Anyone got a DT Swiss 240/350 Microspline Rear Boost Hub? Please read...

Shredden

Knows his goats
I've got a 350 boost rear hub, then bought a microspline driver to replace the XD one, and having some issues - I think I might have been given the wrong end cap.

If anyone has one of these hubs and would be willing to take a quick measurement or two for me, I'd be really appreciative.

Please DM me on here or text on 0468 312 307.
 

itsajoke

Likes Dirt
Older DT hubs are not compatible with the MicroSpline freehubs. My 2016 240s wouldn’t go with the driver so I just got the latest 240. There is a thread on MTBR in the Roval wheels area. It features a rider that machined the new freehub to fit an older hub. Not advisable.
 

Shredden

Knows his goats
I'll describe what's going on as best I can:
  • I've got a 2019 Kona Process 153 with Boost Rear Spacing.
  • I bought new hubs and laced up some new wheels - the rear hub is a "DT Swiss 350 Boost DBCL".
    It came with an XD driver from here - https://www.hibike.com/dt-swiss-350-classic-mtb-rear-wheel-hub-12x148mm-boost-shimano-11-speed-hole-p539d9febf8e5fd8aa741f7b7b4746a5b
  • I sold the XD driver and end cap off that hub before lacing it up.
  • I purchased a Microspline Driver and end cap off a guy on FB, it was brand new never fitted. I am 90% sure this is genuine DT swiss part as it looks very legit and even the inner races of the bearings have DT Swiss written on them etc.
  • Laced up the wheels and fitted the new driver, all felt good spinning them in my hand.
  • When I put the wheel in the frame and tighten the axle up, the freehub binds up - the inner surface of the freehub is rubbing on the hub shell (pic attached of the wear on the hub shell from turning it a few times with the axle tightened).
  • Here's where it gets weirder...
  • The overall length of the hub with the end cap on is around 147.something mm, which is in the right ballpark I guess..
  • However - the end of the hub axle doesn't seat fully against the lip on the end cap (attached a pic where you can see this). As a result, as the frame axle is tightened, the driver is getting pushed tighter and tighter against the hub shell (rather than just tightening up against each end cap and the hub axle.
So now I'm stuck.

I am 99% sure the hub is in fact boost sizing - I double checked the invoice from hi bike and I am fairly sure I checked the box when I received the hub too (this was a couple of months ago and box is long since gone).

Does anyone have any ideas? Bit lost on this one...
 

Attachments

Shredden

Knows his goats
I guess my main question is if anyone can measure the size of that lip for me.. As far as I can tell, if the lip was about 5mm wider all would be good.
 

ozzybmx

Níl aon tóin tinn mar do thóin tinn féin
So your total width is just over 147mm, I see what you mean by the space in the end cap, needed to have that inside lip 3-4mm deeper to touch the hub axle rather than crush the freehub.

FYI I ordered this exact hub and the microspline freehub from HiBike last Friday, but weeks away from receiving it yet.

Interesting... and may save me the same bullshit in the future.

Cheers.
 

Shredden

Knows his goats
Mines an Xd driver and looks a bit different so don’t think I’ll be any help
I think you still may be able to help - because the hub axle and the disk-side end cap is the same regardless of XD, MS or HG freehub, so the lip on the drive-side would have to be the same depth across all 3 possible drivers too, to keep the 148mm width consistent.. I think?
 

Jpez

cancelled Easter
I think you still may be able to help - because the hub axle and the disk-side end cap is the same regardless of XD, MS or HG freehub, so the lip on the drive-side would have to be the same depth across all 3 possible drivers too, to keep the 148mm width consistent.. I think?
369901
My verniers are at work but best I can estimate it’s about 6-7 mm. That’s the gap your little red arrow is pointing to.
 

Shredden

Knows his goats
My verniers are at work but best I can estimate it’s about 6-7 mm.
Thanks for that Jpez, interesting to see that. I'm surprised your one doesn't have a similar issue with binding up when the axle tightens given that there's a gap there. Hopefully someone comes along who knows what the reason for this is.
 

Nambra

Postmeridian
Hey @Shredden, it sounds like the aluminium sleeve that slides over the axle before you fit the freehub is too short. Perhaps the position of the inside bearing on the MS freehub is slightly further toward the outside, resulting in the freehub sitting closer to the hub shell and causing your clearance issue and the <148mm overall width.

If this is the case, I would suggest adding a shim between that sleeve and the bearing in the hub shell. If you have nothing to shim with, use an aluminium can - it is about 0.1mm thick so you can add 4 or 5 can-shims (or more) and test fit the freehub until you can tighten it without binding.
 

Mattyp

Likes Dirt
a mate was having this same issue, there was an easy solution, i think from memory he shimmed it edit: as per nambra's post.
 

bear the bear

Is a real bear
The reason it is binding is that the rear drive-side end cap has the step machined too far in for some variations of DT Swiss Hubs.
A small spacer on the end of the axle prior to installing the endcap will resolve this (I know as I had an issue with an older set of DT Swiss 240's when it tried converting).
 

Jpez

cancelled Easter
Thanks for that Jpez, interesting to see that. I'm surprised your one doesn't have a similar issue with binding up when the axle tightens given that there's a gap there. Hopefully someone comes along who knows what the reason for this is.
No problem. No binding for me at all. All factory spec no mods or changes except ratchet upgrade. Hopefully the shim solution works but that seems a bit iffy and shouldn’t need to be done on a decent hub.
 

goobags

Likes Dirt
Definitely could be an issue with that spacer. The end caps don’t need to apply force on the axle ends, they need to press on each inner bearing race and each spacer through the freehub and hub itself.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

The Duckmeister

Has stumpy thumbs, Speciaized are so weird
Hey @Shredden, it sounds like the aluminium sleeve that slides over the axle before you fit the freehub is too short. Perhaps the position of the inside bearing on the MS freehub is slightly further toward the outside, resulting in the freehub sitting closer to the hub shell and causing your clearance issue and the <148mm overall width.

If this is the case, I would suggest adding a shim between that sleeve and the bearing in the hub shell. If you have nothing to shim with, use an aluminium can - it is about 0.1mm thick so you can add 4 or 5 can-shims (or more) and test fit the freehub until you can tighten it without binding.
+1 to this. Binding between the freewheel body and hub shell is absolutely a too-short spacer not doing its job of separating them.
 
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