Carbonda FM936 carbon all-rounder

beeb

Dr. Beebenson, PhD HA, ST, Offset (hons)
How much is a Bunch of air? I only run exo casings, even on the big bike. But dare say my bunch of air may be different to your bunch of air.
Was thinking about this topic again yesterday @Mattyp - one other thing I forgot to mention, is there's a big difference in casing thickness & feel between a Rekon Race EXO and an EXO casing Aggressor. I only need to run the EXO casing Aggressor on the Sentinel and don't have the same issues as with the Rekon Race on this. Rekon Race is still a mint tyre, just built lighter (appropriate to its intentions) so moves around more accordingly.
 

beeb

Dr. Beebenson, PhD HA, ST, Offset (hons)
@beeb After reading your write up and waiting a bit I decided I want one of my own so I emailed Carbonda this morning....
This could get expensive :rolleyes:
Haha, yep - the frame is the easy bit - it's all the fruit attached where it gets spendy! :p
 

beeb

Dr. Beebenson, PhD HA, ST, Offset (hons)
Unless you have a spares stash….
I was quite lucky in that regard.

Must resist looking again.
I’ve ridden 184km this year. Fuck being sick sucks, that’s less then two weeks worth back in 2015.
I reckon that’d be about my total for the year also, but I don’t have a valid excuse! :oops:

Fingers crossed you start to mend up, and hopefully less/no lockdowns next year means we can all get a bit more consistent with our riding again.
 

beeb

Dr. Beebenson, PhD HA, ST, Offset (hons)
Evolutionary update today…

While I’ve been really enjoying riding this bike (it feels like a perfect jack of all trades), there has been a couple of minor gripes sticking in my craw…

Firstly was a lack of dropper travel - bear in mind I have been running 212mm droppers and flat saddles on previous bikes for a long while now, then with this build changed to a ducktail saddle and ‘only’ a 185mm dropper - and while the ducktail saddle had been great for climbing, it’s fair to say it noticeably reduced clearance to the, well... ‘dangly bits’ on descents. With only 100mm of rear suspension travel I want to be able to use every bit of “legspension" I can. Well, I sorted it today by installing my old Vecnum Nivo “Travel-fit” (adjustable) dropper, slightly shortened from 212mm to ~206mm travel, and topped it off with a flat Ergon saddle.

The second change was an quicker/easier solution. I’ve been feeling like I’ve been lacking a little braking grip in slow-speed descending tech (and for how I ride, slow speed abilities are important… :oops:). So I swapped out the Rekon Race for an Aggressor. Not sure how this’ll go for clearance at full G-out at speed (I think I’ve buzzed the Rekon Race on the stays a couple of times already despite having what looked like a bunch of clearance), but it (still) looks fine so it’ll just be ride and see!

384299


…and that’s it. This bike has really put the fun back into riding for me. Hopefully these couple of tweaks allow me to ease off the brakes a little more on descents, but it’s alread been firing well above its travel bracket - so this should just be icing on the cake.
 
Last edited:

zooks

Likes Dirt
So, ride review time. I've got about 4 decent rides on this thing so far. I wasn't really sure what to expect going in. I knew the geometry, and roughly what the kinematics were - but graphs don't always translate to trail manners - so I was equal parts eager and apprehensive to get this thing on the trails and find out how it rode - and most importantly, to learn if it had any faults or foibles. I guess my expectations were that it would ride somwhere between "acceptably" and "well", but with only 100mm out back that it would prioritise climbing and feel a little lacking in travel on rocky descents. I've ridden a mate's Giant Trance 29er (115mm rear travel) in the past, and it definitely felt a bit like that. It was fast and efficient, and a bit of a magic carpet given the shortish travel, but it was really easy to bottom out over sharper hits or from landing jumps/drops - so I was expecting similar with the Carbonda. Maybe a little more progression in the linkage, but wasn't sure if that would just make it ride rougher over minor trail chatter.

Well, the good news is - I was wrong. This thing does not feel like a 100mm travel bike. In fact, it doesn't even feel like an XC bike.

