Ohlins TTX2Air Vs. Cane Creek Double Barrel Kitsuma Air

shiny

Go-go-gadget-wrist-thingy
Pretty sure that you're all waaaay off the mark.

Going to kill a crow today, paint a moon on my forehead with it's blood and walk around with the bushings in my shoe as a cite the incantations of Ba'al.
Is there a sacred dance of the bushings as well? To appease the bike install Gods?
 

SummitFever

Eats Squid
I would measure the original shock and bushings as well. Your measurement pic looks like the vernier jaws are not square on the bushing. Also only the tips should be touching the part being measured. If the jaws are cocked its easy for something to measure over size.

Is the original shock easy to put in?
 

fjohn860

Alice in diaperland
EDIT: although if you think about it, taking 0.8 off both spacers means it will DEFINITELY fit :oops:
I can't believe no body has suggested the poor mans lathe. Chuck the spacer bush into a drill and then grab the drill with the vice, tape trigger on go.
Attack the other end with you abrasive of choice. We did this once at a rally service to correct some rose joint misalignment spacers, no lathe in the service van.
You'll remove that 0.8mm off of each spacer in record time! :p
 

Flow-Rider

Burner
I would double check the measurement on the frame and make sure the bracket isn't bent or the arms aren't unevenly parallel to each other. Then just hack into the bush to make it smaller.
 

Dales Cannon

lightbrain about 4pm
Staff member
Pretty sure that you're all waaaay off the mark.

Going to kill a crow today, paint a moon on my forehead with it's blood and walk around with the bushings in my shoe as a cite the incantations of Ba'al.
Onion whatsit, is that you? :)
 

johnny

I'll tells ya!
Staff member
I would measure the original shock and bushings as well. Your measurement pic looks like the vernier jaws are not square on the bushing. Also only the tips should be touching the part being measured. If the jaws are cocked its easy for something to measure over size.

Is the original shock easy to put in?
Jaws were square (I thought the same when I looked at the photo, so double checked) and length is the same when using tips of calipers.

But seems that we were both at fault. I screwed the initial measurement up - fuck knows how, but I did. It should have been 35mm. Even then, they sent me .16 of a mil more than I asked for. Bottom line is, the mistake that mattered was mine. I’ve rubbed it back with wet n dry and it’s in the frame. But it’s not straight enough for my liking. Few more rubs and it will be fine.
Pissed at myself that I could screw something so simple up, though.
 

Flow-Rider

Burner
Jaws were square (I thought the same when I looked at the photo, so double checked) and length is the same when using tips of calipers.

But seems that we were both at fault. I screwed the initial measurement up - fuck knows how, but I did. It should have been 35mm. Even then, they sent me .16 of a mil more than I asked for. Bottom line is, the mistake that mattered was mine. I’ve rubbed it back with wet n dry and it’s in the frame. But it’s not straight enough for my liking. Few more rubs and it will be fine.
Pissed at myself that I could screw something so simple up, though.
Maybe from the digital verniers, sometimes they don't zero properly. If I use them, I zero them and then open and close them twice to check that they zeroed properly.
 

johnny

I'll tells ya!
Staff member
Maybe from the digital verniers, sometimes they don't zero properly. If I use them, I zero them and then open and close them twice to check that they zeroed properly.
Honestly think something like that happened as I was as careful as I could possibly be, I still have the pics I took - one of the frame mount and one of the old shock.

391904
391905
 

SummitFever

Eats Squid
Jaws were square (I thought the same when I looked at the photo, so double checked) and length is the same when using tips of calipers.

But seems that we were both at fault. I screwed the initial measurement up - fuck knows how, but I did. It should have been 35mm. Even then, they sent me .16 of a mil more than I asked for. Bottom line is, the mistake that mattered was mine. I’ve rubbed it back with wet n dry and it’s in the frame. But it’s not straight enough for my liking. Few more rubs and it will be fine.
Pissed at myself that I could screw something so simple up, though.
Easy enough to do. Good thing you've got it sorted. Pity you couldn't just reuse the spacers from the original shock.
 

johnny

I'll tells ya!
Staff member
Easy enough to do. Good thing you've got it sorted. Pity you couldn't just reuse the spacers from the original shock.
IT's not the spacers that are the issue - I can use them from the original shock. It's the bushing that runs through the eyelet of the shock that needs to be reduced. The spacers on the Ohlins are multiples small spacers, so I can take the thinest off and it works, plus the spacers from the old RS fit onto the Ohlins as well. But the bushing is still too long to fit in the frame mounts.

Maybe bushing isn't the right terms - I'm referring to the tube that the bolt goes through, the one that the spacers slide over.

I don't have a tool to remove the old one from the RS shock that I took off, otherwise I'd have just used that instead.
 

johnny

I'll tells ya!
Staff member
Weird you'd need a tool. Should just push out.
That's what I thought too, but it's jammed in there solid (so I assumed I was supposed to use some sort of tool).

Maybe I need to give it a crack with some penetrant. I'd be much more comfortable using the axle pin and spacers from the old RS that was in there.
 

Litenbror

Eats Squid
That's what I thought too, but it's jammed in there solid (so I assumed I was supposed to use some sort of tool).

Maybe I need to give it a crack with some penetrant. I'd be much more comfortable using the axle pin and spacers from the old RS that was in there.
The right size bolt and a socket works for getting them out, kind of like a homemade bearing remover. Bring it round when you come to look at the frame and we can get it out.
 

johnny

I'll tells ya!
Staff member
I should be clearer, it's not the bushing, it's the axle pin that I want to pull out of the RS bushing/eyelet and put into the bushing/eyelet on the Ohlins.

I haven't properly scoped it all out yet, but the spacers go back and forth on each axle pin, so I assume that the OD is the same, and I know that the ID are both 8mm. I tried to get the axle pin out of the RS last night and it didn't budge.
 

Dales Cannon

lightbrain about 4pm
Staff member
I should be clearer, it's not the bushing, it's the axle pin that I want to pull out of the RS bushing/eyelet and put into the bushing/eyelet on the Ohlins.

I haven't properly scoped it all out yet, but the spacers go back and forth on each axle pin, so I assume that the OD is the same, and I know that the ID are both 8mm. I tried to get the axle pin out of the RS last night and it didn't budge.
Just grind 80.00mm off the new one. The other one should press out easily using a vice and socket, if it doesnt someone may have loctited the old one. No point damaging it or the shock, hack up the new one instead.
 

Litenbror

Eats Squid
I should be clearer, it's not the bushing, it's the axle pin that I want to pull out of the RS bushing/eyelet and put into the bushing/eyelet on the Ohlins.

I haven't properly scoped it all out yet, but the spacers go back and forth on each axle pin, so I assume that the OD is the same, and I know that the ID are both 8mm. I tried to get the axle pin out of the RS last night and it didn't budge.
Yep talking about the same thing. I had one on that duallie that's in the work stand that was the same. I pressed it out no troubles and no damage. The RS mounting system creates very tight hardware that, from what I've read and felt on the trail, restricts initial shock movement. The Fox hardware I have found to be much easier to work with and makes the initial stroke much smoother. Happy if you bring it round and we can get it out, you won't want to sell the hardware with the shock anyway.
 
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