AM Carbonda FM1001 - Black Betty
- Thread starter beeb
- Start date
birddog69
Likes Bikes and Dirt
Just read through this thread again. Does this mean it is a straight steerer tube? Are you using a fork with a tapered steerer? Thanks
beeb
Dr. Beebenson, PhD HA, ST, Offset (hons)
Yep, tapered steerer fork. It has clearance for through-headset cable routing if you don’t want a frame with ports in the sides of the downtube, but headset routing is icky so I just went with the standard setup.
beeb
Dr. Beebenson, PhD HA, ST, Offset (hons)
I think around $1500AUD delivered at the time. They don’t come with a shock or shock eyelet hardware though, so you need to factor that in.
beeb
Dr. Beebenson, PhD HA, ST, Offset (hons)
So I should actually put a ride-review up on this...
It really hits the travel sweet-spot for me for an "all-mountain"/aggressive trail bike. There's not so much squish that it feels doughy when trying to pump the terrain on descents, but there's enough travel that the square edges don't "sting" (like they can on a short-travel bike). The bike's kinematic is also pretty linear (with a slight regression near end-of-stroke), so it eats bumps better than it's travel bracket suggests. So far I haven't actually bottomed it out, so I'd say running an air-shock on this frame gives just enough progression for "reasonably" fast paced riding (ie: as quick as I dare but about 7-8/10ths the level of the more daring folk on here) on moderate trails. It'll still easily access most of the travel, but without feeling like you're pushing a doughy 150+mm bike around, maintaining a good but active feel around sag. It feels like it uses the linkage/shock to support the bike rather than relying of heaps of anti-squat (chain force). It makes the transition from smooth trail to rocks (much) less jarring than some bike's I've had previously (ie: Ripmo).
The only caveat I would say with the "all mountain" designation, it that only applies if your climbs are predominantly smooth trails or fireroads. If the shock pressure is where I want it for descents (and I've really had it in the sweet spot for descending the last couple of rides), the bike struggles on steep rocky/steppy climbs (I'm no wizard in this regard, but this bike definitely doesn't flatter what limited skills I do posess). While the suspension generally feels mildly active on climbs - it's not offensive and still accelerates well (on mild inclines) without bobbing (as long as your efforts spinning the cranks are something at least vaguely resembling circular) - but start going for out-of-saddle "power moves" trying to pop the front up over ledges, roots or rocks when you're already on a steeply upwards incline and that linear suspension doesn't have enough support in the mid/deep travel for such movements and tends to squat down and make the bike lean backwards (even when I've made a conscious effort to really get forward over the bars, it still bogs down and lifts the front).
I wouldn't it's lack of technical climbing prowess let it stop you buying the bike unless you really want/need techy climbing in your trail mix (if you do I'd strongly recommend the little brother FM936 which has much better support due to it's progressive but still tractiony kinematics and less travel), because otherwise it's been excellent fun, I really enjoy how it feels like the rear suspension just "gets out of the way" on descents. It lends the confidence for a moderate level rider like myself to ease off the brakes a bit more knowing the bike's unlikely to go all "bucking bronco" unless I pick a really stupid line. Frame feel is good to, errs towards the stiffer end of things in the back-end due to the boxy stays so there's not much lateral or twisting flex going on. Front triangle feels pretty much perfect. Just feels precise but without any jolting feedback like some carbon frames can have if the lay-up is too stiff.
Zero complaints about the carbon/build quality/hardware too. Minor niggles about awkward cable routing or cheap headset spacers disappear when you remember you've saved $3500-4000 compared to most "brand name" (still imported from China/Taiwan) carbon frames. Even though it's the unfashionable way to do it, I like that they placed the "heavy" end of the shock on the static side of the linkage - though I'm running a remote lockout which means I don't risk jamming my fingers in the chain/chainring while trying to flip a lever on the fly.
Oh, and one minor negative - the stock headset spacer & top-cap are not the greatest. Even if you opt for the non-headset routed cabling, the bearing spacer for the upper cup still has a cutout for the cabling. Said spacer and top-cap are cast aluminum, so don't exactly feel precision-made. I found with the cable cut-out positioned forward there was a slight knock in the front end, but when I readjusted things so it was sat at 90deg the problem was gone. TBH, I wish they'd just make the frame to take ZS44/56 cups, but there hasn't been any issues post (second) assembly. The headset bearings seem really good quality though fortunately (they look like the same manufacturer as the Works Components ones), so a headset probably worth a punt for $15USD or whatever they were. Worst case, even if you don't like it you then have samples of the bearing sizes/spacers/caps you need to source.
Overall - crazy good frame for the money. Would happily buy from Carbonda again if they make something else that tempts me in future.