Even though it's 120f/100r travel, it feels more like a 140f/120r bike while riding. I think a lot of this sensation comes down to the geometry. With the slack head angle (for this travel range) and long reach it makes the bike feel really confident at speed. Atypically, I've kept the bars pretty narrow (~755mm wide) to keep the reactiveness of a short-travel/XC-ish bike, but the head angle allows a more trail-bike-like centered body mass positioning and smooth corner carving, plus having the confidence to stay loose and let the bike dance around under you through (straight-ish) rock gardens. It's such a perk not having to worry you're going to bury the front wheel in some minor hole and get thrown OTB. The only minor struggle I've been having with the amount of travel is in a long curving rockgarden with several steps mid corner (the second main Cressy rock garden for those that know the You Yangs trails). On my 150mm bike I can push the bike "through" the lips of the steps, which gives a bunch of confidence (both of keeping the bike level off the lip, and of finding good grip for the front wheel as it touches down again), but on this it's more of a challenge as the suspension is already fairly far into the travel so pre-loading/not getting bucked on the lips of the step is hard to time well. But that's it - that's my "list" of negatives. One rock garden I've always found awkward, is now slightly more awkward. Boo-hoo.

As for the positives? (Comparing to riding a longer travel bike) Well this thing feels like you've unlocked a cheat code on climbs. It's (mostly carbon fibre) build keeps the weight pretty trim which really helps contribute to it's enthusiastic climbing manner. Even in open mode, the suspension is adequately supportive - but it's more of a Horst-link feel where the support comes from the spring, than say - a DW-link bike, where the support comes from the anti-squat/chain force. I personally much prefer the Horst-like feel this bike has, predominantly because the suspension is much more active when climbing - and doesn't get all kickbacky when tackling square edge rocks, sharp roots or riding up braking bumps. So while it climbs acceptably well with the shock open, it's the other two modes where the bike really comes alive on the ascents. the middle 'Trail' mode is like a subtly modified 'Open' mode. It doesn't feel much different underfoot (or "under saddle" which might be a more relevant metric for most of my climbing) compared to Open mode, but it does subtly alter the balance of the bike. Whereas I like having the rear suspension setup ever-so-slightly-softer than the fork for descending, it can mean suffering through a slightly doughy feeling on climbs (on any bike). This is where I really enjoy the middle 'Trail' mode on this bike. It just subtly removes that imbalance on climbs, and makes the rear of the bike feel balanced to the fork (remembering that your weight bias shifts rearward on climbs due to the incline of the trail, so "balanced" on a climb is actually a significant shift forward it weight distribution terms). This is the mode i have the shock set for 99% of singletrack climbing. I also use it on flatter trails, but have noticed it doesn't work well on trails with lots of rollers or jumps as it can make the fork feel too soft as the suspension response isn't balanced front-to-rear if it’s not pointing uphill. But the real "icing on the cake" for climbing is the lockout mode. It's a strange feeling - the lockout is so stiff (it's a 430lb blow-off compared to a more typical 340lb "trail" oriented shock lockout) in a quick carpark bounce test the bike almost feels like a hardtail once it hits sag point. There is a couple of perks with this compared to riding an actual hardtail though. Firstly, because that 'platform' from the lockout only happens at the sag point of the shock, if you get into some techy/rocky climbs where the back wheel of a hardtail might get bounced, lose traction and spin out (or the rider losing momentum managing the slip) - because the rear suspension can extend back out from the sag point, the wheel still tracks the ground and (at least partial) traction is maintained. On the other extreme, if you're climbing and hit a 'square edge' while seated, the 430lb blow-off circuit just relieves and removes the harsh jolt an actual hardtail would transfer straight up your spine. This is the mode I use the other 1% of the time on singletrack climbs, and luckily having it remote actuated means I can just utilise it for the brief moments I want it, without having to leave it engaged for longer than I want (from reluctance to fumble around for the lever on the shock). This means I can really keep my legs in their happy cadence on sudden rocky pinches knowing I won't have the suspension get bogged down or hung up. It's the kind of thing where if it wasn't on a remote lever, I wouldn't bother with it - but having it all within reach of my left thumb - it's a quick flick to "click'n'climb", and just makes certain segments of trail so much easier. Having it there (feels like it) allows me to preserve some extra energy for later in the ride as I don’t have to dig into that “burst strength” reserve unless I fluff the line.

