My New Commuter...

FatMuz

Likes Dirt
Made some changes to the BMC over the last couple of days. Pro Big Flare bars running 105 Hydro shifters mated to the original SLX derailleur with a Wolftooth TanPan. Feels faster now. Just got to fine tune stem length, angle, height etc... to get the right feel.

370686
 
Time for an update.
11 commutes in / out on the E-Bike.

In: Distance: 38.37 km Climb: 301m. Descend : 413. (Strava corrected)
Average time 1:24:18 (Min: 1:16:19/ Max: 1:23:00), Average HR 139.6 (Min: 132/ Max:147) Average speed 29.1 km/h
Out: Distance: 38.53 km Climb: 413m. Descend : 301m. (Strava corrected)
Average time 1:24:18 (Min 1:23:25/ Max 1:24:26), Average HR:136.5 (Min 128 / max 152) Average speed: 27.4 km/h
Points to note on the data:
  • While they all seem to be time trials I’ve had a few instances that affect the inbound data:
  • 2 wet rides. I do intentionally slow a little in some areas. Makes a few min difference overall.
  • 2nd ride in I thought I’d broken a spoke as the rear went all wobbly. Took it easy the last 10km. found out all the non drive side spokes had loosened significantly (had by pure chance packed a multi tool with spoke wrench that morning).
  • Bumped into and old colleague and talked to him at a slower pace for about 5km
  • One outbound ride I had an average HR of 152 where all the rest were 140 or below and it was not my quickest time (although fastest to slowest is separated by only 121 seconds) I think I pushed past the e assist more than usual for what appears to be no time saving.
Still haven’t done it again on the road bike for comparison, but will at some point.
Overall inbound I let it help in a few areas, but I reckon takes less than 10% effort out of the ride, though that 10% would be the high HR peaks. HR trace is pretty flat except the dips for downhills.
Outbound probably something like 20-30%. I do push in hard knowing home I can take it easy. Same as inbound, HR traces pretty flat, but as the bike is doing more out than in, I get a lower HR overall. I tend to not override the bike when there is a hill coming up and have quickly learned to modulate my effort to keep the bike on its max speed / assist point
Battery / charging:
Worst battery usage was 4/5 bars in 2 rides, so I don’t think I’d risk 3 as the biggest hills are at the home end of the ride and it’s a heavy f@#$%ker turned off. (Also battery is still “New” and will take a while to settle its capacity (Lithium batteries quickly lose a portion of their charge from new and then lose capacity much more slowly for the remainder of their life.))
I have monitored the charging with a power meter to see how much is used. Averages 260Wh to recharge per ride and at ~ 24.42 c/kWh ~ 6 cents.
2 rides per charge and supposedly a 500Wh battery I have recorded 578 Wh to charge from 4/5 bars. The power meter shows 0.6W with the battery is fully charged when I come back ~ 24 hours later, so ~ 10 of those Wh would be charger standby (if you guess at an 8 hour charge time. It’s probably less though.) the rest I’d put down to charging inefficiency (charger and battery.)
Note on E-bike commuting in general
You don’t get out of the saddle, so you need a good seat (and bike fit). Instead of out of saddle bursts for that of small climb, you (I) tend to stay seated. It also doesn’t rock that well if you do get out of the saddle as it’s so heavy.
I use the shared trails that can be quite busy with walkers, riders and those f#$%^g rowing coaches doddering all over the place. I give everyone their space and pass safely. On the E-Bike you blast back up to speed more quickly / easily after waiting for a gap to pass.
At work, locked up well in a “secure” bike cage, I remove the battery (key required) to make it less attractive to steal. It is insured.
While I certainly feel I’ve commuted, it certainly takes the edge off the home trip and I have a reasonable ride.
When passing people on the Yarra Boulevard uphill I do feel I’m cheating. I’ll only ride this for commuting, so it’s the e-bike, car or Public transport, but I’m still cheating in my mind. The other self-justification is I probably have 30 years and 30 kg on most of the quicker ones there.
 

rowdyflat

chez le médecin
Enjoying reading others experiences.
Time for an update.
11 commutes in / out on the E-Bike.

