Help! Cassette lockring stuck!!

[stirk]

I am attempting to 1x10 my bike and install a 42T cog on the cassette I've spent the afternoon trying to get the cassette lockring off my rear wheel and have had my arse whipped by the bloody thing!

Have chainwhip, lockring tool, large spanner and 2 foot steel tube 'encourager' on the spanner.

I'm turning the lockring tool opposite to the arrow on the lockring so yes in the right direction but it's not budging. I even bent the chain whip trying. Also tried putting the lockring tool in a vice and just leverage on the chainwhip, bent chainwhip again.

40nm should not be so hard to undo!

Think I need to take to the LBS to get removed.

What dramas have others had with removing these bloody things?

 

[silentbutdeadly]

Never had that sort of hassle with a lock ring. Though I gave up on cheapskate chain whips long ago...

If you aren't working vertically though...try that. Once you get a better whip.

 

[eastie]

soak it in petrol to loosen the lock-ring. then flick a match at it.

Alternatively, use some penetrating type lube, garage variety, and let it penetrate overnight. Once it's penetrated good and proper, put that bent whip to use on the third biggest sprocket - likely attached to the carrier so it won't damage the free hub. If your ring tool has a central hole + grooves in it that will allow a socket or shifter to attach, great - otherwise use vice grips. Get a quick release skewer, shove it in the hole through your ring tool, put it in place on the ring and secure it in place with the QR. Apply the shifter/socket wrench to the ring tool and vwahla... This setup, with an extension if your shifter is too short, will allow maximum exertion on the unyielding ring until something either naps or breaks loose.

 

[Nautonier]

I had all of the inner teeth of the lockring strip while doing it up super tight to remove an annoying creak. Fortunately it was a bikeshop who did this (it was so tight from the last time they took it off that I couldn't get it undone myself) and they happily gave me a brand new X01 cassette and hope XD driver as warranty replacements!

Sounds like it's been over-tightened, you should proceed with caution and probably take it to a bike shop and let it be their responsibility. That's kinda what you pay for.

 

[stirk]

I'm trying to undo it with wheel vertical and the chainwhip and spanner are at 9 and 3 o'clock respectively, arms pushing straight down, this seems to give the most power.

Maybe I just need to go to the gym.

 

[fatboyonabike]

try it with both handles just apart from each other, and grip both handles together and squeeze!..i.e. chainwhip handle at 3oclock and shifter at 2oclock.
once you crack it, then go back to your 3 and 9 system

 

[Trumpy]

Try hitting the spanner ( I use a a socket driver instead) with a decent rubber mallet. Often the instant shock load can free up a stuck locking.

 

[stirk]

Try hitting the spanner ( I use a a socket driver instead) with a decent rubber mallet. Often the instant shock load can free up a stuck locking.

I didn't try this out of fear of the lockring tool misaligning and chewing up the teeth of the lockring which would then require the good old angle grinder.

Also I'd think the shock of the mallet on the lockring tool would largely be absorbed by my other hand holding the chainwhip?

It looks like a two person job, both with breaker bars, one on chainwhip and the other on the lockring tool spanner.

Thanks guys, I'll take it to the bike shop, hopefully they will take on the job!

 

[mitchy_]

I had all of the inner teeth of the lockring strip while doing it up super tight to remove an annoying creak. Fortunately it was a bikeshop who did this (it was so tight from the last time they took it off that I couldn't get it undone myself) and they happily gave me a brand new X01 cassette and hope XD driver as warranty replacements!

Sounds like it's been over-tightened, you should proceed with caution and probably take it to a bike shop and let it be their responsibility. That's kinda what you pay for.

Unless it was the same shop that fitted the lock ring too tight, you'd be hard pressed to have them replace the items if they are damaged upon removal.

Your scenario was obviously this case, but taking something in that you've hamfistedly done and expecting them to rectify it if it goes pear shaped might end quite rudely for yourself...

 

[moorey]

Your scenario was obviously this case, but taking something in that you've hamfistedly done and expecting them to rectify it if it goes pear shaped might end quite rudely for yourself...

This is a job for a chuntstick. Might get a whole new bike out of it.

 

[Nautonier]

Unless it was the same shop that fitted the lock ring too tight, you'd be hard pressed to have them replace the items if they are damaged upon removal.

Your scenario was obviously this case, but taking something in that you've hamfistedly done and expecting them to rectify it if it goes pear shaped might end quite rudely for yourself...

Absolutely, my feeling is that the OP should stop before he damages something and ends up in this predicament. Fortunately when I was in the same situation I stopped and took it into the bike shop before I ruined anything. Bike shop got it off OK, but wrecked it upon re-installation. I'm sure the amount of force required to remove it didn't help matters. Removing a lockring at 40nm shouldn't be that hard.

 

[ChrisJC]

I didn't try this out of fear of the lockring tool misaligning and chewing up the teeth of the lockring which would then require the good old angle grinder.

Also I'd think the shock of the mallet on the lockring tool would largely be absorbed by my other hand holding the chainwhip?

It looks like a two person job, both with breaker bars, one on chainwhip and the other on the lockring tool spanner.

Thanks guys, I'll take it to the bike shop, hopefully they will take on the job!

Take to it with an angle grinder. Grind a couple of slots on the front face being careful not to go too deep. This may weaken it enough to make it loose it's grip.

 

[nzdans]

Take to it with an angle grinder. Grind a couple of slots on the front face being careful not to go too deep. This may weaken it enough to make it loose it's grip.

I reckon this is probably the direction I'd take also. If you have a Dremel that could do a tidy job as well...

 

[pink poodle]

Grinder...dremmel...bench drill. Just show thebfucker who is boss!



Get a friend and 2 lengths of pipe. Attach tools as per eastie's advice and pull away from each other in the correct direction. Boom! Celebrate with beverage of choice.

 

[MARKL]

Take to it with an angle grinder. Grind a couple of slots on the front face being careful not to go too deep. This may weaken it enough to make it loose it's grip.

I reckon this is probably the direction I'd take also. If you have a Dremel that could do a tidy job as well...

NFI...^^^

Where are you based Stirk? There may be a 'burner that can lend a hand.

 

[Pastavore]

Yep, more leverage is your friend.

 

[pink poodle]

NFI...^^^

Where are you based Stirk? There may be a 'burner that can lend a hand.

I have 1 really strong hand.

 

[ChrisJC]

Yep, more leverage is your friend.

Amen to that! My wife's bike had a pedal that wouldn't play nice despite being beaten with a hammer, persuaded with a blow torch and sprayed with chemicals. Ended up wedging a 4ft piece of 4x2 between the crank and the strongest part of the seattube where the suspension pivots are, and then proceeded to attach a 1.5m x 63mm square metal fence post to the end of my 15mm spanner. Worked a charm!

 

[markgab]

I had a similar issue a week ago.

Never touched external bb and i couldn't remove it.
Sprayed wd40 for 2 hours and miraculously with much strength i was able to loosen it.

Wd40 does wonders !!
If you do use wd40, make sure to service your bearings etc.

 

[Gripo]

soak it in petrol to loosen the lock-ring. then flick a match at it.

Had to look twice.....that's a Knuckles/Moorey type answer....lol

Guarenteed a result for sure?