First XACD Ti frame
- Thread starter Litenbror
- Start date
dazz
Downhill Dazz
Are these ALL threaded inserts?So I have been back and forth with Porter this week putting together the design. They are very efficient like Waltly, you send in your changes and they have them back within the day. I sent this one this morning and it came back this afternoon.
It's getting very close to finished. I have shortened the seat post to take a 170mm dropper and changes the braze ons for bottle mounts but the rest is quite similar to the current HT it just fixes a few little niggles I have with this one.
Happy for any thoughts or things to consider, and yes @Tubbsy it takes a lot of its geo from the Paradox
View attachment 381654
Some look like sensible spots for bottle mounts and what-not but I'm scratching my head on some of the others...
Looks to me like a few of 'em should've been cable mounts and not threaded inserts.
Litenbror
Eats Squid
I'm going to use bolt on cable guides for all of the routing so the ones that are 64mm apart are for bottles and the others are for cable guides.
dazz
Downhill Dazz
Gotcha! Getting bolts into those top 2 nearest the head tube is gonna be tight!!!!
Litenbror
Eats Squid
I've checked the measurements a few times but I need to go back again and check now. There are a few available to 3d print which can be filed down to fit in tight spots.
dazz
Downhill Dazz
Do you have CAD? Getting the first one in will be OK, what about getting the second one in. Won't the one you've just installed be in the way? How far do the mounts protrude and what head screws you using? If using M5 x 12 c'sunk head screws and the mounts are very low profile you might be OK.
Sorry for spinning you out if it's all good!
Litenbror
Eats Squid
No these are all good questions. I had not thought about the process of actually getting them in, I had just measured that they would fit. I'm thinking now that the first one on the down tube might need to move about 10mm down to give enough clearance to install them both.
beeb
Dr. Beebenson, PhD HA, ST, Offset (hons)
I'd add another insert between the upper two on top of the downtube. It's a rattle-prone area, especially going around the outside of a curve, just after a single clamp holding brake hoses/cables that are repeatedly being pushed/pulled every time you turn the bars. The clamps either need to truly clamp the cables/hose, or you'll likely get some slip and free play in the cables.So I have been back and forth with Porter this week putting together the design. They are very efficient like Waltly, you send in your changes and they have them back within the day. I sent this one this morning and it came back this afternoon.
It's getting very close to finished. I have shortened the seat post to take a 170mm dropper and changes the braze ons for bottle mounts but the rest is quite similar to the current HT it just fixes a few little niggles I have with this one.
Happy for any thoughts or things to consider, and yes @Tubbsy it takes a lot of its geo from the Paradox
View attachment 381654
Also if you are looking to keep the option of running the rear brake hose and shifter cables down the down tube, you might want to consider adding cable guides along the seat-stays. Although my comfort factor having additional welds mid seat-stay wouldn't be that high if I'm honest (thinking long term fatigue cycling here). It may also be worth considering using a straighter downtube (at the headtube end), to allow for a strengthening gusset under the down tube where it joins the headtube.
If you're getting really OCD, get the dropper-cable port rotated slightly off the centreline of the seat-tube, as the cable won't be running centrally down the downtube due to the offset of the clamps.
dazz
Downhill Dazz
Also remember if you're using socket head screws you need to be able to at least get the ball end of a hex key in there, or be prepared to cut one of your keys down.
Litenbror
Eats Squid
Honestly looking at the design I'm thinking internal routing for the dropper will be easier... I seem to remember someone saying that earlierI'd add another insert between the upper two on top of the downtube. It's a rattle-prone area, especially going around the outside of a curve, just after a single clamp holding brake hoses/cables that are repeatedly being pushed/pulled every time you turn the bars. The clamps either need to truly clamp the cables/hose, or you'll likely get some slip and free play in the cables.
Also if you are looking to keep the option of running the rear brake hose and shifter cables down the down tube, you might want to consider adding cable guides along the seat-stays. Although my comfort factor having additional welds mid seat-stay wouldn't be that high if I'm honest (thinking long term fatigue cycling here). It may also be worth considering using a straighter downtube (at the headtube end), to allow for a strengthening gusset under the down tube where it joins the headtube.
If you're getting really OCD, get the dropper-cable port rotated slightly off the centreline of the seat-tube, as the cable won't be running centrally down the downtube due to the offset of the clamps.
Litenbror
Eats Squid
Yeah happy to cut one if need be but will try and design enough clearance not to need to.
Litenbror
Eats Squid
So are you thinking something like the Bfe
Or more like this?
I'm not familiar with the specifics of different gussets and their locations so would be interested in everyone's thoughts.
beeb
Dr. Beebenson, PhD HA, ST, Offset (hons)
Yes.
Err... maybe. I dunno to be honest. It was something I felt like I should've added on my Waltlys, forgot about it at the time. Instinct suggests nearer to the Cotic's, just with a little more seperation from the downtube where it meets the headtube.
wkkie
It's Not Easy Being Green
I ordered mine from CRC...
International update | Chain Reaction
An information update for customers outside the UK.
I used the double, but looks to be unavailable now.
wkkie
It's Not Easy Being Green
You could always move them more to the outside of the frame if that suits your routing.
This is the rear brake hose mounting on mine. I've got the bolt on in the headtube, running the brake and dropper around the opposite side of the headtube then the brake crossing underneath the top tube, with the dropper running along the slight outside of the down tube into the port that's offset as @beeb suggested .
SummitFever
Eats Squid
It's a real can of worms. You want the gusset to add strength but it can actually create a stress riser or fulcrum if it's not done properly. Unless you can run some FEA you'll need to rely on what xcad have done in the past that works. No gussets might be fine too.
Litenbror
Eats Squid
Gave them the go ahead last week so its in the wind now. Got written agreement that it would be here within 3 months so will see what happens but if it takes longer so be it.
So far working with XACD has been fine, Porter wasn't as polite as Waltly but better than many people I deal with on a daily basis so no dramas yet. Also none of the mistakes that Waltly were making with the design, for example if I change something like the seat tube length the reach number didn't change (nearly missed this with my Waltly), so that was reassuring.
Will keep this up to date sporadically as the frame is due late January.
So far working with XACD has been fine, Porter wasn't as polite as Waltly but better than many people I deal with on a daily basis so no dramas yet. Also none of the mistakes that Waltly were making with the design, for example if I change something like the seat tube length the reach number didn't change (nearly missed this with my Waltly), so that was reassuring.
Will keep this up to date sporadically as the frame is due late January.