fjohn860
Crypto curious
I see this all the timePeople just keep on driving them down without reversing
I see this all the timePeople just keep on driving them down without reversing
Just don't snap taps, don't use blunt taps, I haven't snapped one in about 30 years. People just keep on driving them down without reversing, and then they grab on the swarf and jamb.![]()
EDM’s are the best way but nobody’s buying a EDM hole machine for a broken tap. Especially when there’s an oxy lying around.I've used an EDM fast hole machine to remove them too, like the oxy, it just blasts them away, just a bit more slowly and controlled.
Most of the ones I have removed were from fitters getting a bit strong handed when using a tap to clean out a thread. "Call in the boilermaker!"Just don't snap taps, don't use blunt taps, I haven't snapped one in about 30 years. People just keep on driving them down without reversing, and then they grab on the swarf and jamb.![]()
That's a bloody big tap!I have seen the carbon arc gouger take a broken tap out of a steam turbine casing. It was a 75mm dia tap. Tap had a defect. Bang. Then many many fancy words.
Oh, I've seen what sparkies do, just no self pride whatso ever.View attachment 395347
EDM’s are the best way but nobody’s buying a EDM hole machine for a broken tap. Especially when there’s an oxy lying around.
That only comes out when the cable ties keep snapping.
Look I know everyone loves to get wasted and off the tap with a great baseline but what does Detroit techno have to do with painkillers?View attachment 395347
EDM’s are the best way but nobody’s buying a EDM hole machine for a broken tap. Especially when there’s an oxy lying around.
Some things a just made for each other.Look I know everyone loves to get wasted and off the tap with a great baseline but what does Detroit techno have to do with painkillers?
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The studs are hollow. They are screwed into the lower half, top casing goes on after inner casings. Then the nuts are spun down by hand then an inductance heater drops into the hollow stud. Once the stud has stretched enough the nuts are again spun down by hand and voila torque setting achieved! No torque multipliers, no fancy hydraulic spanners. Those are to get the nuts undone next overhaul.Most of the ones I have removed were from fitters getting a bit strong handed when using a tap to clean out a thread. "Call in the boilermaker!"
That's a bloody big tap!
On the subject of welding helmets, I'm in the market for a new one but not really in that price range. It will be for home use Tig and ideally a true colour with the abiliity to hold a magnifying lense as I've got old man eyes. I've seen a few suggestions on these being ok, has anyone else got any suggestions?I don't do anywhere near as much welding as I used to these days, but have definitely become more conscious of the health hazards that come with it as I've gotten older.
Picked up a 3M G5-01 with an Adflo filtered air unit a little while ago.
It's actually made welding more enjoyable by knowing I'm not sucking down noxious fumes for extended periods...should have bought one of these 10 years ago...
Something like that will more than likely be fine, especially for home use. The one I bought is actually the first auto-helmet I've ever bought as doing TIG work in factories under various types of lighting I found that cheaper auto helmets would spontaneously turn off and blind you mid weld. Flickering lights, fluro tubes, even a flashing light on a passing forklift is enough to interfere with the sensors, so Ive used a trusty $20 flip-up lid for the last 15 years. When its down its dark and you know you're not going to get flash.On the subject of welding helmets, I'm in the market for a new one but not really in that price range. It will be for home use Tig and ideally a true colour with the abiliity to hold a magnifying lense as I've got old man eyes. I've seen a few suggestions on these being ok, has anyone else got any suggestions?
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RWX8000™ Welding Helmet | UNIMIG Welding Supplies
1/1/1/1 Classification | 5-13 Shade Control | 4 Arc Sensors | ELITEVISION™ Lens Technology | 100x83.4mm View Area | 5-Point Harness | Backup Batteryunimig.com.au
I think the cheapest 3M Speedglas is now around the $300 mark. My Speedglas must be close to 20 years old now and has been flawless, although the quality may have changed over time. Even so, like Mattyp I will often use an ancient CIG flip up (albeit with a massive viewing area).On the subject of welding helmets, I'm in the market for a new one but not really in that price range. It will be for home use Tig and ideally a true colour with the abiliity to hold a magnifying lense as I've got old man eyes. I've seen a few suggestions on these being ok, has anyone else got any suggestions?
![]()
RWX8000™ Welding Helmet | UNIMIG Welding Supplies
1/1/1/1 Classification | 5-13 Shade Control | 4 Arc Sensors | ELITEVISION™ Lens Technology | 100x83.4mm View Area | 5-Point Harness | Backup Batteryunimig.com.au
So it doesn't have a flip up welding lens with a clear lens underneath?The flip helmet I have sort of looks like this one:
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Lincoln Viking Industrial Passive Shade 11 Black Welding Helmet K3371-1 | eBay
Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Lincoln Viking Industrial Passive Shade 11 Black Welding Helmet K3371-1 at the best online prices at eBay!www.ebay.com.au
I now need to wear multi-focal glasses and the big range of up-down vision through the lens is great for that.
I swap one or both the pins on the "letterbox" flip lens out for bits of wire to fine tune how easy it is to shut it with a quick nod. I never flip the whole helmet down just before welding. Just snap the small lens downNo. You flip the whole helmet up and then a quick nod of the head has it back down again. Hands-free darkening![]()