While I'd already taken it up and down hill on several rides before now, it wasn't until yesterday I got a chance to take it for a decent ride on flatter terrain as well. This kind of weaving/winding JRA singletrack is ironically often what I struggle with most. I often feel a out of balance, or like my body position is wrong or somesuch - but yesterday's ride revealed that this bike has a really comfortable, central body position on flat sections of trail. I even got to (accidentally) experience it's neutral handling manners a couple of times when I unexpectedly hit a few deep patches of soft sand. Typically with my other bikes on these same trails I've tended to feel the front-end (start to) wash out in these scenarios, but on this bike I'd say it was a pretty even affair. In reality, the front was winning the battle for traction if both wheels were slipping and it'd oversteer slightly, but that can be chalked up to the tyre combination of the DHR II up front and Rekon Race (XC semi-slick) out back. A more evenly spec’s tyre combo would've meant a more even two-wheeled drift (at a guess).

Overall, it's proving to be a really easy-to-live-with bike in pretty much all (my*) riding scenarios. I expected to be writing something along the lines of "decent for the price" in this part of the thread given the humble origins of the frame, but it's exceeded "decent" regardless of price bracket. It's a bloody excellent bike. It's got a nimbleness that belies it's 29" wheels - so with cheat-mode climbing, nippy handling and confident descending it's a real jack of all trades - and rather than "master of none", it's more like "master of most", with only chunkier rocks or direction changes through rocks being a challenge. Given I normally assess and review my bikes by thinking about all the things I don't like about them, it took me a while to work out how to write a review for this one given I'm almost entirely happy with it.

(*I'm not a double-black diamond type of rider. Australian "black diamond" trails are about my comfort zone, so blue trails with milder rock gardens and small jumps is about my limit. Hence me not needing "all the travel" of a big bike all the time, despite the fact they can still be a bunch of fun...)

A small side note for those looking at the bike with more pureblood XC intentions: how mine is setup with the 120mm fork and resultant trail-focused geometry - the front-end does wander quite a bit on steep climbs with loose gravel/fine gravel over hardpack. So while the back-end is a very capable ascender, if you're primarily focused on the ups, I'd consider sizing down a frame size (maybe even two sizes if you really like traditional XC geo) and running a 100mm fork to steepen things up a bit and get a bit more weight on the front wheel. For an all mountain/trail bike though, the 120mm fork is definitely the way to go, as it really lets you get off the brakes and carry some silly speed on the descents.

TL;DR. It's a ripper. Would buy again, 100% (although not in matte-black! It's a dust magnet and looks horrible when dirty! :p)
Amazing review, thank you for this!
 

beeb

Dr. Beebenson, PhD HA, ST, Offset (hons)
Time for a long term (for me) review on this thing. At a guesstimate I've probably got around 200km on it so far, mostly on blue or (mild) black diamond trails...

...and... ...I... ...friggen... ...love it. :)

This is oh so close to being one-bike solution for me. The more km's I put on it, the more I feel at home. Being relatively lightweight (for a trail bike) it does have some limitations on descents - in that rocky descents aren't a brakes-off affair like with a long-travel bike, but it's amazing what the geo gets you though. That's not to say it feels sketchy through rocks - it just doesn't have the travel to accommodate going full-bore through them. As an example, we had our first night-ride of the year a week or so back, and during our first night-run I messed up my line into a rock garden. Said rock garden is not extreme, but there's a definitely "smooth" line on the high line or a chunkier low line. I went in with the speed for the smooth line, but had accidentally aimed in the wrong direction. It was pretty punishing physically, but at no point did I feel like I was going to snag the front wheel in anything and get bucked or go OTB - which for a 120mm front/100mm rear travel bike is a ringing endorsement, especially given how hard my ankles were copping it on each rock.

