Di2Q

Status
Not open for further replies.

Asininedrivel

caviar connoisseur
Not all. Financial problems is the main hurdle.
Was doing a trawl around online stores (as you do) and it looks like AXS stuff is actually cheaper than Di2. Quite a bit cheaper if you go GX (which apparently suffers no noticeable reduction in shifting quality over the more expensive stuff).

Appreciate it's still mind-numbingly pricey for a drivetrain, but would be willing to bet a GX AXS derailleur & shifter is going to come in for less than Di2 derailleur / shifter / wires / battery thingy / crap
 

moorey

call me Mia
Was doing a trawl around online stores (as you do) and it looks like AXS stuff is actually cheaper than Di2. Quite a bit cheaper if you go GX (which apparently suffers no noticeable reduction in shifting quality over the more expensive stuff).

Appreciate it's still mind-numbingly pricey for a drivetrain, but would be willing to bet a GX AXS derailleur & shifter is going to come in for less than Di2 derailleur / shifter / wires / battery thingy / crap
I’d have to go 12sp, adding a cassette etc.
My rookie error was seeing a well priced shifter and mech. I didn’t factor in the rest. The project is off the table.
Cheers though.
 

Asininedrivel

caviar connoisseur
Ah, would've seen that if I'd read the whole thread, oops.

Are you using a Garbaruk cage extender with the cassette? I know two people who've got Garbaruk stuff and don't rate it for shifting quality, which really sucks as I talked one of them into buying it in the first place because I thought it'd be awesome.
 

moorey

call me Mia
Ah, would've seen that if I'd read the whole thread, oops.

Are you using a Garbaruk cage extender with the cassette? I know two people who've got Garbaruk stuff and don't rate it for shifting quality, which really sucks as I talked one of them into buying it in the first place because I thought it'd be awesome.
Haven’t tried the Garbaruk yet.
Felix's Sunrace 10-46 shifts beautifully and seems solid. A little heavier, but meh.
I’ve been doing longer test on a ZTTO 9-42. Matches the 10-46 range, it’s doing really well. Also to test the ZTTO 9-46. Excellent range, dubious about longevity.
E13 9-46 was used. It’s got issues, but good range.
Other 10-46 is an X01 10-42 with the 46 swapped to a 46. Haven’t used it a lot, but it works well.
Using hanger extenders on some bikes. I’ve been tempted to try the Wolf cage, haven’t yet.
 

Tubbsy

Packin' a small bird
Staff member
Ah, would've seen that if I'd read the whole thread, oops.

Are you using a Garbaruk cage extender with the cassette? I know two people who've got Garbaruk stuff and don't rate it for shifting quality, which really sucks as I talked one of them into buying it in the first place because I thought it'd be awesome.
I have a Garbaruk cassette and extender working fine on 11 speed, no complaints so far.
 

beeb

Dr. Beebenson, PhD HA, ST, Offset (hons)
The Garbaruk 11-50 (with Wolfcage derailleur mod) shifted great - except for the third gear up from smallest cog. It was easy dropping from a bigger gear down onto it, but didn't like climbing the cassette up to it. Every other gear was perfect except that one. I even bent the teeth that catch and lift the chain out a bit to the point the chain would lightly click against the teeth if you were pedalling the next gear down and it was still a little reluctant to shift up. It was really weird, but consistent across a few different bikes too. T'was a couple of years back now though, so may have been resolved (hopefully). They are beautifully light and quite hard-wearing though in my experience.
 

The Duckmeister

Has a juicy midrange
Also I actually think it might be the cable outer compressing when it's wearing in. The inner cable doesn't stretch, common misconception.
You'd be wrong there Frogboy. Inner cables do stretch, and outers (usually) take a fair while to deform, although the inner layer can wear through over time, causing more friction.

Inner cables aren't straight; the constituent wires are coil-wound, so each time tension is applied they straighten out just a little bit, but especially so early in the cable's life.

Outer gear cable casing nearly always has non-coiled reinforcing, which only begins to compress when the outer/binding skin degrades, allowing the structural wires to separate and blow the housing apart.

The RS900 housing is a coil-wound housing, only available in short bits because some roadie frame manufacturers decided to pop the rear derailleur cable out of the frame right on the dropout and "needed" the better flexibility. The trade-offs are the coil-wound housing is more prone to compression than straight-laid, plus the inner liner wears faster due to the tighter curve.
 

frenchman

Eats cheese. Sells crack.
You'd be wrong there Frogboy. Inner cables do stretch, and outers (usually) take a fair while to deform, although the inner layer can wear through over time, causing more friction.

