DHX5 leaking air
- Thread starter mike-
- Start date
Fat_Ride
Likes Bikes and Dirt
Do an air sleeve service...
Still leaking, then look at getting the dampner seal replaced!
check out:
http://service.foxracingshox.com
Still leaking, then look at getting the dampner seal replaced!
check out:
http://service.foxracingshox.com
Last edited:
Fat_Ride
Likes Bikes and Dirt
Meaning the reliability of their seals is terrible.
mike-
Likes Bikes and Dirt
C'mon here people let's be nice to the Fox shock, it goes well even with no air in it.
It leaked before I sent it to get pushed (with TF Tuned), then was fine for about 2 months, then leaky leaky again.
TF Tuned said to send it back for another service.... Which is exactly what I expected them to say, but frankly, ~$400 for another leaky shock ain't worth it.
So I was wondering what other suggestions people had?
It leaked before I sent it to get pushed (with TF Tuned), then was fine for about 2 months, then leaky leaky again.
TF Tuned said to send it back for another service.... Which is exactly what I expected them to say, but frankly, ~$400 for another leaky shock ain't worth it.
So I was wondering what other suggestions people had?
Fat_Ride
Likes Bikes and Dirt
Firstly I'd suggest talking to Dirtworks to see if they're going to warrant any other Push Tuning work, if not, which is what I'd suspect, i'd take it to your LBS and have them either service your shock or send it to Netti to get the work done.
Before you do any of that though have a quick look at the simple things... Check your air valve is in good condition and the core is tight. If that's ok, you could take the air can off and see if you can see any issue with the air sleeve seals.
You can also just pump the shock up, put it in water and see where the water is leaking from.
Jesus $400 dollars for a service?!
Just get a new damper shaft seal and an air can service kit and do it yourself. The air can seal is easy, though I've never done the damper seal it can't be too hard.
mike-
Likes Bikes and Dirt
$400 was for pushing, service, and postage.
So a service is probably less.
Core is tight.
Vavle looks good.
Had it in water, and it doesn't bubble (I presumed the shock needs to be compressed or have really really high pressure to leak??)
All these I already checked as an easy fix.
So a service is probably less.
Core is tight.
Vavle looks good.
Had it in water, and it doesn't bubble (I presumed the shock needs to be compressed or have really really high pressure to leak??)
All these I already checked as an easy fix.
I assume that the shock is a DHX 5.0 coil because Tim Flooks doesn't sevice DHX Airs to my knowledge.
In which case there are only 2 ways the air can go, into the oil or out around the air valve and end cap.
If it is escaping into the oil then your shock will be inconsistant and slurp. In that case it needs to be rebuilt.
If it is leaking around the valve or end cap and you cannot see exactly where in a bucket of water, put the shock in your bike with the blue dial removed and the valve cap off, pump it up to about 250psi, spray thick soapy water over the end of the reservoir and compress the shock and watch for bubbles.
You may need to get someone to help you or take the spring off to make it easier.
Another option is that the shock is fine and your pump is dodgy. It can't hurt to try someone elses pump.
In which case there are only 2 ways the air can go, into the oil or out around the air valve and end cap.
If it is escaping into the oil then your shock will be inconsistant and slurp. In that case it needs to be rebuilt.
If it is leaking around the valve or end cap and you cannot see exactly where in a bucket of water, put the shock in your bike with the blue dial removed and the valve cap off, pump it up to about 250psi, spray thick soapy water over the end of the reservoir and compress the shock and watch for bubbles.
You may need to get someone to help you or take the spring off to make it easier.
Another option is that the shock is fine and your pump is dodgy. It can't hurt to try someone elses pump.
udi
swiss cheese
Yeah nice one dilzy, I'm pretty sure mike- is talking about a coil shock too. FYI, I've been running DHX-Air's with great success in DH bikes for the last two years, the stuck down issues were corrected from 07 onwards with new seals. The main cause is lack of lubrication in the air chamber, which 95% of owners pay no attention to. For giggles, I've seen more blown coil shocks over the time I've run these.
Anyway my first question to mike- would be, how do you know it's leaking? A loss of pressure when attaching the pump is perfectly normal, as the pump needs to fill; and the amount will vary from pump to pump. Like Tech-DW says, the air can only go two ways - and in many years of running DHX's (coil and air) I've never seen those two seal sets go bad (the IFP o-rings and valve + reservoir endcap o-rings).
I'd make sure it's actually leaking before doing anything, and then replace (one at a time, in this order) the schrader valve core, the valve's external o-ring, the reservoir endcap's o-rings, and if all that fails... look at the IFP. As suggested already, changing the IFP o-rings will require a shock rebleed.
Anyway my first question to mike- would be, how do you know it's leaking? A loss of pressure when attaching the pump is perfectly normal, as the pump needs to fill; and the amount will vary from pump to pump. Like Tech-DW says, the air can only go two ways - and in many years of running DHX's (coil and air) I've never seen those two seal sets go bad (the IFP o-rings and valve + reservoir endcap o-rings).
I'd make sure it's actually leaking before doing anything, and then replace (one at a time, in this order) the schrader valve core, the valve's external o-ring, the reservoir endcap's o-rings, and if all that fails... look at the IFP. As suggested already, changing the IFP o-rings will require a shock rebleed.
like i said we know its leaking because the air pressure drops over time, i have the same shock as mike and mines starting to develop an air loss problem too, we pump it up to just over 100psi and after a few rides mikes is down at 0psi and mines at about 90psi, ive used many shock pumps on mine and it gets the same reading, and it cant be mikes shock pump because hes added 100psi about 5 or so times now and the shock probably wont work too well on 500psi
DownhillerDeano
Doesn't want a custom title!
mike-
Likes Bikes and Dirt
Yes, DHX5 coil.
Second question, to be honest, I can't say 100% it's leaking, but I know air don't just grow legs and walk away.
Main reason I know it doesn't have air in it, is because a shock at like 110psi feels alot different to when mine has none.
I've used a few different pumps, each did the same thing. Good for a few runs, then start feeling that lack of air shock.
Fat_Ride
Likes Bikes and Dirt
toodles
Wheel size expert
Well there is only going to go one of two ways - into the damper (which won't cause a lower pressure reading at the valve), or out of the reservoir to atmosphere.
If it's getting into the oil, your shock will sound squishy, you'll have inconsistent damping and possibly an oil leak.
More likely, it's escaping the reservoir to atmosphere. In that case, depressurise the shock, take the blue knob off with an allen key and clamp the reservoir in a 31.8 stem. Undo the valve cap and replace the o-ring (local seal shop should have no worries with that one). It may be worth replacing the shraeder valve as well in case that's your problem.
Chuck it all back together and give it a try. Won't require a re-bleed unless you really arse it up. If there's a lot of oil under the valve cap, your IFP seal is probably cactus. Last time I replaced one of those it cost like 55cents.
If it's getting into the oil, your shock will sound squishy, you'll have inconsistent damping and possibly an oil leak.
More likely, it's escaping the reservoir to atmosphere. In that case, depressurise the shock, take the blue knob off with an allen key and clamp the reservoir in a 31.8 stem. Undo the valve cap and replace the o-ring (local seal shop should have no worries with that one). It may be worth replacing the shraeder valve as well in case that's your problem.
Chuck it all back together and give it a try. Won't require a re-bleed unless you really arse it up. If there's a lot of oil under the valve cap, your IFP seal is probably cactus. Last time I replaced one of those it cost like 55cents.