I don't buy into the "downcountry" moniker, but the bike is definitely a massive genre-bender. It doesn't feel like (only) a 100mm bike, but it feels quicker (more light-footed) than the average 120mm bike. Even though it came about due to having a spare fork in the garage, I'm glad I spec'd the Fox 36 rather than a Fox 34 - For my weight bracket (~95kg kitted up) it just gives a sense of assuredness when I accidentally stray onto a bad line or jag the front wheel in something. It really helps the geometry to save me from myself.

However for me, it's the back-end of the bike that I like best. I've not had a bike with flex-stays before, or ridden any other bikes with flex-stays - but damn - I love them on this. I assumed the the bike would still feel comparable to a typical horst or VPP bike at the rear, which are typically quite laterally stiff (in my experience). But this bike is, interesting... It feels laterally stiff (as in, it tracks straight through rocks without the back getting kicked side-to-side), but under cornering load or heavy-gear out of saddle pedalling efforts the back end has some twist in it - and it really works well. I don't know if it's like that by design or it's just a happy accident (I assume the flex-stays could be designed to predominantly only flex in one direction if required), but bloody hell it makes cornering so good. It's not noodly or vague, but it feels like it has this slight "steering assist" mode that adds a tiny bit of rear steer into the overall handling mix. It benefits both loaded/bermy corners by letting the bike turn a bit harder and adding a springiness to corner-exit, and loose/off camber corners by finding a bit of extra traction. I think this added compliance in the rear triangle is why it feels like it has more travel than it does (it roughly feels like a 115mm travel bike to my mind).

Overall sizing is really good (for my tastes at least) too, with front/rear balance especially being near-perfect. Both front and rear are both long enough to provide a stable and confident descending feeling, but not so long that it's hard to move your weight around enough in dynamic situations. And a major perk for me is that both wheels are naturally quite evenly weighted when JRA while seated. It's the first bike I've felt confident in taking turns (on flat trails) while still resting on the saddle, even often in the loose granitic sands at You Yangs. With the narrow-ish (~745mm wide) bars it's still feels plenty "pointy" and responsive, but the front is just slack enough to let me tackle rougher features (if I think my body can handle the forces involved). I think for all-around trail riding it'd be too steep a head-angle to get properly playful with only a 100mm fork, but the 120mm is slack enough without being too slack.

I've had a few comments from various people about what appears like an imbalance of character with the front and rear tyres, but in reality they pair together really well. The DHR II front tyre is what makes the bike feel trail-bike capable, but the Rekon Race gives a feeling of peppiness when cranking the pedals. The rear can break away if you brake too hard (I've got a 180mm rotor on the way to try and regain a little modulation there), but cornering edge grip is surprisingly similar (given there's more weight on the rear-wheel when riding). In fact, they both break away (lose traction/slip) at a very similar point when cornering leant over. Given the granitic sand where I predominantly ride, minor front-end slips are quite common - and with this tyre combo typically just as the front starts to wash out, the back lets go in sympathy and you end up doing a nice two-wheel drift instead of just the front collapsing and having to ram a foot down onto the dirt (though I have still needed to do that once...).

Yep, some would prefer bike with a slacker head-angle, or burlier components - but for me it's good to have built a separate bike up for that type of heavier-duty riding (riding the same trails, but hitting rockier sections harder or the option to ride more technical/demanding lines). I did briefly try running this bike with a heavier-duty rear tyre (and casing), and while it was effective in being able to push harder through rocky terrain - it lost the nimble, poppy feeling this bike has in spades in its current spec. It also felt like while the bike could easily be pushed harder, my body couldn't - and would let me know with aching joints the next day. So I thought it best to keep this one true-to-form as the light and playful mile-muncher it naturally is, and leave the slacker angles and heavier build kit for another bike.

I'll be glad to have the other bike as a bit of variety when I feel like pushing a bit harder or riding some techier lines, but this feels like it'll be the bike I reach for 90% of the time. If something happened and my bikes got stolen, I'd build another one of these up without any hesitation.

