VIC FOUND - M7000 or M8000 170mm Boost Cranks

beeb

Dr. Beebenson, PhD HA, ST, Offset (hons)
  • Item needed: 170mm Shimano Boost offset cranks - either SLX M7000 or XT M8000 - Must be 170mm/Boost.
  • Location: Melbourne/Western Suburbs, or if you can post
  • Item condition description: Very good/excellent. I don't mind if they have the typical Shimano rub marks or light scratches, no deep scratches or crank strike dents.
  • Price and price conditions: Reasonable, somewhat less than new.
  • Extra Info: (Boost cranks should be marked with either Boost or B1 (ie: M8000-B1) on the driveside crank. Can trade for a M8000 175mm set in either boost or non-boost is preferred.
 

moorey

call me Mia
FWIW, I kept the non boost cranks in my lads new boost frame. Even with PF, not allowing spacers, it’s been perfect.
 

beeb

Dr. Beebenson, PhD HA, ST, Offset (hons)
FWIW, I kept the non boost cranks in my lads new boost frame. Even with PF, not allowing spacers, it’s been perfect.
New frame is very tight for clearance with non-boost cranks/chainrings. 30t will just fit but it's closer than I feel comfortable with and runs the chain partially over an area of carbon with no protection. Bit too nerve wracking for me.
 

moorey

call me Mia
New frame is very tight for clearance with non-boost cranks/chainrings. 30t will just fit but it's closer than I feel comfortable with and runs the chain partially over an area of carbon with no protection. Bit too nerve wracking for me.
Fair enough is it PF?
 

beeb

Dr. Beebenson, PhD HA, ST, Offset (hons)
Short cranks for you @beeb?
I prefer them for pedaling while standing as I don't feel like I have to bend my knees/bring my knees up as much, and doesn't make much difference while seated. Had 175mm cranks on current bike and tried a spare set of 170mm's to play with standing "sprint" feel (I'm still slow though, lol) and preferred them, but they're non-boost and as above too close for comfort on the new frame coming...
 

wkkie

It's Not Easy Being Green
If you can deal with the 175, try these. They're boost, just not listed as boost...

 

beeb

Dr. Beebenson, PhD HA, ST, Offset (hons)
If you can deal with the 175, try these. They're boost, just not listed as boost...

Ta anyway, I have a 175mm set already. Specifically chasing the 170mm in this instance.
 

beeb

Dr. Beebenson, PhD HA, ST, Offset (hons)
Ripley 4?
Long response - apologies...

New bike will be the one bike I didn't think I'd buy again - another Ripmo, but a size L this time. Sounds counter-intuitive given I'm 6'2", but it's basically the same sizing when standing/descending as my current 5010 which feels pretty bang on, and I've briefly ridden both a size L Ripmo and size L Trance 29er recently and I just felt like I could absolutely rip corners with the shorter (reach) sizing on these two bikes - plus negiotiate tight sections of trail and pull manuals way easier. If I feel I need to down the track, I can still add a bit more front centre and slacken the head angle with a angle-set as they still have press-in headset cups.

Basically the reason for the change is I've been struggling a lot climbing (when seated) on the 5010 as it pretty much permanently wants to wheelie - steep fireroads are the most noticeable but unfortunately that's also what most of my climbs consist of. So even with the seat slammed forward and sitting right out on the nose of the seat - I get lots of back-ache wrestling to keep the front wheel down. Ripmo will likely feel a little more cramped when doing seated climbing, but also will be much kinder on my back - and will give a good balance overall between the current 5010 and the XL Ripmo I had previously for all other riding. Personally I just found the XL Ripmo a bit too long, and I had a fairly heavy wheelset on it so it always felt slow and like it was a lot of bike to muscle around. If I rode high country shuttles all the time, I'd have gone another XL, but for tooling about at my local trails it just felt too big and awkward in the tight bits, and didn't come alive until the trails opened up and the speed flattered the longer wheelbase.

The Ripley 4 was what started the new bike lust kicking, but after a short time I started thinking about upgrading the fork and shock, and then that I do still ride aggresively and in places that warrant a little extra travel at times - so the Ripmo just made more sense. It'll still be plenty efficient enough for me on climbs (I'm no racer), but with more adjustable suspension and more travel if needed, but just that touch smaller & still light enough for just goofing around and having fun riding than the XL was, instead of having to just go flat-out fast. I enjoy mucking around trail riding more than true enduro riding, so this'll be a long-legged trail bike, and most importantly for me - will still fit a stupidly long dropper post so I can position the bike wherever the hell I feel like. :)
 

Mr Crudley

Glock in your sock
Basically the reason for the change is I've been struggling a lot climbing (when seated) on the 5010 as it pretty much permanently wants to wheelie - steep fireroads are the most noticeable but unfortunately that's also what most of my climbs consist of. So even with the seat slammed forward and sitting right out on the nose of the seat - I get lots of back-ache wrestling to keep the front wheel down.
I know that feeling even on the TRc. The nose can wander a bit and you have to keep it pointed down. Probably the main reason for wider bars was to let you hunch over them and push down. Were you running 140mm or more on your 5010. Do you use any suspension lockout while climbing?

I have to forgive it since it is really a bunch of fun on the way down though.

I have a mental image of your perch on the tip of the nose of the seat and it isn't good either.
 

beeb

Dr. Beebenson, PhD HA, ST, Offset (hons)
I know that feeling even on the TRc. The nose can wander a bit and you have to keep it pointed down. Probably the main reason for wider bars was to let you hunch over them and push down. Were you running 140mm or more on your 5010. Do you use any suspension lockout while climbing?