In: Distance: 38.37 km Climb: 301m. Descend : 413. (Strava corrected)
Average time 1:24:18 (Min: 1:16:19/ Max: 1:23:00), Average HR 139.6 (Min: 132/ Max:147) Average speed 29.1 km/h
Out: Distance: 38.53 km Climb: 413m. Descend : 301m. (Strava corrected)
Average time 1:24:18 (Min 1:23:25/ Max 1:24:26), Average HR:136.5 (Min 128 / max 152) Average speed: 27.4 km/h
Points to note on the data:
  • While they all seem to be time trials I’ve had a few instances that affect the inbound data:
  • 2 wet rides. I do intentionally slow a little in some areas. Makes a few min difference overall.
  • 2nd ride in I thought I’d broken a spoke as the rear went all wobbly. Took it easy the last 10km. found out all the non drive side spokes had loosened significantly (had by pure chance packed a multi tool with spoke wrench that morning).
  • Bumped into and old colleague and talked to him at a slower pace for about 5km
  • One outbound ride I had an average HR of 152 where all the rest were 140 or below and it was not my quickest time (although fastest to slowest is separated by only 121 seconds) I think I pushed past the e assist more than usual for what appears to be no time saving.
Still haven’t done it again on the road bike for comparison, but will at some point.
Overall inbound I let it help in a few areas, but I reckon takes less than 10% effort out of the ride, though that 10% would be the high HR peaks. HR trace is pretty flat except the dips for downhills.
Outbound probably something like 20-30%. I do push in hard knowing home I can take it easy. Same as inbound, HR traces pretty flat, but as the bike is doing more out than in, I get a lower HR overall. I tend to not override the bike when there is a hill coming up and have quickly learned to modulate my effort to keep the bike on its max speed / assist point
Battery / charging:
Worst battery usage was 4/5 bars in 2 rides, so I don’t think I’d risk 3 as the biggest hills are at the home end of the ride and it’s a heavy f@#$%ker turned off. (Also battery is still “New” and will take a while to settle its capacity (Lithium batteries quickly lose a portion of their charge from new and then lose capacity much more slowly for the remainder of their life.))
I have monitored the charging with a power meter to see how much is used. Averages 260Wh to recharge per ride and at ~ 24.42 c/kWh ~ 6 cents.
2 rides per charge and supposedly a 500Wh battery I have recorded 578 Wh to charge from 4/5 bars. The power meter shows 0.6W with the battery is fully charged when I come back ~ 24 hours later, so ~ 10 of those Wh would be charger standby (if you guess at an 8 hour charge time. It’s probably less though.) the rest I’d put down to charging inefficiency (charger and battery.)
Note on E-bike commuting in general
You don’t get out of the saddle, so you need a good seat (and bike fit). Instead of out of saddle bursts for that of small climb, you (I) tend to stay seated. It also doesn’t rock that well if you do get out of the saddle as it’s so heavy.
I use the shared trails that can be quite busy with walkers, riders and those f#$%^g rowing coaches doddering all over the place. I give everyone their space and pass safely. On the E-Bike you blast back up to speed more quickly / easily after waiting for a gap to pass.
At work, locked up well in a “secure” bike cage, I remove the battery (key required) to make it less attractive to steal. It is insured.
While I certainly feel I’ve commuted, it certainly takes the edge off the home trip and I have a reasonable ride.
When passing people on the Yarra Boulevard uphill I do feel I’m cheating. I’ll only ride this for commuting, so it’s the e-bike, car or Public transport, but I’m still cheating in my mind. The other self-justification is I probably have 30 years and 30 kg on most of the quicker ones there.
That is a huge commute .
I only do 12 km each way but it is very hilly and half gravel including over 1.8 km driveway at up to 18%.
As the motor cogs sometimes on the steepest stuff , despite me pedalling hard , I bought a lower geared minimotor a Bafang 310 on Aliexpress which is 11 :1 gearing to use for the back wheel.
It is being built up at present so havent tried it.
Rode home at 11 pm last night in moonlight = no cars .
I bought the smallest battery about 350 W hrs, so just to be safe ,charge it after every long ride not always to 100% as I read Lithium prefers 90%.
It would be handy to have a front light that can use the 36v Lith battery.
 