Inner cables aren't straight; the constituent wires are coil-wound, so each time tension is applied they straighten out just a little bit, but especially so early in the cable's life.

Outer gear cable casing nearly always has non-coiled reinforcing, which only begins to compress when the outer/binding skin degrades, allowing the structural wires to separate and blow the housing apart.

The RS900 housing is a coil-wound housing, only available in short bits because some roadie frame manufacturers decided to pop the rear derailleur cable out of the frame right on the dropout and "needed" the better flexibility. The trade-offs are the coil-wound housing is more prone to compression than straight-laid, plus the inner liner wears faster due to the tighter curve.
The more you know. I’ll edit my bullshit. :oops:
@moorey what is the reason for using the sunrace and not the 11-46 shimano m8000 rear cassette?
 
Last edited:

moorey

call me Mia
The more you know. I’ll edit my bullshit. :oops:
@moorey what is the reason for using the sunrace and not the 11-46 shimano m8000 rear cassette?
HG bites, and 11t bites more. Dropping a couple of teeth at the small end increases top end speed so much. I much prefer the XD.
Sunrace was an experiment. Couldn’t stomach $500+ on an e13 9-46 when the one I already have plays up.
 

hifiandmtb

Sphincter beanie
You'd be wrong there Frogboy. Inner cables do stretch, and outers (usually) take a fair while to deform, although the inner layer can wear through over time, causing more friction.

Inner cables aren't straight; the constituent wires are coil-wound, so each time tension is applied they straighten out just a little bit, but especially so early in the cable's life.

Outer gear cable casing nearly always has non-coiled reinforcing, which only begins to compress when the outer/binding skin degrades, allowing the structural wires to separate and blow the housing apart.

The RS900 housing is a coil-wound housing, only available in short bits because some roadie frame manufacturers decided to pop the rear derailleur cable out of the frame right on the dropout and "needed" the better flexibility. The trade-offs are the coil-wound housing is more prone to compression than straight-laid, plus the inner liner wears faster due to the tighter curve.
Ah ha - so that's why there's 24cm sections of outer for sale...thought that was weird!

 

Rusty_68

say no to ooogamaflap
Get a 10 speed XTR set up and be done. best shifting ever. Super smooth, never misses. Avoid teflon cables like a pig on speed too.
Alternatively hunt down an ACROS hydraulic shifting system and begin pulling out any hair in places you might still have it.
 

moorey

call me Mia
Get a 10 speed XTR set up and be done. best shifting ever. Super smooth, never misses. Avoid teflon cables like a pig on speed too.
Alternatively hunt down an ACROS hydraulic shifting system and begin pulling out any hair in places you might still have it.
Hard no on the 10sp. 11 speed XT has been the most reliable and cost effective gear I’ve used in the last 20 years. I doubt that it would solve this anyway.
Having a play on the weekend. Are use a process of elimination. Before changing the cables, I’ll try the 9-42 Cassette. I’ll work backwards from there and report back.
 

Rusty_68

say no to ooogamaflap
I’ll work backwards from there and report back.
[/QUOTE]

Sounds like a plan...let me know when you've reversed back to the point at which you realise you need a new frame. That way, you can start the process all over again...I'm telling you, those 10speed XTR shifters are smoother than Rolf Harris at a school prom.
 

Asininedrivel

caviar connoisseur
They are beautifully light and quite hard-wearing though in my experience.
Yeah, hence my initial enthusiasm for spruiking them to anyone who would listen. The cassettes are works of art and weigh basically nothing. Plus it's pretty cool to support something a bit different (if they're still based in Ukraine or Poland now maybe).
The more you know. I’ll edit my bullshit. :oops:
@moorey what is the reason for using the sunrace and not the 11-46 shimano m8000 rear cassette?
In my experience the 11-46 has all the durability of brie, plus it's too heavy. Does shift really nicely with Shimano derailleurs though I'll give it that.
 

moorey

call me Mia
I’ll work backwards from there and report back.
Sounds like a plan...let me know when you've reversed back to the point at which you realise you need a new frame. That way, you can start the process all over again...I'm telling you, those 10speed XTR shifters are smoother than Rolf Harris at a school prom.
[/QUOTE]
They are indeed, I just don’t think the shifter is the issue. More the tension on the cable and the additional bends in the routing. It’s a stunning frame. Felix loves it, rides it like he stole it, and I’ll work it out.
I’m the one needing a new frame thanks. Can you impulse buy something 150mm, alloy, 450mm reach, non mullet then abandon the project? TIA
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top