Di2Q

[moorey]

I'm new to the electrickery wizardry of shifting, but now considering it for Felix...

The routing on his Revel makes for a long cable, and has lots of unavoidable bends including looping under the BB shell. As a result, I end up swapping out both inner and outer WAAAAAY to often to get perfect shifting. I can't tolerate less than perfect shifting on his bike, it will lead to broken chains and damaged cassettes with the was he rides (he's from the @ozzybmx school of kids shifting). He also likes to run a stiffer clutch than most to minimise chain slap/drop.

I happened to see an XT shifter and derailleur for less than I expected it would cost. What are the cons, aside from the expense? He hasn't busted a derailleur in 3-4 years of aggressive riding and racing. but just know he will strike a rock or collect a stick the minute he gets an expensive rear.

Any thoughts or feedback appreciated.

 

[creaky]

Only used Di2 on my roadie. Been absolutely faultless and great shifting for 5 years now .... aside from when I bent a FD cage somehow and munted a RD cage somehow, which was an expensive exercise.

Would definitely look at electronics on the mtb if the cost was more realistic. Wires are so last decade though. Why not the SRAM GX or whatever it is 'upgrade' option?

 

[moorey]

Only used Di2 on my roadie. Been absolutely faultless and great shifting for 5 years now .... aside from when I bent a FD cage somehow and munted a RD cage somehow, which was an expensive exercise.

Would definitely look at electronics on the mtb if the cost was more realistic. Wires are so last decade though. Why not the SRAM GX or whatever it is 'upgrade' option?

GX generally is passable in 11sp, shite in eagle. And not an option in 11sp wireless is it?
Planning to stay 11sp.
Cheers for the feedback though. It’s pretty attractive if the shifting is bang on.

 

[leitch]

Di2 has potential to be a bit finicky as it's fully wired so you also need to factor in both cost and complexity of wiring, junction box, battery etc. Not as simple as just the shifter and derailleur. On the road, for example, you typically use a battery that sits inside the seat post - that's obviously not going to be feasible with a dropper, so something you'll have to investigate also.

Have you looked at the wireless shift kit thing that you connect the derailleur cable to? Someone on here has it I think... Looks a bit clunky but might be a decent middle ground if you don't want to go to GX AXS.

The Archer D1x Trail Can Add Electronic Shifting to Any Bike

The Archer D1x adds electronic shifting to any 1-by drivetrain which opens a number of interesting possibilities.

www.singletracks.com

 

[ForkinGreat]

Only used Di2 on my roadie. Been absolutely faultless and great shifting for 5 years now .... aside from when I bent a FD cage somehow and munted a RD cage somehow, which was an expensive exercise.

Would definitely look at electronics on the mtb if the cost was more realistic. Wires are so last decade though. Why not the SRAM GX or whatever it is 'upgrade' option?

SRAM? Bauke Mollema says No

https://twitter.com/i/web/status/1134825335567110144

Rohan Dennis is so off brand he’s on a different brand

“F*****g SRAM,” yelled Bauke Mollema, midway through the 2019 Giro d’Italia, as his SRAM equipped bike failed to comply with a simple gear change. Not the strong brand message SRAM are looking for,…

road-theory.com

 

[Asininedrivel]

GX generally is passable in 11sp, shite in eagle. And not an option in 11sp wireless is it?
Planning to stay 11sp.
Cheers for the feedback though. It’s pretty attractive if the shifting is bang on.

Yeah AXS is just 12 speed. It's a great upgrade imo, but if you need a 12 speed cassette too the cost is going to start getting up there and probably not worth it.

The way the derailleur "corrects" itself after impacts and realigns itself is very cool though. It's probably self-aware.

 

[Tubbsy]

Have you looked at the wireless shift kit thing that you connect the derailleur cable to? Someone on here has it I think... Looks a bit clunky but might be a decent middle ground if you don't want to go to GX AXS.

The Archer D1x Trail Can Add Electronic Shifting to Any Bike

The Archer D1x adds electronic shifting to any 1-by drivetrain which opens a number of interesting possibilities.

www.singletracks.com

From memory @FatMuz has one of these and likes it.

 

[creaky]

GX generally is passable in 11sp, shite in eagle.

You're referring to the shifting quality in the cable RD, yeah? I don't know that you can assume the servo driven one has the same issues.

