Bike feels skittish

Linga

Likes Dirt
I have a 2011 Camber pro 26" and have a 140mm Rev up front.
This is it here....

http://www.rotorburn.com/forums/sho...velation-RLT-15mm-1-1-8-straight-steerer-SOLD

As I'm gaining confidence with it, I'm finding that it seems to hard.
I have set my sags and wound off all compression on the fork and yet twice last ride while cornering a bump caused the front to leave the ground as if there was no compliance in the fork.

Tomorrow I'm thinking of running a little more sag.
Is it possible that the rebound could be too strong?
 
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The Duckmeister

Has a juicy midrange
Could be too much rebound damping (too slow springing back). Try hitting a series of bumps in very quick succession; if it takes the first one OK then continues to compress on each sucessive one & not spring back between that's classic too much damping. Really rough guide, the higher the pressure in the spring, the more you need to wind the rebound up.

What's your sag setting? On a 140mm fork you want 35-42mm (25-30%).

Also check tyre pressure; having them too hard will cause you to bounce too.
 

Linga

Likes Dirt
Could be too much rebound damping (too slow springing back). Try hitting a series of bumps in very quick succession; if it takes the first one OK then continues to compress on each sucessive one & not spring back between that's classic too much damping. Really rough guide, the higher the pressure in the spring, the more you need to wind the rebound up.

What's your sag setting? On a 140mm fork you want 35-42mm (25-30%).

Also check tyre pressure; having them too hard will cause you to bounce too.
Thanks for that.

It doesn't seem to pack over bumps, unless it is happening almost immeadiately. It really feels as though it has a high speed compression lock out. Front has copliance until at speed and especially cranked over.

I run around 30psi front and rear.

I'm running 25% front sag and 20% rear. I'm going to take some air out tomorrow and then play with the rebound I suppose.
I have a 60mm stem I want to try but want the suspension sorted before I cramp myself a little.
 

beejay

Likes Dirt
It doesn't seem to pack over bumps, unless it is happening almost immeadiately. It really feels as though it has a high speed compression lock out. Front has copliance until at speed and especially cranked over.

I run around 30psi front and rear.

I'm running 25% front sag and 20% rear. I'm going to take some air out tomorrow and then play with the rebound I suppose.
25% sag should be good but I'd drop the front tyre pressure to around 26psi, should make a big difference to compliance.
Have you serviced the forks recently? Maybe the dust caps or bushings are binding when the bikes leaned over. Could need a lower leg service and some fresh suspension grease on the dust caps.
 

moorey

call me Mia
Maybe it's just me, but I've never found the love for the late model revs. I have 2014's in both rct3 and rlt, and have gone back to older dual air. To get them soft enough to ride nice, they blow through their travel, but to stop them bottoming out, they feel harsh. One could almost say they feel like fox forks :behindsofa:
Ill try some tokens one day. Until then, preferring the older ones.
+2 for a bit less air in the front tyre though. 25 max for me, usually a bit less than that.
 

MARKL

Eats Squid
+3 for less air in front tyre, they rarely puncture. I run 23-25psi front and I'm no vegan lightweight like Moorey.
 

merc-blue

Likes Bikes and Dirt
What fork and shock on the bike when were they last serviced (major overhauls) weight and full setup required at a bear minimum to start guessing. It could also be technique related.
 

fedor346

Likes Dirt
Thanks for that.

It doesn't seem to pack over bumps, unless it is happening almost immeadiately. It really feels as though it has a high speed compression lock out. Front has copliance until at speed and especially cranked over.

I run around 30psi front and rear.

I'm running 25% front sag and 20% rear. I'm going to take some air out tomorrow and then play with the rebound I suppose.
I have a 60mm stem I want to try but want the suspension sorted before I cramp myself a little.
I recon try 30% sag rear. Might feel more balanced after that. Also like others have said forks might need a full service.
cheers
Gav
 

driftking

Wheel size expert
Maybe it's just me, but I've never found the love for the late model revs. I have 2014's in both rct3 and rlt, and have gone back to older dual air. To get them soft enough to ride nice, they blow through their travel, but to stop them bottoming out, they feel harsh.One could almost say they feel like fox forks :behindsofa:
Ill try some tokens one day. Until then, preferring the older ones.
+2 for a bit less air in the front tyre though. 25 max for me, usually a bit less than that.

Not trying tokens? Maybe that's why you didn't have much success moorey? More tokens less external damping?


If you have tokens stick with a basic external adjustment setting and put them in, find one that's too soft and too hard, then tune with both of them till you find your happy spot, either too hard and less support or too soft with more support.
Keep tire pressure the same the entire time during testing.

Tune, write it down and ride.