Elbo

pesky scooter kids git off ma lawn
For those whose ebikes may bend the rules, how do you feel riding it on roads and bike paths? I've converted my wifes bike (old Trek MTB with v brakes only) and it seems it may now be capable of 40km/h with minimal pedalling. A little concerned she could come unstuck or if there was a crash, the modification of the bike might come back to bite us.
 

Halo1

Likes Bikes and Dirt
For those whose ebikes may bend the rules, how do you feel riding it on roads and bike paths? I've converted my wifes bike (old Trek MTB with v brakes only) and it seems it may now be capable of 40km/h with minimal pedalling. A little concerned she could come unstuck or if there was a crash, the modification of the bike might come back to bite us.
If I was her Lawyer I would recommend throwing you under the bus in court as you made the mods :p

I would not want to be the test case as the law looks to be playing catch up here.
 

Elbo

pesky scooter kids git off ma lawn
All seems to add up to a bad idea IMHO...
Worse case scenario, it would bite hard. Very hard!
If I was her Lawyer I would recommend throwing you under the bus in court as you made the mods :p
I would not want to be the test case as the law looks to be playing catch up here.
Even though I asked the question I think I already know the answer. I did the conversion when we were in mega-budget mode, now we've had a kid and she wants to ride it, I'm getting more and more uncomfortable with the idea. I think it's time to splurge on a new ebike for her.
 

Minlak

custom titis
Even though I asked the question I think I already know the answer. I did the conversion when we were in mega-budget mode, now we've had a kid and she wants to ride it, I'm getting more and more uncomfortable with the idea. I think it's time to splurge on a new ebike for her.
Any factory E-Bike will be limited to 25km/h out of the factory - Yes you can use several ways of "Adjusting" this. I only mention this as I don't ride my E-Bike on the road as I average better than 25km/h on a ride and you mention above she is currently capable of doing 40km/h
 

Elbo

pesky scooter kids git off ma lawn
They would say that.
Main problem with your wife travelling at 40 km is crashing at a higher speed .
I hope she an experienced bike handler.
She is an experienced rider, but I've decided to swap this kit out for a road legal one, and also fit disc brakes until we can afford a purpose built ebike.
 

rowdyflat

chez le médecin
Is this the one you are selling ?
1000w motor at 48 volts is a lot of power and would go bloody fast on a flat road prolly > 45 km/hr. with sensible tyres.
As above mine is rated at 250 w probably 500 w peak at 36 v and it does about 32 km with no pedalling and about 38 km with.
I am not the slightest worried about legality around Yack. but make an extra effort to concentrate when going fast.
 

Elbo

pesky scooter kids git off ma lawn
Is this the one you are selling ?
1000w motor at 48 volts is a lot of power and would go bloody fast on a flat road prolly > 45 km/hr. with sensible tyres.
As above mine is rated at 250 w probably 500 w peak at 36 v and it does about 32 km with no pedalling and about 38 km with.
I am not the slightest worried about legality around Yack. but make an extra effort to concentrate when going fast.
Sorry, just saw this post you were referring to @rowdyflat. Yes it is, and I can confirm it will do 45km/h with no pedalling and a week's worth of groceries on board.
 

rowdyflat

chez le médecin
Wow that would really focus the mind .45 km/hr is fast for a bike on the flat.
Just quietly I can see why you were concerned .
When and if I build one for my wife who is a good rider I would go for a low powered lightest weight option.
 
