Cardy George
Piercing rural members since 1981
You are correct, and if I had an answer I reckon I would still have been using the original drive train from 4 years ago. I will argue that waxing isn't any more or less effective at removing sinter from deep inside than squirt lubes are considering the tolerances involved.But what about the sinter as the bushings break down? If that sticks around you essentially have the same problem. If the contaminated lubricant around the bushings doesn't get flushed out somehow then you're no better off.
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I tried the boiling water once and it was a pain in the arse. Plus I couldn't guarantee that inside the links were free of water which wouldn't let the wax get on so I didn't bother again.At approximately 250km on MTB and 400km road, the chain will start to get noisy and need a rewax. Which consists of pouring or rinsing the chain in boiling water, then also during the rewax as the chain is 'swished' around in ~80-100°C melted wax, dirt and metallic pieces may be released and displaced from around the pins and bushes.
I have a basket in my wax pot to let all the crap sink to the bottom but not have the chains sit in it. Then when it's solidified I rip it out the pot and scrape off the bottom layer.