 

[moorey]

Di2 has potential to be a bit finicky as it's fully wired so you also need to factor in both cost and complexity of wiring, junction box, battery etc. Not as simple as just the shifter and derailleur. On the road, for example, you typically use a battery that sits inside the seat post - that's obviously not going to be feasible with a dropper, so something you'll have to investigate also.

Have you looked at the wireless shift kit thing that you connect the derailleur cable to? Someone on here has it I think... Looks a bit clunky but might be a decent middle ground if you don't want to go to GX AXS.

The Archer D1x Trail Can Add Electronic Shifting to Any Bike

The Archer D1x adds electronic shifting to any 1-by drivetrain which opens a number of interesting possibilities.

www.singletracks.com

Not keen on the archer.
Shows my nativity that I assumed I could just bolt the di2 on and ride away.

 

[moorey]

You're referring to the shifting quality in the cable RD, yeah? I don't know that you can assume the servo driven one has the same issues.

Just more that the GX mech seems pretty flimsy and wobbly based on mates running the Eagle.

 

[moorey]

Yeah AXS is just 12 speed. It's a great upgrade imo, but if you need a 12 speed cassette too the cost is going to start getting up there and probably not worth it.

The way the derailleur "corrects" itself after impacts and realigns itself is very cool though. It's probably self-aware.

Can I get one for my mouth?

 

[leitch]

Not keen on the archer.
Shows my nativity that I assumed I could just bolt the di2 on and ride away.

I'm curious about the shifting issues on the Revel, though. What are the problems you're having?

The cable run looks pretty smooth which is more important than pure length in many ways. The loop under the BB shouldn't really matter unless there's not enough slack for the suspension compression.

 

[moorey]

I'm curious about the shifting issues on the Revel, though. What are the problems you're having?

The cable run looks pretty smooth which is more important than pure length in many ways. The loop under the BB shouldn't really matter unless there's not enough slack for the suspension compression.

It’s long, and needs a long loop under the shell to allow suspension growth. It also clamps where it comes out of down tube to stop it pulling through as suspension moves. I clamp it as lightly as possible, but I suspect it still restricts the cable slightly. It’s all exacerbated by the additional clutch pressure.
I just picked up an SLX shifter off @northvanguy. Was planned for wife’s bike, but I hear the shifting action is lighter without multishift, so I might try. I’ve also got an XTR I could try…but bar mount with his non compatible brakes is a bit ewwww. Oh, the vanity.

 

[beeb]

I’ve also got an XTR I could try…but bar mount with his non compatible brakes is a bit ewwww. Oh, the vanity.

I feel your pain!

 

[leitch]

Fair enough, was just curious as my Rocky runs an identical set up (cable crosses headtube, exits down tube, loop under bb) and I've found it to be good from a shifting perspective. I spent a bit of time with the shock out cycling the linkage to get the length as short as possible while still allowing free suspension movement, but haven't had any issues since. And that's with rubbish 12sp GX. Maybe the solution is less clutch tension and an STFU kit.

 

[frenchman]

Your cable routing is shit. Fix that and you won't have to replace your cable so often. The drag is coming from a too small a radius on the outer cable. Put the cable in and cycle the suspension, then you'll see the amount you need.

 

[moorey]

Your cable routing is shit. Fix that and you won't have to replace your cable so often. The drag is coming from a too small a radius on the outer cable. Put the cable in and cycle the suspension, then you'll see the amount you need.

Nope. Cabling is correct. Just too many bends, made worse by a couple of other small factors. Death by 1000 cuts.
I didn’t like the internal routing on his old Kona so I went rogue. It really isn’t an option on this bike.

 

[ForkinGreat]

Nope. Cabling is correct. Just too many bends, made worse by a couple of other small factors. Death by 1000 cuts.
I didn’t like the internal routing on his old Kona so I went rogue. It really isn’t an option on this bike.

pic of current frame?

 

[moorey]

pic of current frame?

loop under shell needs to essentially mirror the chainring. It isn’t too short under full compression.

 

[frenchman]

Nope. Cabling is correct. Just too many bends, made worse by a couple of other small factors. Death by 1000 cuts.
I didn’t like the internal routing on his old Kona so I went rogue. It really isn’t an option on this bike.

Your rear mounting to the derailleur looks to be wrong.

This should give you some indication of the correct length of cable for the radius you require. Radius is measured from the hanger hole to the frame cable exit. This only applies to shimano outer OT-RS900. If you have a different one the length required is longer.