Going to grab some more YBN SLA chains in 11spd and do the same on my IndyFab after I see what they look like.You've gone full deep end Bill....
Adam is passionate and waxed chains have their place but his testing methodologies are based on flawed science
I try a point out whenever I'm asked that I'm not chasing watts, I'm after cleanliness and longevity.You've gone full deep end Bill....
Adam is passionate and waxed chains have their place but his testing methodologies are based on flawed science.
I'm not saying wax doesn't do a fantastic job but the numbers quoted aren't scientifically accurate.
If you look at industries that massively rely on lubrication efficiency (think very large industrial processes/F1 motors and the like) they have strict testing regimes
Theory is dirt doesnt stick to wax, and if it's not sticking then it's not being ground into your chain and sprockets.I haven’t read back through the thread but out of curiosity does this end up with an obviously smoother running drivetrain or is it more about chain longevity?
But what about the sinter as the bushings break down? If that sticks around you essentially have the same problem. If the contaminated lubricant around the bushings doesn't get flushed out somehow then you're no better off.I try a point out whenever I'm asked that I'm not chasing watts, I'm after cleanliness and longevity.
Theory is dirt doesnt stick to wax, and if it's not sticking then it's not being ground into your chain and sprockets.
Smoothness? I don't reckon there's much difference.
All new to me and I have no proof, results or experience of any of this.But what about the sinter as the bushings break down? If that sticks around you essentially have the same problem. If the contaminated lubricant around the bushings doesn't get flushed out somehow then you're no better off.