It really hits the travel sweet-spot for me for an "all-mountain"/aggressive trail bike. There's not so much squish that it feels doughy when trying to pump the terrain on descents, but there's enough travel that the square edges don't "sting" (like they can on a short-travel bike). The bike's kinematic is also pretty linear (with a slight regression near end-of-stroke), so it eats bumps better than it's travel bracket suggests. So far I haven't actually bottomed it out, so I'd say running an air-shock on this frame gives just enough progression for "reasonably" fast paced riding (ie: as quick as I dare but about 7-8/10ths the level of the more daring folk on here) on moderate trails. It'll still easily access most of the travel, but without feeling like you're pushing a doughy 150+mm bike around, maintaining a good but active feel around sag. It feels like it uses the linkage/shock to support the bike rather than relying of heaps of anti-squat (chain force). It makes the transition from smooth trail to rocks (much) less jarring than some bike's I've had previously (ie: Ripmo).
The only caveat I would say with the "all mountain" designation, it that only applies if your climbs are predominantly smooth trails or fireroads. If the shock pressure is where I want it for descents (and I've really had it in the sweet spot for descending the last couple of rides), the bike struggles on steep rocky/steppy climbs (I'm no wizard in this regard, but this bike definitely doesn't flatter what limited skills I do posess). While the suspension generally feels mildly active on climbs - it's not offensive and still accelerates well (on mild inclines) without bobbing (as long as your efforts spinning the cranks are something at least vaguely resembling circular) - but start going for out-of-saddle "power moves" trying to pop the front up over ledges, roots or rocks when you're already on a steeply upwards incline and that linear suspension doesn't have enough support in the mid/deep travel for such movements and tends to squat down and make the bike lean backwards (even when I've made a conscious effort to really get forward over the bars, it still bogs down and lifts the front).
I wouldn't it's lack of technical climbing prowess let it stop you buying the bike unless you really want/need techy climbing in your trail mix (if you do I'd strongly recommend the little brother FM936 which has much better support due to it's progressive but still tractiony kinematics and less travel), because otherwise it's been excellent fun, I really enjoy how it feels like the rear suspension just "gets out of the way" on descents. It lends the confidence for a moderate level rider like myself to ease off the brakes a bit more knowing the bike's unlikely to go all "bucking bronco" unless I pick a really stupid line. Frame feel is good to, errs towards the stiffer end of things in the back-end due to the boxy stays so there's not much lateral or twisting flex going on. Front triangle feels pretty much perfect. Just feels precise but without any jolting feedback like some carbon frames can have if the lay-up is too stiff.
Zero complaints about the carbon/build quality/hardware too. Minor niggles about awkward cable routing or cheap headset spacers disappear when you remember you've saved $3500-4000 compared to most "brand name" (still imported from China/Taiwan) carbon frames. Even though it's the unfashionable way to do it, I like that they placed the "heavy" end of the shock on the static side of the linkage - though I'm running a remote lockout which means I don't risk jamming my fingers in the chain/chainring while trying to flip a lever on the fly.
Oh, and one minor negative - the stock headset spacer & top-cap are not the greatest. Even if you opt for the non-headset routed cabling, the bearing spacer for the upper cup still has a cutout for the cabling. Said spacer and top-cap are cast aluminum, so don't exactly feel precision-made. I found with the cable cut-out positioned forward there was a slight knock in the front end, but when I readjusted things so it was sat at 90deg the problem was gone. TBH, I wish they'd just make the frame to take ZS44/56 cups, but there hasn't been any issues post (second) assembly. The headset bearings seem really good quality though fortunately (they look like the same manufacturer as the Works Components ones), so a headset probably worth a punt for $15USD or whatever they were. Worst case, even if you don't like it you then have samples of the bearing sizes/spacers/caps you need to source.
Overall - crazy good frame for the money. Would happily buy from Carbonda again if they make something else that tempts me in future.
beeb
Dr. Beebenson, PhD HA, ST, Offset (hons)
Aren’t you lucky I have the fork out currently…
Not “bad” by any means, but not CNC machined bling either.
beeb
Dr. Beebenson, PhD HA, ST, Offset (hons)
link1896
Mr Greenfield
Pop out and clean up the bearing, often stamped/printed on the bearings outer race are the dimensions
beeb
Dr. Beebenson, PhD HA, ST, Offset (hons)
The upper bearing is marked SR|P16(⌀52x7x45°)|, no markings on the inner race, but the taper angle looks the same.
frenchman
Eats cheese. Sells crack.
beeb
Dr. Beebenson, PhD HA, ST, Offset (hons)
pink poodle
気が狂っている男
Head tube ID...
link1896
Mr Greenfield
The 52mm is the bearing OD.
ID will be 40mm.
The FSA no55 has the bits I believe. Covid brain disclaimer.
beeb
Dr. Beebenson, PhD HA, ST, Offset (hons)
Just for whatever it’s worth, I have no plan to buy another headset - was just saying it was a bit disappointing compared to my expectations (and the one that came with the FM936).
link1896
Mr Greenfield
Yep. Assumed as much, but after looking figured I’d comment so the next poor bastard can order one with their frame
pink poodle
気が狂っている男
beeb
Dr. Beebenson, PhD HA, ST, Offset (hons)
Cups are integrated, not going to be popping them out in a hurry.