i did a 3 day bike/hike to machu earlier this year. seriously one of the highlights of my life. couldnt do the inca trail cause it was booked out and due to a landslide you couldnt go through the sungate.
i was literally first in in the morning and first up Wayna Picchu.
here is my entry on it taken from my travel site
http://www.travelpod.com/members/shirtz
"Cusco, ahhh what a top place...that is if every kid on the street would stop trying to sell me finger puppets!!!
Anyway, lets begin.
I arrived here with ray and marina (our new sweed travel companion) on fri 21st April. We booked into a nice hostel up the hill from the very European central plaza. We headed out to dinner then decided to head out to check out a few clubs. We ended up in some one that looked like a volcano. The place was rockin and we were the only gringos in there for hours. We certainly got some attention (only blonde and only 2 guys over 6 foot in the place) but we had a top time. Sat night we decided to go out properly. We heard that al the clubs give out free drinks to entice the gringos in so we went hunting. It didnt take us long to find the free booze and a good night was had by all. Somehow i still ended up spending a fortune, but hey, thus is life.
On monday we booked ourselves into some white water rafting. We had the option of doing class 2 rapids or going upstream and hitting 3+ to 4 rapids. being boys we decided to do the hard ones and poor old marina had to tag along.
I was a bit nervous at first as i have never done rafting, but after a few minutes we all got the drift and headed for the hard stuff.
Our guide was tops and lead us though without incident. Near the end, there was the biggest rapids in the trip and he warned us there was a big rock in the middle which threw up a massive wall of water which we needed to avoid otherwise we would capsize. Well of course, our lack of skills finally caught up with us and we ended up going straight at it. The guide yelled "everyone in the boat" but i didn't hear him and stayed paddling on the edge. some how we made it over this wall of water (imagine the movie "the perfect storm" with me as George clooney, but we didnt die) and u will get a picture of how it was. We also have a video of the event which is classic to see the guide after it shaking his head at the camera!
After surviving that we had a few days rest and tried to figure out how we were going to get to Machupichu. The weather report kept telling us it was going to rain, but we bit the bullet and booked a 4 day hike/bike starting on thurs 27th.
DAY 1
We met at the office at 7:30am and met our guide Antonio, a 24 year old tourism student. Ray and I were the only 2 on the tour so it was goin to be close quarters for a few days. We headed off to a dodgy tour bus for a 4 hour bus ride to our starting point with the bikes at 4700m. The bus ride was sooo scary. Up top i t was raining and all dirt. Many parts were only single lane with a vertical drop off the edge. I was hoping these drivers were well trained! We made it to the start point at about 1pm and unloaded the bikes. The road was very muddy due to roadworks and rain and we got covered in mud instantly and continuously for the next 4 hours. Just as we would dry off we would hit a river crossing and get soaked again!
We made it to Santa Marina, 1700m (our first of several one horse towns) at about 5pm and headed straight for the (cold) showers. The ride was sweet and had some amazing views. After dinner we hit the sack to prepare for the big hike the next day.
DAY 2
Up and on the road by 6.30am with a 9 hour hike in front of us. The scenery was amazing and we got to walk through some dodgy coca plantations which was cool to see. We also had to climb a massive mountain which was damn hard..especially at 9am!!
At about 11am we stopped at some ladies farm for a break. She had a monkey named "Hacento" which was heaps fun to play with. He seemed to like me until i stepped on him and he went crying to his mummy. What a wuss. The lady also had a pig which was a cack. i have a heaps funny video of it i will try to post when i get a chance.
After the break we walked a few more hours and had to cross a river using this dodgy dolly thing. Im not sure how often they are serviced, but im sure they are safe (not!)
We survived that and were rewarded about an hour later with a dip in the hot springs. We spent the night in another crappy town "Santa Teresa" where the mozzies were big enough to carry us away.
Day 3
Another dolly even more dodgy than the day before were the start of day 3. The hike to Aguas Calenete (pardon my spelling) wasn't as fun as the other days but passed by a crazy river which was used for hydro electricity, no rafting here!
Lots more nice views though and a few hours of train track walking (much like Chinese water torture) and we were in Aguas Calenete, just a stone throw from machupicchu. I broke out my victory skittles and had a top feed and well deserved beer.
Day 4 Machu:
Up and on the road at 4.30am. We decided to walk to machu instead of catch the bus with all the lazy tourists. It was a big acheviement, but damn it was hard work! It took a bit less than an hour of hardcore vertical stair walking to get to the machu gate. Probably the hardest climbing i have done, but well worth it to be the first there (even beat the bus!). Unfortunately we were destroyed to find out the gates didnt open til 6am!
As soon as the gates open i bolted up to Machu. It was amazing to finally be here, after dreaming about it for so long. It was awesome to have a few minute by myself too before the hordes of tourists came up. After some happy snaps and a look around the top of machu we headed across to the face our next task, climbing wanapichu. Machu itself is amazing. all the hype is correct. i recommend you should go because i have been told that it is sinking and its only a matter of time before it is closed to the public.
We reached the walkway to wana at 6.30am only to find the gate was closed and wouldn't open till 7am...screwed over again!
We sat and waited and shot though the gate as soon as it opened. Seeing i was goin well with "firsts" that morning i decided i wanted to be the first up wanapichu too so i put on the pace and ended up getting up there in 25ish minutes (its meant to take an hour!). It was a very steep climb and not for the faint-hearted. I have no idea how i got up there so quick, but the view was worth it. A few minutes later i was joined by a native Peruvian who did some blessings and played a song on his wood flute. it was so amazing i cant imagine to tell you what it was like. By far the highlight of my trip so far. We sat at the top of the world overlooking machu for about an hour before the masses showed up and ray and i decided to go explore Machu better.
At 11.30am we decided to head down the stairs to Aguas we had struggled up in the dark that morning..they were even hard to go down so i dont know how we made it up!
Back in aquas we had a top feed and another well earned beer and reflected over an amazing morning.
So after 4 days of wearing the same clothes, having no soap or deodorant, we hoped the train back to cusco.
So thats it, one of the big things of SA off the list. i plan to spend another day or so in cusco then head west to the beach and finally get below 3000m for a while!
ciao for now
matt
PS. if you read all that, then your obviously keen to do it, SO DO IT