The only thing I'm tempted to change in the future are to build up a set of lightweight wheels for it. These Nexties are enduro lay-up rims, so there's still a bit of rotational mass that could be shaved to make this thing even more stupidly-efficient (as if the "cheater switch" remote lock-out and lightweight rear tyre weren't already enough hey @fjohn860!?! :p). I'll have to start saving and see if I can string something together in future. ;)
 
Last edited:

beeb

Dr. Beebenson, PhD HA, ST, Offset (hons)
100% agree Beeb. Ordered mine the same day you posted about your beast, Mines set up 120 front & rear, I call it my cheat bike, feels too easy to ride.
Compliments my Optic perfectly
If you haven’t already, check all your frame hardware is tight - all mine came loose after a few rides. Been good since so far though. The FM1001 I bought was fine though, so maybe this was just a Friday arvo special… :p

PS: You should post a “Post Your Ride” thread too. ;)
 

shiny

Go-go-gadget-wrist-thingy
Interesting comments on the rear flex. The Commencal DH team have different types of seatstay bridges to tune rear ended flex. My first Ibis Mojo was known for a flexy rear but never noticed it and felt it was better on uphill switchbacks than my current Mojo but the stiffer rear certainly tracks better in the rough. Good to see the gamble paid off, great looking bike!
 

RastaRuss

Likes Dirt
If you haven’t already, check all your frame hardware is tight - all mine came loose after a few rides. Been good since so far though. The FM1001 I bought was fine though, so maybe this was just a Friday arvo special… :p

PS: You should post a “Post Your Ride” thread too. ;)
I always pull a frame apart & rebuild to spec. Surprised how cheese like the bolts are & as you say, a lot loose/no grease/loctite.
I‘m glad I ordered a full bolt & bearing kit.
Your original post came at a time I was trying to figure what internal organ I had to sell to by a Spur or Revolver.
The 936 is spot on as a trail bike & marathon stage bike,
 

beeb

Dr. Beebenson, PhD HA, ST, Offset (hons)
...I was trying to figure what internal organ I had to sell to by a Spur...
This was my feeling also what I was thinking when I ordered mine. ;)

I had read the bolts were pretty soft, so far so good with mine though. I really should order a spare set and some bearings for the future though...
 

RastaRuss

Likes Dirt
This was my feeling also what I was thinking when I ordered mine. ;)

I had read the bolts were pretty soft, so far so good with mine though. I really should order a spare set and some bearings for the future though...
Let me know if you run into trouble.
I somehow ended up with what I reckon is 2 lots of bolts, screw, spacers & bearings
 

beeb

Dr. Beebenson, PhD HA, ST, Offset (hons)
That looks really nice :)

What tyres are those?
Ta, it's pretty spiffy for a cheap Chinese frame.

Currently as I robbed the wheels off the other bike it has a WTB Judge 2.4 Soft compound/Tough casing front and WTB Trail Boss 2.4 Fast/Tough rear. They rode fine this arvo (the chunky side-lugs of the Judge were definitely appreciated in today's tacky/peeling off in chunks clay), but are a bit heavy for the intention of this bike. I think the front tyre is ~1400gr and the rear is ~1200gr.

Going to try a Trail Boss 2.25 Fast/Light front and Ranger 2.25 Fast/Light rear next, just waiting on them to arrive. Should still offer decent grip for my local trails (all clay and rocks, no loose gravel/loam) and save about 400gr of rotational mass per wheel.

Other spec changes from previous builds are a WolfTooth Resolve 200mm 31.6mm dropper (action feels beautiful, almost as impossibly smooth as a BikeYoke Revive but a touch tighter feeling and without the savage top-out thunk), and a Fabric Scoop "Flat" saddle.

Planned changes include wider bars. I remember @Jpez rode this bike way back and commented on how narrow they felt. I didn't really notice it at Youies, but did today on the more natural and random rocks at Mount Major. Didn't feel dangerous as such, just more twitchy than ideal.

Still descends better than any bike with 100mm rear travel has a right to. Good fun. :)
 
Top