I have to forgive it since it is really a bunch of fun on the way down though.

I have a mental image of your perch on the tip of the nose of the seat and it isn't good either.
Yeah the 5010 has got a 140mm fork on it at the moment ("overforked" by 10mm), as the Fox 36 just matches the build it has currently so much better. I sometimes use the 'Trail' setting on fireroad climbs with the DPX2, but not the 'Climb' setting as it is super firm and tends to exaggerate the willingness of the bike to wheelie too much. I don't think it's me having horrible pedalling technique either as I don't seem to get much pedal bob (even with the shock open) anymore. I used to, but have smoothed my pedal strokes out a lot over time to reduce it.

It's obviously not actually a bad climbing bike, just the slightly slackened off already somewhat-slack seat angle leaves me feeling like I'm sitting balanced right on the tipping point all the time when climbing, and my back doesn't enjoy me trying to keep myself low and forward to wrestle the front down (and honestly I'm just not fit enough to stand and mash all the time). The new Ripmo won't do everything perfectly, but it is the best compromise I could find to be the most fun and playful all around bike. The shorter wheelbase might be a negative in chunky rocky descents or if I'm trying to do seated climbs where there's tight switchbacks, but for the flickability and versatility through everthing else I'll get in return I'll live with it. ;)
 

Tubbsy

Packin' a small bird
Staff member
Long response - apologies...
Hmmm, thanks for your thoughts. I like my LS, but it’s a tad short for me at 192cm. The new Ripley in L has quite a lot more reach already
448 -> 475 with an XL all the way out at 500... I think I need to take the punt on the XL, but I take your point about a long dropper on the L possibly offering the best of both worlds. Don’t want it to feel like a boat.

I’d leave the fork at 130 though and the plan is to replace the hard tail with something long travel.

Don’t want to mess up my ‘main bike’ decision though, so aargh.
 
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Mr Crudley

Glock in your sock
Yeah the 5010 has got a 140mm fork on it at the moment ("overforked" by 10mm), as the Fox 36 just matches the build it has currently so much better. I sometimes use the 'Trail' setting on fireroad climbs with the DPX2, but not the 'Climb' setting as it is super firm and tends to exaggerate the willingness of the bike to wheelie too much. I don't think it's me having horrible pedalling technique either as I don't seem to get much pedal bob (even with the shock open) anymore. I used to, but have smoothed my pedal strokes out a lot over time to reduce it.
I have always hated lock out levers for no rational reason and never really used one. I climb seated and one of my SC's have ever bobbed enough to bother me. I have 130mm up front and 125mm out back on the Blur. I think going to 140mm would be something to try in future and could always dial in a bit more sag I suppose. The TRc / 5010 both look to be blessed with a highish front end and we have to call it trade off. The Heckler was much more natural to climb with but it will also wander a bit when it gets stupidly steep.

Did I say it was load of fun going down though.

It's obviously not actually a bad climbing bike, just the slightly slackened off already somewhat-slack seat angle leaves me feeling like I'm sitting balanced right on the tipping point all the time when climbing, and my back doesn't enjoy me trying to keep myself low and forward to wrestle the front down (and honestly I'm just not fit enough to stand and mash all the time). The new Ripmo won't do everything perfectly, but it is the best compromise I could find to be the most fun and playful all around bike. The shorter wheelbase might be a negative in chunky rocky descents or if I'm trying to do seated climbs where there's tight switchbacks, but for the flickability and versatility through everthing else I'll get in return I'll live with it. ;)
I see where you coming from. now you have difficult choices each ride - it is a 5010 or Ripmo day? :)
 

beeb

Dr. Beebenson, PhD HA, ST, Offset (hons)
Hmmm, thanks for your thoughts. I like my LS, but it’s a tad short for me at 192cm. The new Ripley in L has quite a lot more reach already
448 -> 475 with an XL all the way out at 500... I think I need to take the punt on the XL, but I take your point about a long dropper on the L possibly offering the best of both worlds. Don’t want it to feel like a boat.

I’d leave the fork at 130 though and the plan is to replace the hard tail with something long travel.

Don’t want to mess up my ‘main bike’ decision though, so aargh.
The new XL will be fine if you don't mind riding in a middle or forward position the vast majority of the time. I was fine with this in theory, but found at times when I wanted to pull a low speed manual (ie: going up step-ups in the trail) or doing weird pivoting around the rear wheel manuals into drops (hard to explain, but try to imagine an awkward step-down entering a tight, sharp corner) I couldn't shove my weight back far enough to pick up and turn the front or get behind the seat as easily as I liked unless I was moving at speed so tended to get trapped running wide in some tight/techy corners when descending as I couldn't pivot around the rear of the bike and drop the front where I wanted. To be fair - I probably ride a bit weird though, and tend to either be on top of the bars for maximum front grip or hanging off the back of the bike trying to pop or loft the front over everything so your mileage may vary...
 

hifiandmtb

Sphincter beanie
You’ve had a ride of the XL Ripmo; how tall are you and what’s your opinion on fit?
Honestly, felt a little short with the steep seat tube. I'd run a minimum 50mm stem.

Love love love love love the handling but.

When I buy the XL frame from @beeb, I'll run a lightweight build & 150mm fork.
 
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