Chain Lube

[RangaWal]

Thought this would have been discussed ad nauseum, but couldn't seem to find much.

I've previously used Bike Milk and Rock N Roll blue in my very limited experience, but keen to hear what other people use, or whether I should just stick to either of these.

Basic mountain biking only, but we live close to the beach, and I've noticed surface rust appearing on quite new bikes that weren't left out in the weather.

 

[wkkie]

Rock n roll gold. Better than the blue imho...

 

[mik_git]

Used finishline teflon for eons, now loving white lightning wax, works for me.

 

[moorey]

Rock n roll gold. Better than the blue imho...

This.

 

[slimjim1]

Squirt.

 

[Boom King]

Rock n roll gold. Better than the blue imho...

This.

These.

 

[smitho]

These.

What he also said.

Doesn’t hold up well when it’s wet though.


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[SummitFever]

I like Boeshield T-9. Some sort of paraffin wax in a solvent. Good for dry conditions. Doesn't pick up dirt. Chain's easy to clean.

 

[TheAzza]

Squirt or Boeshield.

I swore by squirt for a while, but got one shit batch that was too runny so jumped back on the Boeshield.


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[link1896]

The little black bottle of Skyn lube is the biz.

Oh shit, CHAIN lube.

White lightning "Clean ride". Best of the dry waxes in my experience. 1 drop per roller. Shits all over rock and roll gold IMHO, but this thread is going to return zero consensus after 30 posts, like all the others that have come before. We all have our preferences for:

Bikes
Tyres
Groupsets
Sexual partners
Chain lube
Suspension
Wheel size. Can we start a wheel size thread this Friday please?



One riders evil bike is another's huffy. Hopefully we can agree to disagree on this one.

Actually, we can all agree motor oil, wd40 and personal lubes are useless on chains.

 

[hifiandmtb]

Clean Ride FTW. On my second 1ltr bottle...

 

[Lazmo]

Chain Wax... the motorbike stuff.

Cheap, runs silently, does not give a rats about the wet, does not attract dirt and I'm touching wood as I type, has worked a treat for a few years now as I've less chain issues than ever. I usually pre heat the can so it's runny as hell when it goes on, and every coupla months I wash the chains in petrol, and de gunge the guide wheels every now and then too.

Plus I use it on my motorbikes too... bonus, bonus.

 

[nzhumpy]

Pro link Gold /thread

 

[born-again-biker]

50/50 loc-tite & grease. Farken magic.

 

[pink poodle]

Some sort of paraffin wax in a solvent

Aren't you worried about combustion in a high friction scenario?

 

[Tim_the_Clyde]

Pro link Gold /thread

This


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[Daniel Hale]

cook my chian in hot wax, its noisier but lasts longer, rear derailleur stays as clean as a whistle [as does the chian] & I am getting away with waxing every 300-400km or so, my chains are lasting slightly longer also; in the wet chain wipes dry

 

[John U]

Squirt

 

[Flow-Rider]

I have very little time for cleaning and lubing chains, every minute I waste on chains is a minute less on the trails and chain lubes end up costing more than a new chain in my case. I usually buy a product like Rock N Gold in bulk because it's cheap, squirt it on sparingly, wipe it clean and move on. That's another reason why I stuck with 2X 10 speed, I can buy 3 XT chains for a reasonable price.

 

[Oddjob]

What he also said.

Doesn’t hold up well when it’s wet though.


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+1 rock and roll blue is better for dusty or wet conditions.

Prolink is no good in dusty conditions.




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