OP, does the 2011 have tokens?
I had an issue with my 2011 boxxers where like moorey actually using the external adjustments made the fork harsh, yet it still blew though its travel too much, my ride felt very skittish at the front because of the high compressing I had to run. The reason? The shim stack.
Basically my understanding is that external HSC works as a threshold or preload for the shim stack so it doesn't actually stiffen up the entire stroke, what it does is just increase the pressure you need before it cracks open the shim stack, in my case to get the fork to sit up I had to run high compression making the fork very stiff and lack compliance on the smaller stuff, as soon as I hit something big enough though it would open the shim stack and blow through the travel. The solution is a shims tune. stiffening the shim stack and backing off the compression, this lets the threshold be lower allowing for compliance but with the support from the shim stack, keeping the fork compliant but supported.

In your case I would follow the advice of basic service and make sure to get the common issues out of the way, make sure they're not damaged or leaking or pressure lock anywhere etc.
If the fork is 100% functional but still having problems, id speak to rockshox and aftermarket tuners to see what they suggest.

I have no idea what your fork is like or the construction of it so I cant say what you should do.

Rebound could definitely be a cause, test that, but be careful you don't want to go OTB so adjust slowly don't just turn it to full slow.
One question though when you say you hit the bumps and it feels too stiff what travel is it getting? You might actually be running so little compression that the fork is running too deep into its travel making it feel harsher too.

Finally it could be body position, weight distribution.
First thing is to make sure the fork is functioning correct.
When setting sag make sure to bounce up and down a few time to release any friction is can throw off the setting.
Sag>rebound>compression.

good luck, sorry I can offer any real advice on the fork except for basic troubleshooting and contacting the pros.
 
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moorey

call me Mia
Not trying tokens? Maybe that's why you didn't have much success moorey? More tokens less external damping?

If you have tokens stick with a basic external adjustment setting and put them in, find one that's too soft and too hard, then tune with both of them till you find your happy spot, either too hard and less support or too soft with more support.
Keep tire pressure the same the entire time during testing.

Tune, write it down and ride.
They weren't available when I bought the forks, and just haven't got around to it since. Sold the rlt a couple of days ago, still got the rct3, but I can't see them feeling as nice as the dual airs.
 

JTmofo

XC Enthusiast
Tokens make a huge difference to the adjustability of the Pike RCT3 (not sure how they go on the Revs).
I was having issues getting into the plush part of travel without running too low pressure and bottoming out the fork. fired in a token, dropped fork pressure and now fork feels so plush.
For the cost of the Tokens, well worth a try imo.
 

mitchy_

Llama calmer
was also going to suggest tokens, you can drop the pressure and reduce bottoming out.

that said i had the opposite problem, my rev's were too soft and dived under braking.
 

beejay

Likes Dirt
They weren't available when I bought the forks, and just haven't got around to it since. Sold the rlt a couple of days ago, still got the rct3, but I can't see them feeling as nice as the dual airs.
Same here. Tried a set of 2012 revs (over a couple of months) went back to my dual air 09/10 teams. Much nicer and consistent feel off the top thru the whole travel range.
 

Linga

Likes Dirt
Well I went out today and adjusted the sags again.
I ran it a little softer at 30% rear and dropped from 100psi in the front to 95psi.

I also changed my headstem to a 60mm. I kow I should do things one at a time but I was fairly confident that reducing from a 90mm to 60mm was going to be in the right direction. Turns out it was and the bike although feeling shorter, feels more controlable.

Right from the get go it felt the same. After about 8kms I changed it from 4 to hard, to hard all the way. This only increased the noise of the fork and the problem did not abate. fter anothe 3 km I turned it to full soft to make sure I could feel something (sorry I hadn't read all the new advice by then!) I must admit it rode better but still feeling like it was binding occasionally. To be honest it just feels pretty hard.

I'm not sure of the year of the fork... I think 2013? What are these tokens you speak of? I added the link to the fork I purchased from Stickso.

I'm going to pull the lowers off on tuesday and give it a little love but these things are pretty much new.

Still had a ripper of a ride though!
 

beejay

Likes Dirt
Shortening the stem shouldn't make a difference to the problem you described in the op, but will improve steering at higher speeds and steep terrain.

If your running the fork fully soft (no lockout) and it still feels harsh, then It sounds like the problem is one or all of;
>pressure is too high in the fork for your body weight/riding style,
>fork needs a service,
>fork has a mechanical failure of some kind(damper, rebound...etc)

Did you lower your tyre pressures as per previous suggestions?
 

moorey

call me Mia
Wait a gosh darn minute. I had in my mind these were 2014 solo air....the 140mm threw me. Are they dual air? If there a negative air valve in brake side lowers?
 

wavike

Likes Dirt
Remember you have a 140 travel fork on bike that is designed for 120. May throw the whole balance off (or may not).
 

The Duckmeister

Has a juicy midrange
I'm not sure of the year of the fork... I think 2013? What are these tokens you speak of? I added the link to the fork I purchased from Stickso.
Tokens are little plastic discs about 10mm thick that can be attached to the underside of the air-side cap. Adding tokens changes the volume of the air chamber, which then changes the compression ratio and spring rate. They're unlikely to be fitted to a 2013-model fork, I think they came in the year after. That said, they can easily be retro-fitted to older model forks with 32mm stanchions simply by replacing the the cap with a new one that allows the token stack to be threaded on.
 
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