Time for another update.
Since Jan been in the office generally 2 days a week.
First ride on the E-Bike since May 2021.
Times have been slowing slightly (~ 2 min over 85 min) slowing a little, as again I optimize the way I ride in assist mode.
I had a couple of outbound rides which were windy and it pushed me back from over 25 km/h to under, so into assist. In fact I had two in a row and ran out of electrons ~ 400m from home, which sucks as it peaks at about 12% grade at 50m from home. At least it has decent gearing.
I’ve had another couple of rides, where distance to empty was showing 1, and 3 km, so pretty close.
Bottom line, riding style / route / battery now marginal for two commutes. If I have a high assist ride on the first commute I’d need to recharge in case I have a headwind the second day.
I’ve now also had the opportunity to ride the roady to work.
As noted earlier, at about 100km on the e-bike, the rear spokes came loose. At 2396km, the rear rim cracked at every second spoke hole. I noticed the rear wheel come out of true slightly and went to re-true and found 14 spoke holes cracked. Warranty claim is with the distributor and waiting on an outcome.
(Large bike + Large rider) x 2396km / 28 spokes may not add up.
So far, 8 roady commute days (31 on the broken e-bike, 10 this year.)
Inbound about 5 min slower (and the first hill 1km (I’m dead cold) in at 10.5% doesn’t help.
Outbound about 10 ~ 15 min slower and of course, more effort overall.
I set the E-bike up with mudguards and now with the wet weather coming, not keen to ride the roady and get filthy and wet from the shared pathes. Waiting on the Cannondale warranty claim (or a timeframe) to either get the e-bike back going again or weatherise another bike.
 

link1896

Mr Greenfield
Time for another update.
Since Jan been in the office generally 2 days a week.
First ride on the E-Bike since May 2021.
Times have been slowing slightly (~ 2 min over 85 min) slowing a little, as again I optimize the way I ride in assist mode.
I had a couple of outbound rides which were windy and it pushed me back from over 25 km/h to under, so into assist. In fact I had two in a row and ran out of electrons ~ 400m from home, which sucks as it peaks at about 12% grade at 50m from home. At least it has decent gearing.
I’ve had another couple of rides, where distance to empty was showing 1, and 3 km, so pretty close.
Bottom line, riding style / route / battery now marginal for two commutes. If I have a high assist ride on the first commute I’d need to recharge in case I have a headwind the second day.
I’ve now also had the opportunity to ride the roady to work.
As noted earlier, at about 100km on the e-bike, the rear spokes came loose. At 2396km, the rear rim cracked at every second spoke hole. I noticed the rear wheel come out of true slightly and went to re-true and found 14 spoke holes cracked. Warranty claim is with the distributor and waiting on an outcome.
(Large bike + Large rider) x 2396km / 28 spokes may not add up.
So far, 8 roady commute days (31 on the broken e-bike, 10 this year.)
Inbound about 5 min slower (and the first hill 1km (I’m dead cold) in at 10.5% doesn’t help.
Outbound about 10 ~ 15 min slower and of course, more effort overall.
I set the E-bike up with mudguards and now with the wet weather coming, not keen to ride the roady and get filthy and wet from the shared pathes. Waiting on the Cannondale warranty claim (or a timeframe) to either get the e-bike back going again or weatherise another bike.
I’d be thinking about a spare wheel regardless. Commuting requires dependability. Nothing fucks your day like a failure half way to work, you know it will be on the day the boss sets a 9am meeting and he’s already pissed.
 
I’d be thinking about a spare wheel regardless. Commuting requires dependability. Nothing fucks your day like a failure half way to work, you know it will be on the day the boss sets a 9am meeting and he’s already pissed.
Yep. Built one. (Note these bikes have an odd wheel offset so nothing off the shelf fits.)
36h double eyeleted (29ER "Downhill") rim, DTSwiss hybrid hub. (Joked "Any more bulletproof, someone would want to send it to Ukraine."
Two commute days old.
Its been ~ 10 weeks so far and the warranty fix is still on the way. I'd guess if they supply a rim, it'd be ~ 6 more (rim arrives, shipped to bike shop, Me supply broken wheel, bike shop ships to wheelbuilder etc. etc. etc.)
Link1896, as you suggest, Commuting requires dependability (and rapid spares sourcing.)
I don’t trust the warranty solution will be any more robust than the original wheel so a spare is good.
It's a long commute so a walk home failure can be a long walk. (And it will always be on the day with that 9:00 AM meeting...)
 
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