Confessions from the fuckwits

pink poodle

気が狂っている男
Ahhhhh to be so poor. I would have paid someone else to do it...then stooges them on the final payments over some small technicality, using my infinite resources to drive them put of business. Then picked up their business at liquidation and phoenixed it back to profitability and sale!
 

moorey

call me Mia
Had one more crack at the 12sp derailleur on Felix’s 11sp drivetrain earlier in the week. Felix had a cold and Covid test the other day, so it was first chance to test it tonight before KOB.
New inner/outer, new chain with 2 more links (felt it was a tiny bit short last failed attempt), fresh cassette.
Shifts up perfectly, just constantly a little hesitant to drop down on the lower gears. Kids have race tomorrow so I wasn’t prepared to have it not quite right.

Dug the 11sp mech out of the box, set it up, shifting feels perfect in top few gears then deteriorates in lower gears. Also, having to use way too much B screw to get it into the 42t of the new 9-42. Screwed right in, barely clears, shifting atrociously.

Scratches head, fucks around a few more times. It’s just looking all wrong with so much B screw. The 9t is not getting substantial wrap. Felix would destroy that in no time.

Looks again….wait….DEORE? I don’t have any deore 11sp?

In the dim light, I’d grabbed a deore 10sp derailleur, and tried to rush the job. Didn’t even notice. No wonder it didn’t have capacity, and shifting was shite as it moved up cassette.

Found the M8000, fitted, surprise surprise, perfect shifting. It’s probably the best it’s ever shifted now it’s back to a 42t rather than the 46.

Trying to rush turned a 15 minute job into a 90 minute job. I’m a true fuckwit.
 

teK--

Eats Squid
Had one more crack at the 12sp derailleur on Felix’s 11sp drivetrain earlier in the week. Felix had a cold and Covid test the other day, so it was first chance to test it tonight before KOB.
New inner/outer, new chain with 2 more links (felt it was a tiny bit short last failed attempt), fresh cassette.
Shifts up perfectly, just constantly a little hesitant to drop down on the lower gears. Kids have race tomorrow so I wasn’t prepared to have it not quite right.

Dug the 11sp mech out of the box, set it up, shifting feels perfect in top few gears then deteriorates in lower gears. Also, having to use way too much B screw to get it into the 42t of the new 9-42. Screwed right in, barely clears, shifting atrociously.

Scratches head, fucks around a few more times. It’s just looking all wrong with so much B screw. The 9t is not getting substantial wrap. Felix would destroy that in no time.

Looks again….wait….DEORE? I don’t have any deore 11sp?

In the dim light, I’d grabbed a deore 10sp derailleur, and tried to rush the job. Didn’t even notice. No wonder it didn’t have capacity, and shifting was shite as it moved up cassette.

Found the M8000, fitted, surprise surprise, perfect shifting. It’s probably the best it’s ever shifted now it’s back to a 42t rather than the 46.

Trying to rush turned a 15 minute job into a 90 minute job. I’m a true fuckwit.
Would have been quicker just to go up the road and buy a new bike. Fuckwit.
 

beeb

Dr. Beebenson, PhD HA, ST, Offset (hons)
Did the old favourite just now and put the fork lowers on backwards while swapping airshafts in my Fox 36. Tipped the oil in and everything... :oops:

As a slight ego redeemer, I offer a handy tool recommendation:
I have one of these Stan's valve core removers, the external pointy bit does Schrader valve cores (ie: car tyres, and MTB air suspension valves), and the other end has an internal socket that does Presta valve cores (handy for trail-side swaps when they've gunged up but feel like they've been welded in and done up by the Hulk). Gotta say I've used this tool way more than I thought I would over the last few years. Highly recommend picking one up! (There is also plenty of other cheaper options than these ones too)

Reason I mention it, it's a lot easier to remove a valve-core than the whole air cap when doing a lowers service on an air fork.

 
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shiny

Go-go-gadget-wrist-thingy
Did the old favourite just now and put the fork lowers on backwards while swapping airshafts in my Fox 36. Tipped the oil in and everything... :oops:

As a slight ego redeemer, I offer a handy tool recommendation:
I have one of these Stan's valve core removers, the external pointy bit does Schrader valve cores (ie: car tyres, and MTB air suspension valves), and the other end has an internal socket that does Presta valve cores (handy for trail-side swaps when they've gunged up but feel like they've been welded in and done up by the Hulk. Gotta say I've used this tool way more than I thought I would over the last few years. Highly recommend picking one up! (There is also plenty of other cheaper options than these ones too)

Yup. I have one too. Had it for years and it gets a heap of use. Lots of similar ones out there as well. Definitely handy to have in the tool box.
 

teK--

Eats Squid
Did the old favourite just now and put the fork lowers on backwards while swapping airshafts in my Fox 36. Tipped the oil in and everything... :oops:

As a slight ego redeemer, I offer a handy tool recommendation:
I have one of these Stan's valve core removers, the external pointy bit does Schrader valve cores (ie: car tyres, and MTB air suspension valves), and the other end has an internal socket that does Presta valve cores (handy for trail-side swaps when they've gunged up but feel like they've been welded in and done up by the Hulk. Gotta say I've used this tool way more than I thought I would over the last few years. Highly recommend picking one up! (There is also plenty of other cheaper options than these ones too)

Yep great tool. Finally it wore out after 8 years
 

cammas

Seamstress
When you swap out your cranks a couple of weeks ago and do the “I don’t need to torque them up, that’s pretty tight” riding yesterday and my right foot felt like my cleats were loose, you know that floaty feeling. Decided to stop for a bite to eat and check my cleat and pedal, wiggle the pedal and the whole drive side crank arm moves. Tighten it up with the multi tool but couldn’t get enough leverage, was determined to complete the ride and not let this stop me. Had to stop every half hour to tighten it, ride completed and I’ve now checked, cleaned and torqued the crankset, which I should’ve done in the first place, what a f@ckwit.
 
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Oddjob

Merry fucking Xmas to you assholes
When you swap out your cranks a couple of weeks ago and do the “I don’t need to torque them up, that’s pretty tight” riding yesterday and my right foot felt like my cleats were loose, you know that floaty feeling. Decided to stop for a bite to eat and check my cleat and pedal, wiggle the pedal and the whole drive side crank arm moves. Tighten it up with the multi tool but couldn’t get enough leverage, was determined to complete the ride and not let this stop me. Had to stop every half hour to tighten it, ride completed and I’ve now checked, cleaned and torqued the crankset, which I should’ve done in the first place, what a f@ckwit.
Loctite works a treat as well.

Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk
 

mike14

Likes Bikes and Dirt
Trying to install a new 12 speed Shimano derailleur. For the life of me I cannot get it lined up with the cassette to allow full range of shifting. Think it's time to get a professional to sort it instead.

I'm ok at bike maintenance, but derailleur replacement always seems to go absolutely pear-shaped as soon as I get involved.
 

beeb

Dr. Beebenson, PhD HA, ST, Offset (hons)
Trying to install a new 12 speed Shimano derailleur. For the life of me I cannot get it lined up with the cassette to allow full range of shifting. Think it's time to get a professional to sort it instead.

I'm ok at bike maintenance, but derailleur replacement always seems to go absolutely pear-shaped as soon as I get involved.
Is there a particular end it won't go into?
 

mike14

Likes Bikes and Dirt
Is there a particular end it won't go into?
10, 11 and 12 all sound (and look) terrible when it tries to shift into them and the chain line looks way off, even winding the H screw all the way out it is still really misaligned.
 
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